Installed the TurboSmart DV11 full plumb back diverter valve. I replaced my DV+ with the TurboSmart unit. For reference I was never running the main spring with the DV+, I ran it in OEM configuration. The install is a pain in the ass - patience is key here. It's fully doable on jack stands, that's how I did it. It's no more difficult than the DV+ install - they're both not fun lol. Move the water pump out of the way, remove the intercooler, move the steering rack and sway bar - you'll thank me later as you'll have a lot more wiggle room to get to those three bolts.
First impression of the TurboSmart DV11 is that it's significantly more responsive during transient throttle driving. I feel like the spool up time when I'm on and off throttle is reduced as the DV11 doesn't fully vent all the pressure immediately, but rather gradually vents it resulting in smoother and faster spool up during part throttle application. I imagine this is how the DV+ would have felt if I ran the main spring, I really wish I did have it installed so this could be a true apples to apples comparison, but oh well. As for sounds... I did the full plumb back model and have a CTS Turbo intake, the DV+ was quite loud before and you could definitely hear the turbo spool up and the DV+ vent, the same is true with the VR11, the only difference is the re-circulation sound is reduced when you come off the throttle, and I imagine this is fully to do with the fact that its a slow vent as opposed to an immediate dump. Great plug and play product that full replaces the OEM DV!
I also replaced my tail lights over the weekend with the LCI tail lights. I LED bulb swapped the original non-LCI tail lights, but the diffused look of the LCI tails was what won me over. Super simple swap as I followed a guide posted on the 2-Series board. Move the pins over to the new connector, do a bit of coding with Bimmercode and you're set. Here's a picture of the comparison between the two tail lights...
Finally I installed a rear camber lock out kit myself and a friend have been working on. Having tracked my car multiple times at our local track, and doing quite a bit of spirited driving and wrenching on the vehicle, I noticed that my rear camber bolts had actually moved from their original positions compared to where they were during my last alignment. I marked the bolts originally after the alignment was performed with a paint marker and the marks were no longer aligned. I can only assume this is normal "failure" of an eccentric bolt setup where the only thing keeping the bolt from twisting and moving is the physical torque spec of the bolt. It's not by much, maybe 1/8 of a turn, but any bit of movement obviously throws out the alignment of the vehicle. I have access to a laser and measured out the OEM bolt and created a few shims that would "lock out" the bolt from turning, but yet provide multiple adjustment positions for situations where you might want to dial in different rear camber options.
Here's a few photos of the lock outs we've made - I've been rocking them on my car for multiple weeks now and it's felt incredibly solid. Best of all, there’s effectively zero chance for my camber to come out of spec. The only way is if the shim or bolt itself were to fail. Another bonus was that I was actually able to return to my original alignment with the shims by sliding the appropriate offset shim in between the eccentric bolt and the LCA and making sure that the paint marker line matched. After that was done I swapped out the eccentric bolt for some new OEM spec hardware and I was good to go. Super happy that I was able to swap the hardware and not need to pay for another alignment! Anyway, here are some photo’s of the rear camber lock out kit.