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      10-13-2018, 06:30 PM   #60
Endeav
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Drives: BRG G80 M3
Join Date: Apr 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasing Dreams View Post
@endeav were you able to put it on the dyno already?
Unfortunately not yet.

I've been trying to diagnose an odd issue that's preventing me from running the boost I'd like to run. I can run 22-21 psi flat, however the actual boost value tapers at the upper RPM and moves away from the targeted boost value as RPM increases. Initially I thought it was a simple fix - clearly a boost leak but I've checked the car for leaks and can't find any between the turbo and the throttle body. I've fully replaced the VRSF charge-pipes with FTP charge-pipes and nothing changed in my datalogs. My WGDC remains at around 85 - 95% in the JB4 log, and boost is off by about 1-2 PSI, especially in the upper RPM where WGDC creeps up slightly. Now, since nothing changed at all between swapping the charge pipes I'm basically 100% certain there isn't a leak between the turbo and throttle body (and my pressure test shows it). I've also pressure tested the intercooler by itself, and there's no leaks there as well.

I unfortunately can't reliably test the Intake Manifold to Fuel It PI Spacer to Cylinder Head connection to see if that's where the leak is. I will be getting the Phoenix Racing intake manifold with the PI injectors built in from BMS and getting that swapped. If that's where the leak is, I imagine that by removing the PI spacer I can probably get rid of the leak, or at minimum reduce the number of spots a leak could occur.

My WGDC has always been on the high side since I installed the turbo, so I'm almost wondering if I need a EWG arm adjustment. I'm wondering if maybe the EWG is set too "loose" and as a result isn't actually closing all the way despite my logs saying it is. The WGDC parameter is simply what the JB4 is outputting to the EWG, so for example, 100% may not actually correlate to a 100% closed WG, it just means the EWG arm has reached maxed travel. As such, if I tighten the EWG arm, even if its a couple revolutions on the adjustment nuts... it might actually fix my issue.

Anyone happen to have any ideas or suggestions? Does my EWG theory sound plausible?


Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
First, thanks so much for this thread and the info you've shared! I have some questions, as I am going to be heading down the same rabbit hole that you're in now, LOL!

I already have in my possession (not installed) the pure stage 2 turbo with GFB diverter & pure inlet. My car is currently running the VF stage 2 hex tune, whcih I've grown bored of...there's no top end.

Mods include: AA intercooler, ER charge & TIC pipes, Dinan intake / resonator delete & fabspeed sport cat. My goal is 500-600whp, strongly depending on reliability, and minimal complexity. In other words, I'll sacrifice whp for safe & reliable power. I also have an MPE (gen 1) that I'll be installing with the PS2.
From what I have read on many forums from people running bigger turbos on the N55, 500 wHP is incredibly reliable. Anything north of that is almost uncharted waters. There's only a handful of people running 550, 600+ wHP and unfortunately I don't think they've been around long enough to say its "reliable" just yet!

Not saying it isn't, but 500 neighborhood is definitely the sweet spot with current knowledge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
1) Is this the correct p/n for the n20 tmap? 13-62-7-585-493
The correct part number is 13-62-7-843-531!
Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
2) I am hoping to run either fuel-it or bmp port injection, with upgraded lpfp. I might also upgrade the HPFP if needed. I want to ONLY RUN 93 Octane PUMP FUEL for both stock fueling and PI kit. How come I don't see anyone else doing this? Are there some drawbacks that I am not aware of?
The big reason a lot of people don't run just solely pump fuel is actually quite simple. It's octane. You can throw as much fuel as you want at the car, but at the end of the day its octane that is going to keep you from getting to your power goals. With the stock fuel system, the M2 is fuel volume limited, however once that's upgraded, the M2 becomes octane limited. Unless you have insanely good 93 octane, I don't think you'd be able to push 500 wHP.

If you want to go straight fuel (no methanol) and push 500 wHP+, I'd venture to say you'd need access to ethanol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
3) (I might be ignorant with this, so excuse me in advance.) I don't want to run JB4, or JB4 PI fuel controller. I am led to believe that the split second PI fuel controller can be made to work with a custom flash tune. Is this correct? If so, can I assume that safety features will be available via tune, should the PI system malfunction?
The split second PI controller can work with flash tunes, correct. You flash the fuel map to the PI controller that your tuner creates for you and you get it dialed in just as you would the flash tune. The PI controller gets its RPM signal from one of the wires leading off the OBDII port.

The downside with this is there are no "safety features" like you would traditionally think. The car won't turn down the boost / timing should the PI fail. In fact, there really won't be any way to reliably see that the PI controller is actually functioning while you're driving the vehicle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
4) Is my AA intercooler going to cut it? I've been reading and despite AA's claims, it seems like it might not be up to the task. I have had great experiences with Evolution Racewerks, and I am strongly considering purchasing their intercooler. Thoughts?
Not 100% certain on this one. I can only comment with what I have personal experience with. I have the CSF intercooler and it's phenomenal!
Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
5) Based off of some experiences from other members here, I have purchased a set of NGK 97506 spark plugs. What's your experience with plugs?
I was running the OEM plugs for about 2 months with this PS2 turbo. After those two months I developed a misfire when I was WOT at 5000 RPM. I swapped the plugs to the 97506 and gapped them to 0.020" and haven't had any issues since.

Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
That's all I have for now, but more to follow. And I don't want to hijack your thread, so please take this offline via PM if need be
Don't feel like you're thread jacking. I'm sure a lot of people on this forum would benefit from this information being out there in the open!
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Last edited by Endeav; 10-13-2018 at 06:54 PM..
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