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      06-05-2018, 10:10 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrs.boost View Post
I easily spent over $15k in maintenance on my e92 335 over the 3 years I owned it. I’ll take the new car all day long.
Damnnnn

But that's not the case for most used cars especially CPOs.
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      06-06-2018, 12:38 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrs.boost View Post
I easily spent over $15k in maintenance on my e92 335 over the 3 years I owned it. I’ll take the new car all day long.
$5k in maintenance each year? Damn, what needed to be done?
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      06-09-2018, 03:25 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrs.boost View Post
I easily spent over $15k in maintenance on my e92 335 over the 3 years I owned it. I’ll take the new car all day long.
What??? Did you blow the engine, tranny, electrical every other year??

How does one spend $5k a year three years in a row!?

Wtf happened???
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      06-09-2018, 04:27 PM   #70
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I bought a 5 year old e60 550i in 2012 for $24k, and car had a sticker for 70 something msrp. I bought it with zero warranty, and it had 55k miles on it at the time. Car currently has 115k miles on it and I've done the following maintenance:
every 5k oil changes
60k - plugs $500
65k - Changed out control arm bushings just to refresh the front end when I installed coilovers
80k - Changed some module that kept making my car throw random errors ($500).
100k - revamped the cooling system, it didn't fail, just felt like bmw water pumps are ticking time bombs. Expansion tank / hoses / coolant flush / water pump using OEM parts $1000
105k - Brake refresh. Brakes were still okay but I did have a lip on the rotor, so bought some Centric pads / rotors plus labor for $800

Prior to me purchasing the car the car already had a few service visits such as the leaky mechatronics in the transmission, and a couple other TSB / recalls I believe.


Best daily driver I ever had minus the damn 16mpg, my commute to work is short however. The car is probably worth sub 10k at the moment so I essentially lost 14-16k across 6 years? It was hard for me to sell this car for dirt cheap at the time I bought the M4 when it was such a reliable car.

Last edited by JamesGames; 06-09-2018 at 04:38 PM..
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      07-05-2018, 12:16 AM   #71
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I got my one and half year old f32 440ix cpo from dealer in toronto for 45k cad (34kusd) plus tax. Original price was 72k cad (55k) plus tax and shipping. One owner, 16k kms (10k miles), never tracked, no accident. I really feel it was a good deal. And I was really surprised how this car depreciated so much in just one hear and few months. Audi A5 or c coupe are all much much more expensive if similarity equiped with similar kilometers. i know the 2017 model was pre 2018 facelift, but the update wasnt that significant really.

Last edited by Cyanfall; 07-05-2018 at 12:24 AM..
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      07-05-2018, 05:58 AM   #72
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Not mine!
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      07-05-2018, 06:03 AM   #73
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Bought my 2013 M5 over two years ago with 6k miles on it for $60k, new sticker was $116k. Car perfect.
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      07-05-2018, 09:17 AM   #74
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I got mine 2013 535i xdrive (fully loaded) for $35k (including taxes) almost two years ago, Aug 2016. The sticker price of the car was $70k. The previous had leased it so it was in really great condition. Spent $3k on an extended warranty and couple more grand on mods and still turning heads. From what I've noticed, in general BMW (and most Euro) cars lose about 40-50% of their value after the first few years which is why I'll never by brand new for Euro cars.
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      07-05-2018, 09:50 AM   #75
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Mate you gotta move that plate.
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      07-05-2018, 09:55 AM   #76
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Mate you gotta move that plate.
Haha, or at least buy a new bumper cover, someone killed that one.
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      07-05-2018, 11:50 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by BrettKA7 View Post
Suspension first!

Then M Sport rear bumper.

Then maybe M Sport steering wheel if I can find an affordable airbag. I really don't care that much about the steering wheel, though.
One of the bests things I’ve done was upgrade my ugly/clunky steering wheel to a Msport one, added CF trim and wrap it in Alcantara/perforated leather. Along with upgrading to Msport seats! As a one forum member said...those are mods you touch and feel every time you get in the car. Man was he right, it totally changed the driving experience. Worth every penny!
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      07-08-2018, 09:43 AM   #78
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My thoughts on the subject of buying new vs. used. Any evaluation of a car purchase is only rationally made on how much the vehicle costs (total lifetime cost) to own on a $/mile basis. Depreciation is not linear, so the longer you keep a car the depreciation is amortized over a higher number of miles. At some point the rate of depreciation gets to zero, meaning the resale value of the vehicle barely drops off as time progresses.

