[KevM2]

Originally Posted by cecaa850

Update on the bolts. I ordered 8 bolts today for a delivered price of $29.15. That's about $3.64 a bolt. I found them on E-Bay and they are OEM bolts. Ebay has a sale today for 15% off if you enter "PRIMOSALE" when you check out. For that price I feel it's silly not to replace them.

I'm just in the process of doing my research and getting everything ready to do the DP upgrade like you. At a point where I'm wondering if I should just pay around $300 to get a shop do it for me or do it myself and risk having to deal with some issues like seized O2 sensors etc... I'm just so anal that I like to do it myself, unless the shop lets me be present while they do it

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by KevM2

I'm just in the process of doing my research and getting everything ready to do the DP upgrade like you. At a point where I'm wondering if I should just pay around $300 to get a shop do it for me or do it myself and risk having to deal with some issues like seized O2 sensors etc... I'm just so anal that I like to do it myself, unless the shop lets me be present while they do it

I'm like you. I hate having anyone work on my house or car. If I do it, I know exactly what was done and that it was done correctly.

[KevM2]

Originally Posted by cecaa850

Update on the bolts. I ordered 8 bolts today for a delivered price of $29.15. That's about $3.64 a bolt. I found them on E-Bay and they are OEM bolts. Ebay has a sale today for 15% off if you enter "PRIMOSALE" when you check out. For that price I feel it's silly not to replace them.

Would you happen to have the part number for these bolts?

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by KevM2

Would you happen to have the part number for these bolts?

The number I wrote down was 33326768354. I got it somewhere on this forum. Heck, it might have been this thread, I don't recall.

[Xchange43]

Hello folks, i have been trying to understand few things on my newly delivered M2 18, i m about to throw a downpipe catless but wondering the effect of the CEL. Does it put the car in Limp mode and can i remove it with a BM3?

Also the car has 30km on it, should i wait?

Thanks

[Who?]

Originally Posted by TheJaeger

Hello folks, i have been trying to understand few things on my newly delivered M2 18, i m about to throw a downpipe catless but wondering the effect of the CEL. Does it put the car in Limp mode and can i remove it with a BM3?

Also the car has 30km on it, should i wait?

Thanks

ive got 2800km on mine, no way im putting a catless thatll show a code then a tune it to erase it.

get a catted that wont throw a code, and you can revert back to stock if you have a serious warranty issue..

[KevM2]

Originally Posted by Who?

ive got 2800km on mine, no way im putting a catless thatll show a code then a tune it to erase it.

get a catted that wont throw a code, and you can revert back to stock if you have a serious warranty issue..

Totally agree. Get a catted DP that is known not to throw a CEL. I would wait till after the break in service/inspection... make sure you establish a good rapport with your service people just in case... I don't think a CEL would put you in limp mode but I think it would make your car run less efficiently

[Xchange43]

Thanks everyone, i m not sure what how others deal with the catless.
My goal was to put the catless dp on a stock exhaust. Now i m not sure if a cel is sonething major and can be ereased through the remap.

[Drop the hammer]

I went with a Fabspeed sport cat shortly after getting my car. No tune, no cel, no issues. Change back to stock when I get servicing done. Since then and after 20,000 kms or so I’ve added bm3. On the stock exhaust the sound of a Fabspeed sport cat is wonderful and not overly loud. I drive it as a commuter into the city and not too loud for that, but more aggressive than stock and a better sound (subjective but others have commented).

[KevM2]

Originally Posted by Drop the hammer

I went with a Fabspeed sport cat shortly after getting my car. No tune, no cel, no issues. Change back to stock when I get servicing done. Since then and after 20,000 kms or so I've added bm3. On the stock exhaust the sound of a Fabspeed sport cat is wonderful and not overly loud. I drive it as a commuter into the city and not too loud for that, but more aggressive than stock and a better sound (subjective but others have commented).

About to install same cat. Seems like you've become pretty proficient at switching out the DP. Before I proceed, do you have any helpful pointers? In particular, seems many people say the hardest is removing the front v clamp to the turbo, do you have any advice on how to make this less painful?

[Who?]

installing mine now

the turbo side v clamp is impossible to get to?

[KevM2]

Originally Posted by Who?

installing mine now

the turbo side v clamp is impossible to get to?

How did the install go? I'm bit worried getting the V clamp off and also dealing with seized O2 sensors.

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by TheJaeger

Thanks everyone, i m not sure what how others deal with the catless.
My goal was to put the catless dp on a stock exhaust. Now i m not sure if a cel is sonething major and can be ereased through the remap.

The M2 and most modern cars have two O2 sensors, a wideband one that takes readings before the cat to determine air fuel ratio and adjust fueling, and a narrowband one that checks the performance of the cat.

You'll get a CEL if the cat is not performing (because it's not present), but it won't affect the performance of the car because it's only a check rather than something that affects fueling, timing or boost etc.

