Quote:
Originally Posted by TTBear
Quote:
Originally Posted by aguy
Get a leaf blower to dry the rims/brakes after washing (that one's probably overkill but it works), avoid acidic wheel cleaners, always ride the brakes for 30 feet or so immediately after washing/drying and defiantly move it the next day because the pads will still stick a bit.
I haven't had them not unseize with some throttle but I did have a nice brake pad imprint on my rotors for quite awhile and a ruined morning when I learned that lesson:
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Thanks for your input. I do that already - I use a MetroVac blower (heated, filtered air), and if it's winter and I have to go to a car wash, I'll make sure that I use one with a blower.
I ceramic coat my wheels so I never have to use anything other than regular car wash solution and a gentle brush.
I am somewhat in doubt that it is because of water ingress (although I guess it could still be?), because the time that it locked up the worst, occurred days after I had washed the car, and it had been driven every day, giving it ample opportunity to dry out. On that occasion, the brake stuck so badly that I flatspotted the tire trying to get it to release! (Which it didn't, necessitating a flat bed trip to the dealer). |
The dealer did not keep and try to replicate the condition?
I imagine something is wrong with the vehicle speed controller, tilt sensor, wheel speed sensors, or collision warning system if you are getting warning lights. It seems to me the system thinks the brake should be applied and with the rest of the wheels moving when the computers are thinking the car should be stopped, there is some malfunction. I would imagine the dealer can diagnose these components via the computer.