Buying new gives you use of the car when it is new and least likely to fail and with a warranty, all to me have advantages. Buying used, outside of a CPO situation (possibly), leaves it up to the honesty of the seller and the wherewithal of the buyer to determine the value and thus condition of the car. All of my BMWs were bought new and taken to high mileage (still having 3 of them). My Z4 I bought used (as it was out of production). It was low mileage and at CarMax. It looked clean and well preserved at 23,000 miles and 7 years old. But it wasn't totally the case. CarMax, despite the advertising, really didn't do more than detail the car and sell it. Whatever inspection they did/do is bullshit. They missed a whole series of things, like a dent in the fender above the headlight (they did fix it via PDR), low coolant, mouse nest in the air box, a filthy cabin air filter, bad throwout bearing, and a completely incorrect battery installed in the trunk. And they charged a non-negotiable premium price. I'll never again trust CarMax. They are no different than any other used car sales outfit other than they make the purchase process fancy and new-car buying-like. Complete and utter BS company.

I'd much rather buy new, have a warranty to sort out any manufacturing defects, then drive the car to 250,000 miles, where the deprecation makes no difference. That way I get the drive the car at it's most fresh and trouble-free state, and keep it a long time as if it is a used car, but one I know the complete ownership history on.

My 2 cents.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 07-08-2018 at 09:50 AM..
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      07-08-2018, 10:27 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
...I'd much rather buy new, have a warranty to sort out any manufacturing defects, then drive the car to 250,000 miles, where the deprecation makes no difference. That way I get the drive the car at it's most fresh and trouble-free state, and keep it a long time as if it is a used car, but one I know the complete ownership history on...
When you buy new do you also buy an extended warranty? Or do you trust that your care of the car and the car being without issue during the warranty period gives you enough trust in the car and reliability?

I haven't kept a car longer than 4 years yet. And depending on the landscape of cars in my finances in the new few years I can't say if I'll keep the 230xi I just picked up a couple of weeks ago.
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      07-08-2018, 11:44 AM   #80
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I hate those clickbait articles where they drag it out to 12 pages. Anyway, I’m surprised Fiat isn’t on the list. Those typically lose half their value within 24 months.

CTS is a good car in a crowded market.
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      07-10-2018, 12:47 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matty088 View Post
I dont agree with you. Tons of data out there. Check out lexus.
that's because of demand, not reliability (directly). Toyota/Lexus can't keep up with their sales rate. That's why people can sell gently used cars for the same price as new, because folks would rather get into one now then wait for a dealer allocation. That's also why they came to my job every 6 months asking us what it would take to increase production rates on their parts. It sucked, but was an obvious indicator that they saw the opportunity in the new market and were tired of seeing tacomas being swapped around constantly.

Same goes for diesel trucks. You see them constantly selling for crazy prices, even with 100k-200k+. Of course you could say that the reliability is a factor in driving demand, but that's not always related either.

In the grand scheme of things every car depreciates. Parts become cheaper/non-existant, aftermarket support even becomes scarce. It becomes harder to repair and cheaper to total out in the case of an accident. But the market dictates the actual sales value and whether it goes up or down.
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Quote:
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As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
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      07-10-2018, 04:33 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyresian View Post
When you buy new do you also buy an extended warranty? Or do you trust that your care of the car and the car being without issue during the warranty period gives you enough trust in the car and reliability?

I haven't kept a car longer than 4 years yet. And depending on the landscape of cars in my finances in the new few years I can't say if I'll keep the 230xi I just picked up a couple of weeks ago.
No. I DIY. It was a necessity when I was young adult, which is now a hobby that pays for itself.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 07-10-2018 at 04:43 PM..
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