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      05-21-2018, 07:28 PM   #37
Nezil
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Drives: LCI '18 6MT M2
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceedawg View Post
Nice write up. I'm hoping it wont take 3 hours though. Best way seems to take the FMIC out first and then take out the charge pipes.
I'd agree with that. I didn't do that for the charge pipe, but did for the boost, and then wondered why I didn't do that the first time!
Quote:
The passenger side charge pipe hardly anyone changes it appears.
I think the reason for this is that the factory part wouldn't crack... it's made of rubber, and though slightly smaller diameter, is not really a 'weak link'. Having said that, the FTP parts are so nice, I thought it was worth installing.
Quote:
I waited till I received the FMIC so that I can put CPs and FMIC all in at once. This is not a fun job to do twice!
I don't blame you, but I'll have done this three times by the time I get the FMIC in! I'm going to end up having to replace the bolts for the belly pan / stiffening plate. They're a torque and 90 degree tighten, and I can already feel that they don't tighten down the same way after being used 3 times.
Quote:
Did you use loc tight or white tape to prevent leaks ,was it necessary?
I put white plumbers tape on the two meth bungs and the vacuum pipe fitting. I'm not sure it was necessary, and I don't like the fact they they're not tapered threads, but I think it will be OK.
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2018 ///M2 LCI, LBB, 6MT...

Current Performance Mods:
CSF FMIC, ER CP, Fabspeed Cat, Aquamist WMI, GFB DV+, NGK 97506, BM3 (Stage 2 93 OTS), CDV delete, UCP, M2C/M3/M4 Strut Brace, M3/M4 Reinforcement Rings
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