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Originally Posted by VTBoss302
If you haven't already, I strongly recommend installing stainless steel brake lines and/or making absolutely sure there is no air in the hydraulic system
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I've already been trying to get info on the ends so I can make my own. I have all the stuff, just need ends.
I'm also getting ready to flush the brake system again so if there are any bubbles they should get removed (doesn't feel like there are any, though).
Do you happen to have a link to bolt on SS brake lines? Kinda curious as to cost compared to making them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT
+1 Agree 100% with this description. I have tested all iterations of Yellow Pagids over the years including RSL. But I prefer PFC08 exactly because what you describe. They will brake the car equally well but the feel is very different, especially the initial bite.
The pedal really doesn't get stiffer but the different characteristic compared to the Pagids, with less force needed at the beginning, is a good feel IMHO
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Perfect! I was talking with my tuning guy yesterday and he was going to contact Pagid and play 20 questions with them but I'm thinking I'll give the PFC's a try. You're the second to mention them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT
I also have the R&T, curious to how many clicks you set them to?
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Up front I'm at 12 out and in the rear 10. It's more street oriented tuning for the initial install.
I'll be headed to Spring Mountain in April with Audi and will have an open track day on Friday. I plan on playing with settings then as I'll not have students and will have time to muck about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT
In connection with that, do you run square or staggered since that will affect the choice of clicks. Also a matter of taste and driving style of course. I run TrofeoR 265 front and 295 rear with 3-4 clicks in front and 6-7 at the back. I roughly have your alignment too. I've been at 3.2 or so but currently trying out 2.8 to see if I can ease the inner shoulder wear on the front tires. I felt a bit less front end bite with the lower setting but currently waiting to check out shoulder wear as I go. Planning to put on H&R sway bars in a few weeks to see if that will help shoulder wear.
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I'm running staggered: 9.5 & 10.5 x 19 Apex EC-7 wheels, Toyo R888R sneakers - 265 & 295
Keep me posted on what you find out. When I put the street stuff back on (wheels/pads) I noticed that my wear across the front is good with the exception that the inner shoulder is already showing to be more rounded than the outer shoulder so it's an indication of a bit more wear. Temps across the face of the tire were pretty consistent, though as mentioned in a previous post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT
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Well, if I could read Swedish I'd be ahead of the game.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT
Have you looked at my little DIY project, tire temperature thermal cameras measuring 16 spots over the tire width, live while driving with logging and video overlay with Harry's or Racechrono. Just around $100 a piece.
https://github.com/MagnusThome/RejsaRubberTrac |
VERY COOL!!!!
Now I need to get Harry's working (have NEVER been able to make that app work correctly). I'm familiar with IR sensing for temp - have a setup that reads both the clutches and the belt temperature in a CVT drivetrain in my off road truck. You can see the clutch sensors on the arm sitting between them and the belt sensor it peeking out at the middle top.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT
Yeah, the slightly bumpy/jumpy rear end is solved with the R&T, agree 100%. Very noticeable when breaking hard on uneven bumpy surfaces too.
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Good - I'm glad we're seeing similar results. The Ohlins definitely have improved things.