Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil
This is exactly the reason I am tempted not to re-install my UCP. The helper spring is designed to provide resistance before and after the bite point and help out around the bite point. I think the UCP moves the 'dead' position of the helper spring so it effectively no longer lines up with the bite point position. I ended up going with the position they claim is closest to stock, but still found modulating the bite point more difficult that the stock pedal.
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I'm not saying you're wrong at all here, but why would changing the shape of the pedal assembly itself change the stroke duration (bite point and modulation) of the slave cylinder arm that's connected to the pedal? Yes, the UCP does lower the resting height of the pedal and lowers where catch point starts, but I don't recall the catch point and duration of the bite point window shrinking with the UCP. Perhaps the excitement of installing the UCP skewed my reality
Are you saying when you swapped the stop pedal back in, modulating the bite point became easier and the bite point window increased?
I do have to say that this is one of the most difficult manuals to drive smoothly during normal driving, especially when leaving in 1st and the executing the 1-2 shift. I really have to think about it to make things smooth. I've been driving manuals for decades too. I find the bite point window to be really narrow (maybe it's the UCP?) and it moves around a lot (the damn CDV).
For hard driving, the UCP is money. I can hit the shifts very quickly due to the reduced pedal stroke and it seems to help with rev match downshifts. If you routinely track the car, this mod is a must.