Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwracer12
Hey Guys! I'm new to the forum. I recently bought a 2017 M2 and took it to the track. I have been driving an E36 on track for years as an instructor.
My question pertains to ABS and if there is any way to "raise the threshold" with some coding before ABS is activated or possibly even disable it completely.
My E36 didn't have ABS and I was able to brake at the limit without locking the tires up. When I tried similar levels of braking in the M2, ABS engaged early and I felt like I had more pressure to give before losing traction.
I did go from stock pads to performance friction 08 pads just for the event and I'm running re-71r tires. Around 2.5 degrees of neg. camber up front and stock camber in rear
One of the guys I talked to said that the pad change may have made the ABS module think something was wrong because the deceleration rates changed so much from the stock pads for a given pedal pressure.
Is there a way to code the ABS to a higher pedal pressure or something similar to give more room to manually manage traction?
By the way, I'm driving on track with traction control completely disabled.
Thanks in advance!
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I have an M2 with PFC08 and I used MPSS as well as Cup2 tires. I never done timed laps in a car without ABS, so hard for me to compare driver best effort vs ABS.
But to fully disable ABS you need to basically disconnect 1 or 2 wheel speed sensors. ABS is one of the last systems still alive, even when steering angle, or yaw rate sensor failure causes stability or traction control to switch off.
Even with a single WSS disconnected, you'll likely still have Electronic Brake Force Distribution, which will limit pressure increase on the rear tires, in order to ensure the fronts lock first. This is why I suggest 2 WSS, one front and one rear.
I don't think there is a SW way to code it off, as it is heavily mandated legally.
P.S. I find that getting deep on the brakes once the weight transfers at 1/3 stroke apply for 0.5s or so leads to best ABS performance. You likely have tried this as well, just an observation. |
I tried disconnecting both front wss and as soon as I drove off I got a bunch of error messages and it went into limp mode. Do you mean that I should keep the sensor mounted to the hub and disconnect it from the connector under the wheel well, basically simulating a cut wire? Maybe something about keeping the sensor connected and zip tied back gives different results?