You can fit catless and ignore the CEL, but that's not a good idea because there is only one CEL and it could be useful to identify other faults and won't be able to do so if it's on all the time. The other option is to get a piggyback to eliminate it, or a flash tune to ignore the error.

If you're happy with tuning your car and the warranty issues associated with that, go right ahead and flash it and you'll have no issues with Cat CEL going forward.

I'd personally not recommend going catless because the smell is obvious to anyone around, and police may very well pull you for it, or give you grief if they're pulling you for something else.

The only reason to go catless, besides sound, and 200 cell is good for that anyway, is if you want to use leaded fuel, but I'm not sure how happy the wideband O2 sensor would be with leaded fuel anyway, so it seems pretty pointless to me. Go 200 cell cat and get all the benefits without the aggravation.

Originally Posted by Who?

installing mine now

the turbo side v clamp is impossible to get to?

The bolt for the clamp should be at the bottom, and is quite easy to get to from underneath the car once you've removed the stiffening plate.

Originally Posted by KevM2

How did the install go? I'm bit worried getting the V clamp off and also dealing with seized O2 sensors.

The V Clamp will be stuck on after you remove the bolt, because it will have been pulled tight over the flanges of the turbo and the down pipe. I used a long 3/8 socket extension to apply force between the two sides of the bottom of the clamp to break the seal. It always seemed to me to break on the passenger side of the car, but whatever the case, you're likely to have one side free, and the other still tight.

Once you get one side free, you have two options to get the other side free. One is to apply force to the downpipe which will now be slightly loose, at least on one side. The other is to tap the bottom of the clamp on the side that's still tight; obviously you'll need a drift of some sort to reach it. Usually a combination of these two approaches is successful.

As for O2 sensors, the easiest thing to do, as I've already said, is to heat up the base and thread with a gas torch; they come out easily then. Last time I changed them I didn't even try without first heating them up, and they came out super easily.

You can get a gas torch with gas for less than $20 at Home Depot. I used a TurboTorch STK-9, but that's just what I had available. I'm sure the Bernzomatic torch will be good enough for getting the O2 sensors out.

[Who?]

Ok, finally did the install

Two issues, i couldnt torque or properly tighten the sensors, is this critical?

And second, i have this piece left over, any idea if its needed and critical?

[KevM2]

Originally Posted by Who?

Ok, finally did the install

Two issues, i couldnt torque or properly tighten the sensors, is this critical?

And second, i have this piece left over, any idea if its needed and critical?

[img]https://preview.ibb.co/cwHjxT/CA4178...29451516_C.jpg[/img]

Not sure about the O2 sensor torque. I think should be okay as long as it's tight. That's the extra bracket that fits on the stock DP which the Fabspeed one doesn't have, so not needed. Did you need to use a torch to heat up and loosen the O2 sensors?

Can't wait to hear your impression of sound and drive!

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by KevM2

Can't wait to hear your impression of sound and drive!

Can't wait to get mine. It won't be built till the end of the month though. I'll do a dry panel air filter at the same time.

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by Who?

Ok, finally did the install

Two issues, i couldnt torque or properly tighten the sensors, is this critical?

[/img]

That's not good. Did you use a crows foot or O2 sensor socket and torque wrench during installation?

[McGary911]

Originally Posted by cecaa850

That's not good. Did you use a crows foot or O2 sensor socket and torque wrench during installation?

I installed the sensors on the Fabspeed DP before installing it. Very easy to get to then with a regular wrench. Then once installed, you just have to fish up the 2 wires. After installing the DP that's refreshingly easy.

I'd expect that's what most would do, but could be wrong.

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by McGary911

I installed the sensors on the Fabspeed DP before installing it. Very easy to get to then with a regular wrench. Then once installed, you just have to fish up the 2 wires. After installing the DP that's refreshingly easy.

I'd expect that's what most would do, but could be wrong.

That would certainly work and is probably the method most used but no way to tell if it's torqued properly.

[McGary911]

Originally Posted by cecaa850

That would certainly work and is probably the method most used but no way to tell if it's torqued properly.

Oh, I got you. I was thinking you were saying crow's foot for the reach in with an extension....and torque wrench in general. You were saying both at a time which of course you'd need to torque this. 1 thing v. 2 things.

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by McGary911

Oh, I got you. I was thinking you were saying crow's foot for the reach in with an extension....and torque wrench in general. You were saying both at a time which of course you'd need to torque this. 1 thing v. 2 things.

Si.

Maybe I could have worded it better.

[David1]

Don't worry about torqueing the o2 sensors. They just need to be snug. I have installed hundreds over 25 years, never torqued them and never had one come loose. On this car, don't even bother with the O2 sensors until you have the downpipe out. The hardest thin about the O2 wires is getting the one clip back on the block like how it was.