View Single Post
      02-19-2021, 04:27 PM   #27
F87source
Major General
F87source's Avatar
No_Country
7252
Rep
7,429
Posts

Drives: Bmw M2
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: .

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW DIY Guy View Post
Fantastic info and in this case I didn't, knowing all fluids were coming out shortly for the crank hub replacement.
That's still not good because if there is a large air pocket in your oiling loop (which is common when removing the oil thermostat and doing oil filter housing gaskets) it will cause excessive wear on your bearings if you start the engine without priming first. Alot of n55 guys have had their entire motors lock up and get seized or experience excessive damage to their rod bearings because they didn't prime their oiling loop.




Also, when doing the crank hub replacement as per eas:https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1561598

You drop the oil pan (just like an oil change no problem here) but you don't disrupt the oil cooler loop, so therefore no bubbles will be introduced. Therefore an oil priming step is not necessary. So what i'm trying to say is if you didn't start the car yet make sure the shop primes your oiling system correctly aka unplug the fuel injectors (not the LPFP by itself letting the injectors just spray, because the HPFP is lubricated by fuel and needs the fuel supply) and the coils if you want, then cranking it for 10 seconds, then stop letting the starter cool for 20 seconds, then repeat 3 times. If you have already started and drove your car, there is nothing you can do from here just hope your bearings are ok and monitor your oil for excessive metal (copper, lead etc) which is indicative of bearing failure.
__________________
Click on the link below to see a compiled list of every review I have ever written:
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...2#post30368242
Appreciate 0