[Argennes]

hello everyone, this is my first BMW that I purchased in march 2021, I proceed to mod it almost 3 months later and haven't had any hiccups since. I've done all the oil changes myself since I've had it. ( every 5k miles). but in the last 2 months I've started taking it to the drag strip so I took it apon myself todo the oil early at just 4700miles and noticed very small metal shavings at the bottom of the oil pan. these last 2 months have been the first time I've actually pushed the car since I've owned it. now I do have the csf upgraded oil cooler and ran the car on Castrol Edge sae 0W-30. I've never pushed the car when not up to temp or close to. the car as of now has 26750+ miles. are these grounds for concern? or is this normal?

N55 M2

MOD LIST

VRSF Chargepipe
VRSF 5" FMIC
DINAN CAI
BMS Turbo Inlet
FTP Boostpipe
CSF Oil Cooler
Armytrix Full Exhuast with Decatted DP

BM3 Stage 2 (93oct)
Dinan Coilpack
NGK 97506 1step colder plugs

[///393]

Start doing used oil analysis from blackstone every change so you can monitor this with better data and maybe get a magnetic drain plug.

Get some scissors and cut your oil filter and inspect it as well.

Also consider moving up to a 5w40. Oh and stop drag racing it. It’s hard as hell on everything not just the engine. If you want to drag race, get an old F body Chevy or a Fox body Mustang and build them for the job.

[Argennes]

Thanks i appreciate the advice Wilson. As for the racing. They have mainly been 40 rolls. Im sure it doesnt make a difference, its still stressing the engine.

[chris719]

That looks bad... I don't know. Given the N55 propensity to eat rod bearings, I might want to have a look before things go sideways. This is definitely not normal. That is a ton of material.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by wilson kop

Start doing used oil analysis from blackstone every change so you can monitor this with better data and maybe get a magnetic drain plug.

Get some scissors and cut your oil filter and inspect it as well.

Also consider moving up to a 5w40. Oh and stop drag racing it. It’s hard as hell on everything not just the engine. If you want to drag race, get an old F body Chevy or a Fox body Mustang and build them for the job.

+1

Get a UOA, and inspect the oil filter.


If you want a magnetic drain bolt I highly recommend the Turner motorsport titanium magnetic drain bolt, I use one myself and here is the review I have on it: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1830240


In regards to oil, if its castrol edge 0w30, then that should be fine. edge 0w30 is a very good oil with a high pao count, and is overall quite stout.


I disagree on the racing comment. This engine and car should be able to handle all forms of racing just fine. But what is happening to OP is extremely abnormal.

Originally Posted by Argennes

Thanks i appreciate the advice Wilson. As for the racing. They have mainly been 40 rolls. Im sure it doesnt make a difference, its still stressing the engine.

Your engine should be fine even under racing conditions, what is happening to you is extremely abnormal. I do have a question, when did you install the oil cooler, was it recent?

Originally Posted by chris719

That looks bad... I don't know. Given the N55 propensity to eat rod bearings, I might want to have a look before things go sideways. This is definitely not normal. That is a ton of material.

+1

get a UOA to see what material that is.

[Argennes]

Originally Posted by F87source

+1

Get a UOA, and inspect the oil filter.


If you want a magnetic drain bolt I highly recommend the Turner motorsport titanium magnetic drain bolt, I use one myself and here is the review I have on it: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1830240


In regards to oil, if its castrol edge 0w30, then that should be fine. edge 0w30 is a very good oil with a high pao count, and is overall quite stout.


I disagree on the racing comment. This engine and car should be able to handle all forms of racing just fine. But what is happening to OP is extremely abnormal.




Your engine should be fine even under racing conditions, what is happening to you is extremely abnormal. I do have a question, when did you install the oil cooler, was it recent?



+1

get a UOA to see what material that is.

The CSF oil cooler has been on the cars since 11/2021. When i performed the oil change i switched over to Liqui Moly 5w30 Special Tec

[Argennes]

I was recently recommend Liqui Moly 5w40 synthoil Premium.
For better protection at the track. Any thoughts?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Argennes

I was recently recommend Liqui Moly 5w40 synthoil Premium.
For better protection at the track. Any thoughts?

No, liquimoly is only average oil at best - based on VOA and UOA analysis. Oils like Pennzoil platinum euro 5w40, motul excess gen 2 5w40, Castrol edge 0w40 and 0w30, and Valvoline euro 5w40 are way better options.

[Argennes]

I will stick to Castrol Edge since it was been running. I see you recommended ow40, they also have it in 5w40. What is better?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Argennes

I will stick to Castrol Edge since it was been running. I see you recommended ow40, they also have it in 5w40. What is better?

0w40, the edge 5w40 isn't particularly good.

[Argennes]

Originally Posted by F87source

+1

Get a UOA, and inspect the oil filter.


If you want a magnetic drain bolt I highly recommend the Turner motorsport titanium magnetic drain bolt, I use one myself and here is the review I have on it: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1830240


In regards to oil, if its castrol edge 0w30, then that should be fine. edge 0w30 is a very good oil with a high pao count, and is overall quite stout.


I disagree on the racing comment. This engine and car should be able to handle all forms of racing just fine. But what is happening to OP is extremely abnormal.




Your engine should be fine even under racing conditions, what is happening to you is extremely abnormal. I do have a question, when did you install the oil cooler, was it recent?



+1

get a UOA to see what material that is.

