Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2
Are you running ohlins r&t? Do they fit the oem top hats?
I have a set of tc kline plates with the oem strut adapter on them, so I was curious if the ohlins would mount up.
Thanks.
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Yes, using the R&T setup. Can't tell if you they use the OEM top hats or not - I have Ground Control camber plates and I believe all the upper spring stuff was changed with the Ohlins kit. Can't hold me to that though, as I didn't do the work. 95% of the time I'm totally hands on and the one doing the work but I'm tired of working on street stuff. I wanna get it, hit the key, go play.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montaver
Interesting, how much camber are you running? tire width / brand? - Looks like 888, and -2.8?
Edit - are you using the standard spring setup or are those custom?
Appreciate it!
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Car is now set at 3 degrees camber, zero toe front
1.9 camber, toe in - 1 degree. Yes, Toyo R888R sneakers. The springs came with the Ohilns.
I kept a pretty close eye on temps across the tire's face (Longacre gauge with pyro temp sensor -
http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...auge-0-100-psi) and was pleased with the consistency of the measured temps (140ish outer to 155ish inner tread temps up front, 150-155 rear).
Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES
What is your rear seat still doing in the car with that cage? You will drop 60lbs taking it out...
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Two aspects.
First, I wanted to keep the back interior of the car for aesthetics. That'll probably change as I move onward with the car. It's only 6 months old with 3100 miles (of which around a third are track) so I'm not quite ready to start yanking out and shelving stuff.
I know I can loose quite a bit of weight removing it but I don't care to spend close to 2K for a sheet of press board covered in Ozite for the "back seat delete".
I'm capable of doing the seat delete on my own, just don't have the time/desire to spend on it right now - that's all taken up with my present (5 year long) project in the pic below. Once it's done I'll probably direct more attention to the M2.
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New suspension - Thoughts and observations.
With the stock suspension, coming out of turn 8 and into 9 at AMP there are chatter bumps and it's slightly off camber. The back end was twitchy, skittish and never felt planted at all.
I had a student with an M4 that has adjustable ride suspension (guessing magnetically controlled - I'm not up on BMW's technology - still new to it) and it was silky smooth over the section and felt very compliant and planted.
My car, with the Ohlins now, feels the same way. It was stuck down, planted and put the power down w/o getting all skittish.
Cornering seems much better too - more confidence going into them and less understeer unless pushed. The balance is better. I can stick/slip either end as desired with a little pedal dancing (left foot braking helps SO much in being able to overlap inputs for chassis balancing).
Back end seems much more planted too - still seems like I get oversteer pretty badly on throttle & exit but that's all controllable with my right ankle. Do have to admit that the four wheel drift at 80+ out of a couple of the corners at AMP are a lot of fun.
I'm impressed with just how controllable the M2 is even when the tail is out wagging in the breeze like a happy puppy.
Overall I'm VERY pleased with what I've done to the car for the track.
I do have one complaint/desire to change: My brakes are great, no issues (Pagid yellows), would just like something a tad more "personalized".
They stop well, have good modulation, blah, blah. What I'd like, though, is a bit more pedal meaning I wish it would stiffen up sooner in the throw and have a more solid feeling.
The pedal has a soft zone when initially stepping on it and then once it gets into the braking area of it's throw, it's on the softer side with a tad more travel than I'd like. Gives me a mushy feeling with less modulation feel than I'd like.
I'd prefer a slightly stiffer pedal with less throw - What'd I'd do in my off road stuff to solve this would be to up the piston size in the master cylinder and change the ratio between the pedal and the pucks along with adjust the pedal throw and where it enters the brake pressure zone.