Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil
For the record, I initially had the Burger clutch stop, and found that this improved the long throw a lot, making shifts more comfortable.
I then did the CDV delete and this improved the smoothness of shifting a lot, particularly with rev-match disabled.
Finally, I added the Ultimate Clutch Pedal, and this does make a difference, but I wouldn't recommend spending the money... (sorry to the manufacturer). Contrary to what others have said, I felt that moving the spring tension to anything other than the stock position actually made the clutch feel less linear, and the shorter throw makes the bite point smaller in the throw, and therefore slightly harder to control in stop / start traffic.
I've got used to the UCP now, and with the spring in the stock position it's fine, so I'm leaving it in place. My point is simply that it's not worth the money because the biggest benefits come from the CDV removal, and the clutch stop. Combined those two cost less than $30 if you have the tools, and less than $100 if you don't.
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I really want to do the CDV delete. One thing I'm still confused about is the reverse bleeding method. Hope there was a you tube video showing how to properly bleed the slave cylinder.