Quote:
Originally Posted by ZM2
Yeah, I've always been tough on the brakes. It's where I make most of my time up on track vs other guys around me.
For background, I color shifted my stock blue brakes with PFC 08s on just their second day. No cooling mods at that point.
And, agreed on your thoughts regarding homebrew brake cooling mods, especially on street cars. That's why I only cut away some of the protection plates to point air into the center from the GT3 scoops: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...0&postcount=16
The scoops did help on my next outings, but I still would get fade so I moved to the AP's.
The AP's work great, but as I added power and more rubber I would get fade with the 1.11's after 20-25min on hot summer open lapping sessions when I was pushing it. If I backed off a lap, the pad fade would go away.
I've added more power since then and the 3.12s have still never faded on me, but I eventually need to get some AP's on the back to help out... |
Understood. The air deflector on the control can stay and is likely helpful,
but we would strongly suggest removing those modified dust shields.
Many people think about cooling in terms of airflow. What few consider is radiation, which is crucial at track temperatures. Those dust shields don't allow the heat to radiate away from the disc. Instead, they reflect the heat right back at the inner disc face, causing it to run at a higher temperature than the outside face. That temperature differential creates stress on the disc that tends to produce premature cracks, and could potentially have a big impact on any pad fade you're experiencing.
Again, we always recommend removing the dust shields. It's one of the first recommended steps in all of our install manuals. They hold the heat on the inner disc face and cook everything!