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Speaking from 7 years of track experience and some dabbling with autocross over the years…
Those front lower control arm bushings indicate that they can only add 0.5*, so they won’t get close to your goal of 3.0 degrees of camber. I believe stock is around 1 or 1.5 degrees.
For what you want to do, a camber plate is probably going to be the most accommodating to regular adjustment back and forth since you can easily see and mark it for a street vs track setting, but changes in camber will have some impact on toe. You may be better off with finding a good compromise and leaving it there. The arms will do the same thing, but likely with an even greater impact on toe since they’re inline with the steering rack.
Excess toe in or out is what kills tires on the street, not camber, so there shouldn’t be too much downside to camber plates with 2-2.5 degrees and something a bit closer to 0 toe than the stock setting. 3.0 is pretty aggressive and may not be necessary for your driving style.
FWIW, I’m running Ground control camber plates, which are not known to be the quietest option, but the impact on NVH wasn’t that noticeable. I started on the stock suspension with them and moved to Ohlins (which have been trouble free so far over two years, 20k miles, and a few dozen track days), with just a call to GC for a different spring perch.
Sounds like you haven’t run any events yet, so before you start modifying, consider getting out there and get a few events under your belt before you start changing things. You may find you prefer autocross over track days (or vice-versa), and you’ll probably want to prioritize setup changes differently between the two. Also, if you find you’re only doing a couple events per year, it may not be worth the compromises of changing out OEM parts and alignment.
For the track though, a good set of pads and a high temp fluid are probably worth it from day 1, especially if you aren’t sure what fluid is in the system currently. For autocross, just go sign up and send it.
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