Quote:
Originally Posted by M_Six
Thanks, Dave. I was using single (center) autofocus and was trying to keep the center point on the plane. I was using AI Focus, but it was the first time and I probably kept re-pressing the shutter halfway to focus instead of letting the camera do the work (like the first time you use ABS brakes). Even so, the 55-250mm isn't the sharpest lens with a stock-still subject, so...
Next time I'll try the multi-point focus and see if I can set the points to cluster in near the center. Not sure if I can do that on a T1i body.
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Ok, single-point against BG with no contrast makes it much harder. You have to select based on the BG. My 7D has a quick toggle, but I'm not sure what you'll have to do with your Rebel. If there's no quick way to change, then staying with single-point is probably the best compromise, unless your camera has expanded single-point or a tight cluster of AF points near the single-point, then you might chose one of those and set it and leave it.
The AF will not track the subject when you release the shutter button. The purpose of releasing is to avoid it locking onto the BG instead of the subject. You just keep "bumping" it to to keep it on the subject and focus. With all AF points activated and a contrastless BG, then it's pretty safe to keep it pushed down most of the time, so long as one of the AF points is on the subject.
Oh, I thought you said nifty-fifty, not nifty-2-fifty. Ok, at least you had a good focal length. A Canon 70-200mm will give you a better IQ and better AF and you can use a 1.4x TC on that body without slowing the AF too much. Sorry, I thought that you were using a 50mm and cropping the hell out of it.
You seem to have good (high) shutter speed. When handholding out at 250mm and beyond, you need to keep the SS up over 1/1000-second for sharpness. What seems like OOF is often a little vibration blur. Of course, it could be OOF to, particularly when the distance is constantly changing. Faster lenses will allow the camera to AF faster.