[ceedawg]

Originally Posted by Nezil

I fitted the charge pipe a few days back, and the boost pipe this afternoon. I'd say they're about as difficult as each other to install. Getting the pipes of the FMIC isn't too difficult if you follow the suggestions in the ************* post above (cable ties and bits of card).

The factory charge pipe is a pain to actually get out of the engine bay. I removed the MAP sensor first, and then wiggled it out of the top of the engine bay, but I've heard of some people going the other direction. I think if I'd have taken the FMIC out, I'd probably have gone that way and it would have been easier.

Wiggling the FTP Throttle Body side of the Charge Pipe through was a bit of a pain, but actually fitting it up to the throttle body wasn't too difficult. I fitted the silicone section to the throttle body side first and clamped it down. Then I pushed the FMIC side into the silicone section at the same time as clipping on the FMIC input before bolting everything up.

The Boost pipe side started off fairly easy once I worked out a way to get cable ties etc. in to place to pull of the clip turbo outlet side. The pipe is able to rotate on the turbo outlet, and that helps because the sides of the clip you have to pull out are difficult to get to.

The FTP Boost pipe to turbo outlet was super easy to install, it pushes on really easy and clips in. It does feel a bit loose, but my logs don't show that it's leaking so I guess it's fine.

The issue with the boost pipe is that if you assume that the silicon coupling needs to be straight, as I did initially, and is shown in my photo above, it won't line up with the FMIC inlet at all. You need to put the silicon coupling at a slight angle downwards for both the machined FMIC inlet section and the turbo outlet section. Just like the throttle body side, I clamped the silicon coupling to the turbo outlet side first, then loosely fit the FMIC inlet connection into the silicon coupling before re-inserting the FMIC, clipping everything together and bolting it down.

I found that once you've clamped everything together it's a lot easier removing and re-installing if you need to, because the pipes and couplings are all in the correction orientation and clamped together. It's lining things up the first time that's the pain, and it really is quite a pain.

Each side took me about two hours, but that includes removing and re-installing the belly pan and FMIC each time. If I did it in one hit with an upgraded FMIC it would probably be 3 hours all in.

When my CSF FMIC finally arrives I'll have to go through a lot of the work again... At lease I know what I'm doing now!

Nice write up. I'm hoping it wont take 3 hours though. Best way seems to take the FMIC out first and then take out the charge pipes. I'm gona pull it down from the bottom. That will be my route. The passenger side charge pipe hardly anyone changes it appears. I waited till I received the FMIC so that I can put CPs and FMIC all in at once. This is not a fun job to do twice!

Did you use loc tight or white tape to prevent leaks ,was it necessary?