Quote:
Originally Posted by F87source
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie
If what you're saying is true, explain to me why there are so many cases of hard shifting and gear grind?
There might be some play in travel from end of the pedal before it's considered fully engaged but it seems asinine to physically block out the linkage with some aftermarket washer, when there have been confirmed cases of shifting issues with this product and also when a part of vehicle's inherent lag is related to computer.
But like I said; to each is own - and yet another reminder why I would avoid ever buying a used, manual "boy racer" vehicle.
May God be with your synchros #RIP 👏🏻😇
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It could be a bad clutch fluid bleed, cold transmission fluid, etc. Stock cars still grind and have hard shifts so your conclusion doesn't make a difference. I've owned so many manual cars that had shifting issues like this it's not even a shock for me. The evo X I had was by far the worse, and the only solution was the red line transmission fluid cocktail and a weighted titanium shift knob.
There is no linkage, it's a hydraulic clutch so all your doing is raising the clutch bottoming point. you're technically not blocking anything, you're just increasing the thickness of the factory clutch stop which the clutch pedal arm rests on when bottomed out. Why don't you look at some images of how the whole clutch pedal assembly before you start running to conclusions. The factory clutch stop is like 3mm thick the newer one is thicker which emulates the bottom out position being higher, which in effect is like not bottoming out the clutch. Like I said before there are reports of the cars having shifting issues bone stock as well, so blaming it all on the clutch stop is a statistical sampling bias.
100% agreed on your point of not buying a used car.
No need to worry about my synchros, I had a manual m235i that was time attacked with 550whp and 3 shims on the clutch stop without issues. Plus I've done actual testing on my end to make sure to the best of my ability the clutch is actually engaged, and am not an internet keyboard speculation warrior. When the clutch needs replacing I'll pull the transmission off to try and see if the throw out bearing has fully disengaged through clutch with a clutch stop in place. If anything the clutch stop has made the shifting smoother in all other gears, except the occasional 1-2 rough shift which also occured stock. |
I respect your conviction to this product but as you're aware, the clutch releases is hydraulic; so you ever thought that maybe BMW engineered the dead pedal engagement with added layer of safety to weed out the possibility of air in the system or a certain amount of lower fluid per push to release clutch would be taken up by the extra slack.
I sincerely doubt there is a slight play built it the system just to mess with us..
Not going to go back and forth on this as we both have our own opinion on this product, I just to play it safe, as you roll the dice...
And thanks for opting for the manual, keeping the take rate up, regardless how you choose to use it.
