Quote:
Originally Posted by AmuroRay
The difference between the two like you said was headroom. The BMS unit is basically a bypass from what I read, so you're baseline is 185F giving you almost 80F in headroom, vs starting at 240F.
The Mosselman is actually functioning as a lower thermostat switch, and would likely be better for street cars, since it still allows them to reach "operating temps" but adds about 20F headroom over baseline.
I don't think either provide any extra cooling, but rather allow the cooler to shed head before it's heat soaked by the time the thermostat would open. Here is a review of the BMS unit from 2013:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=833908
Edit:
thejeremyman9 - you are right, it does:
https://burgertuning.com/products/sp...l-cooler-valve
Edit edit:
Maxcool mode is NOT a replacement for a lower temperature thermostat, as it only targets coolant (likely overdriving the waterpump)
https://www.protuningfreaks.com/blog...r-n55-vehicles |
I think youre reading too much old information.
Max cooling mode is the first thing anyone should do before touching any hardware. No you're not overdriving the water pump. It's map controlled like I said above and it sits idle quite a bit to keep coolant running excessively hot for economy. M2 likely has better stock mapping than a regular n55 but still.... there is cooling overhead there to take advantage of.
You don't want you're car targeting 236f cooling temps on track. You want to drop that to 180. Yes the water pump will.have to work harder and the thermostat will stay fully open (it's also electronic), but, that's not "overdrive." The car can always hit those lower cooling targets it just doesn't do it unless you stay at wide open throttle for a while. And if you start at 236f at wide open throttle your coolant temps will only drop so much. You want your coolant at <190f on track. What's the difference between 230 and 190? An entire 40f. Where will your oil temps be by dropping cooling 40f??? They'll be 30-40f lower meaning you'll be going on track at 210f oil which is the opening of the stock oil thermostat..no need for a low temperature oil thermostat really as 210f is perfect for a street/track car.
You want max cooling mode first and foremost. Then reassess. You can code back to stock cooling in 30 seconds when you're back to daily driving.
Combine 180f coolant temps with a bigger oil cooler and you likely won't see much if nay need for any additional cooling... maybe on longer 25-30minute session you'll start seeing bugger climbs in temps and then you can look at a csf radiator or something. Cooling will rise from thermal overload of the stock radiator as you run through a track session.
If you're driving on the street I don't care hit hard you drive your car you don't need any cooling upgrades. There is 0 comparison to on track. People see 250f oil on the street and think they need a low temp thermostat. You dont and you're not using all the cooling capacity you already have without max cooling mode. Quite frankly there is 0 reason to keep oil <250f on the street.