These are some images of the oil filter cut open, same size specs of metal that were in theboil

[chris719]

Your engine might be toast I’m sorry to say. I’m not a mechanic, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen that much metal and it been simple wear.

[Argennes]

Ill find out for sure in 1000miles when i do another oil change.

[chris719]

I hate to tell you but I don’t think you’re going to make 1000 miles. I’d probably drive this straight to a shop.

[///393]

Originally Posted by F87source

I disagree on the racing comment. This engine and car should be able to handle all forms of racing just fine. But what is happening to OP is extremely abnormal.

Engine can handle being caned on for sure. But I wouldn't trust hard launches at a prepped drag strip for long. Certainly not on drag radials or slicks. Sounds like a great recipe for finding out first hand what the weak link is and advancing wear on diff/axles if nothing else.

Engine isn't "toast" necessarily but this is abnormal and not good.

Interesting thought on the oil cooler install as the potential culprit here.

[Argennes]

Originally Posted by chris719

I hate to tell you but I don’t think you’re going to make 1000 miles. I’d probably drive this straight to a shop.

I dont want to jump to conclusions, so ill take my chances as see the oil at 1000miles

[Argennes]

Originally Posted by wilson kop

Engine can handle being caned on for sure. But I wouldn't trust hard launches at a prepped drag strip for long. Certainly not on drag radials or slicks. Sounds like a great recipe for finding out first hand what the weak link is and advancing wear on diff/axles if nothing else.

Engine isn't "toast" necessarily but this is abnormal and not good.

Interesting thought on the oil cooler install as the potential culprit here.

With the upgraded oil cooler it did require the car to use 7.5 quarts instead of 7. Which i did do so. I really cant think what could have caused it

[///393]

Originally Posted by Argennes

With the upgraded oil cooler it did require the car to use 7.5 quarts instead of 7. Which i did do so. I really cant think what could have caused it

I believe F87Source is potentially referencing metal shavings from the manufacturing process of the oil cooler itself being introduced to the oil system post install.

This is an interesting theory here for sure, but it's just a theory.

[Argennes]

Originally Posted by wilson kop

I believe F87Source is potentially referencing metal shavings from the manufacturing process of the oil cooler itself being introduced to the oil system post install.

This is an interesting theory here for sure, but it's just a theory.

Maybe so. Well see soon

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Argennes

These are some images of the oil filter cut open, same size specs of metal that were in theboil

In regards to the filter itself that amount of metal is not too uncommon (oil filters will always capture some amount of metal, its the large amount of fine glitter that is worrying in your case), I have seen this amount of metal all the time on other n55's.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by wilson kop

Engine can handle being caned on for sure. But I wouldn't trust hard launches at a prepped drag strip for long. Certainly not on drag radials or slicks. Sounds like a great recipe for finding out first hand what the weak link is and advancing wear on diff/axles if nothing else.

Engine isn't "toast" necessarily but this is abnormal and not good.

Interesting thought on the oil cooler install as the potential culprit here.

That would cause strain on the diff and rear axles, then the transmission and clutch or clutch packs, the engine should still be the last to take the worse of the beating.

Originally Posted by Argennes

With the upgraded oil cooler it did require the car to use 7.5 quarts instead of 7. Which i did do so. I really cant think what could have caused it

No, 7.5 quarts is the full system capacity, you only fill it to 7.5 quarts if the entire oil loop is empty. On the first oil change you would only add the extra volume since you removed the oil cooler, so likely 7-7.5 quarts and check the level. Subsequent oil changes are the stock 6.5 liters (no idea how many quarts that is), because you don't drain the oil cooler every time.

Originally Posted by wilson kop

I believe F87Source is potentially referencing metal shavings from the manufacturing process of the oil cooler itself being introduced to the oil system post install.

This is an interesting theory here for sure, but it's just a theory.

No, I am referring to if OP primed the oil system upon install of the oil cooler. Because I have seen alot of n55's blow up, sieze their rod bearings, or cause massive amounts of wear with alot of metal in their oil (and cause a failure soon after) just like op has seen, because they did not prime their oiling system after an OFHG job or any job that opens up the oiling loop and introduces an air pocket. N55's are well known to fail if you don't prime the oiling system after these types of jobs, and bmw even released a TSB about it. There is a possibility this is not the cause, but who really knows, it is always hard to diagnose someone else's car because there are so many unknown factors that are not disclosed.

Because in OP's case this looks exactly like that. So my question is when did you install the oil cooler, and was it primed?

[///393]

Originally Posted by F87source

That would cause strain on the diff and rear axles, then the transmission and clutch or clutch packs, the engine should still be the last to take the worse of the beating.

Never implied drag racing was the cause here.

Originally Posted by F87source

No, I am referring to if OP primed the oil system upon install of the oil cooler. Because I have seen alot of n55's blow up, sieze their rod bearings, or cause massive amounts of wear with alot of metal in their oil (and cause a failure soon after) just like op has seen, because they did not prime their oiling system after an OFHG job or any job that opens up the oiling loop and introduces an air pocket. N55's are well known to fail if you don't prime the oiling system after these types of jobs, and bmw even released a TSB about it. There is a possibility this is not the cause, but who really knows, it is always hard to diagnose someone else's car because there are so many unknown factors that are not disclosed.

Because in OP's case this looks exactly like that. So my question is when did you install the oil cooler, and was it primed?

Damn. Makes way more sense. Pretty sure I’ve seen you share that before but won’t be forgetting it again. That’s… real not good.