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      08-29-2020, 11:57 PM   #90
Poochie
Luxury at the redline :)
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Drives: 2016 M2
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: NYC

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1s View Post
That is what my problem is. I won't sit here letting you give nonsense minformation that is potentially harmful to people.
Damn, you just won't quit, you're like an ignorant Energizer Bunny..

First of all, I know exactly what I'm doing, I study technical manuals in my spare time and reverse engineer old parts to trace its entire operation.

Hence the reason, from my actual research, I was able to find viable solution to this issue, unlike the few that choose to be willfully ignorant, making unfounded accusations, with absolutely nothing to back it up.

Why instead of spewing all this mouth diarrhea, you don't just shut me down with some actual proof that what I'm suggesting is nefarious and wrong. Anything; a link, an article, testimonial, etc. Anything that might have a morsel of substance, that would stop me dead in my tracks and make me looks as clueless as you right now. Maybe it's because you don't even know what the fvck you're actually worried or talking about...

The lightening system in BMWs are not exactly rocket science. It hasn't changed from the it's origins in the F30 from 2012. The part numbers, equipment and exact iStep module programming are all the same, from 2012 to 2021, i.e. The F-Series. (See actual proof below)

It will be revised again when specific generation progresses. So that fact that your called my car "old" and not related, just confirms how lost and daft your truly are and that money might be able to buy you a newer MY vehicle but you can't unfortunately purchase commonsense. What a shame..

There is no direct sensor to detect a bulb outage, the REM/FEM modules monitors an indirect flow of current and based on its set parameters, determines if the flow is out of bound, thus indicating a bulb might be out or now.

As evident by the topic, this method of measurement is not always the most efficient form of detection, especially when the light clusters mixed with incandescent and LEDs together. This create instances where it might receive a false-positive readings, where a light is functioning fine but the REM current draw assumes that there is an outage.

Removing the bulb checks just meaning the REM module will not longer send pulses to determine if there is a bulb outage, that's it! The remainder of system that checks for other related faults still remain intact.

The same way you can code out your tire pressure sensors, while on the track, where the TPMS sensors will no longer checks for a low or blow out tires, yet everything else still remains kosher, it just now, specially, the tires are no longer monitored. The car is just as safe as it was with the sensors active but now the nannies are not longer bitching. Removing the bulb check is the same exact principle.

BMW FEM/REM modules runs on a BUS networks, where they are all interconnected and uses a system cataloged by parameters to determine which specific segment of coding to run. Removing the bulb check is not a hack, the firmware is actually designed this way for this very exact reason; disabling the "bulb" check, when LEDs are installed.

Removing the bulb check is changing a number within the catalog from say "01 to "02" - very much like going into a Windows computer BIOS menu and making adjustments for the key stroke speeds or screen display. Nothing that's detrimental to its normal course of operation, simple just a change in a recessed menu.

You can add an aftermarket load resistor to trick the system to believing that their is a consistent flow of power, where it would never know if the LED (or even incandescent bulbs) is actually out, since the resistor acts as a dummy, functioning incandescent bulb, without emitting light, yet drawing the same amperage as a fully functioning light bulb.

However, as I mentioned, the heat sink of the aftermarket resistor became too hot for my liking and require you splice into the factory wiring. Two things that doesn't sit will with me, when there cleanest and simples solution is to simple remove the bulb checks and be done.

I'm not sure what's your problem but everything I stated I can backed up with actually evidence and personal testimonials. You're just shaking in your boot because you're oblivious to the system's
MO and incorrectly assuming your car is going to spontaneously combust into flames, which is actually humorous to me, being so dead wrong yet strong in your convictions but it's getting old now and we keep going around in circles.

I'll tell you what Mother Theresa, you're so worried about me spreading factual and verified information to the public, of which you've label as "misinformation." I'll make you deal to save the day, if you fine me one iota of official evidence that decoding the bulb checks is in anyway harmful to the lighting system, beside your unverified but misguided fears, I promise you I'll delete all my related post on the subject and my entire account today. Ball is in your court, you have a forum to save! I'll just patiently wait right here for my comeuppance 🙄... [/B]



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