Quote:
Originally Posted by chief1richard
I'm getting ready to install Camber Plates and will get my M2 aligned when done. Do you change your Camber when you get to the Track, or run it as set for DD? If you change at the Track,are you saying you can just move it back to Street settings on Camber and be OK?
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Increasing camber by moving the upper mounting point of a MacPherson strut inboard via camber plates (GC, Vorshlag, Millway, etc) will also cause toe-out. This is because the strut is also angled rearward (castor). Simple trigonometry.
This is not necessarily a problem if the numbers coincidentally line up. Because if you run a small degree of toe in on your "street" camber setting, this will become neutral or slightly toe out as you adjust to your "track" camber setting.
A small amount of toe-in makes the car behave well and steer nicely on the street (reduces tramlining or wandering). Zero-toe or a small amount of toe-out improves steering response and turn-in respectively on the track. So it's a win-win.
The problem arises when the changes are not proportional. In my particular car, I move from -2.0deg street to -3.5deg track. To match this with my preferred toe settings, I need to accompany the camber change with 3/6ths of a turn inwards on each tie rod, otherwise the toe-out at -3.5deg camber for track is excessive.
It's a fair bit of screwing around so it depends on how serious you are. Unless you are prepared to do this, you are better off with just choosing a hybrid setting and sticking with it for street and track. -2.5deg and zero-toe is a good place to start. Shoulder wear will help you get the camber fine tuned. Steering feel will help you get the toe where you want it.