[rich8566]

Originally Posted by Transcon

Guess I am in the minority but I am extremely happy with the Dinan suspension setup. Wouldn't call it a "coilover" in the sense that I think of it but the overall daily ride is much improved. I don't use the M2 as a track car so I can't speak to that but it did feel much more stable on a late night run over Ortega Highway a few nights back. Like some have reported I can personally attest that it does indeed give a much more comfortable ride in daily driving conditions.

I had originally planned to go the Ohlins route as I use them on almost every street bike I have but decided to try Dinan as a "one size fits all" type of application. Not that its hard but I like not having to readjust settings depending on driving conditions. Not knocking Ohlins, KW, or the MP offerings as Im sure in a pure track setting they would leave me behind. But for the price and what I was looking to accomplish the Dinan setup has worked out perfectly

Transcon - please tell me more about the daily drive ride with the Dinan setup. My daily ride is brutally harsh, but that's NY for you. So I'm looking for something to soften my daily ride, but still keep me in the game on tracks like the Glen and NJMS.

[rich8566]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Agreed. The Dinan suspension improved the ride around town, allowed me to corner balance the car, and significantly reduced dive, squat, and roll on the track.

The best part is I focus on myself, driving inputs, and being smooth vs spending time thinking about/adjusting suspension. This setup had me running 2:13s at Watkins Glen on RE-71Rs.

Adjustable suspension wouldn't gain you any more time over something like the Dinan setup unless you're a seasoned driver who can fully exploit the limits of the car, knows the track well enough to determine which corners you can pick up time in (while compromising other corners), and you're making adjustments as track conditions change. Even if you fall into this camp (most of us don't), there are other areas where much more time can be had.

Just my $0.02.

ZM2 - 2'13" at the Glen? That's a great lap time. I've done 2'17" on stock Conti's and Pagid RS29s. Tell me more about the Dinan setup. I'm looking to soften my daily ride which can be brutal at times. At the same time I don't want to hurt my track time events where the OEM suspension works well.

[ZM2]

Originally Posted by rich8566

ZM2 - 2'13" at the Glen? That's a great lap time. I've done 2'17" on stock Conti's and Pagid RS29s. Tell me more about the Dinan setup. I'm. Looking to soften my daily ride which can be brutal at times. At the same time I don't want to hurt my track time events where the OEM suspension works well.

Thanks.

The Dinan setup definitely improves the ride around town. It only feels stiffer when you hit a big bump.

As for track times, it may be a little faster, but I’m guessing less than a second at WGI based on OEM vs Dinan times I’ve done at other tracks. The OEM setup lets you attack the curbs a little more, so there’s some trade off.

Dinan definitely feels better on track, tho. The car pitches and rolls less.

[trackit]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Thanks.

The Dinan setup definitely improves the ride around town. It only feels stiffer when you hit a big bump.

As for track times, it may be a little faster, but I’m guessing less than a second at WGI based on OEM vs Dinan times I’ve done at other tracks. The OEM setup lets you attack the curbs a little more, so there’s some trade off.

Dinan definitely feels better on track, tho. The car pitches and rolls less.

TC Kline is the way to go

[geogerf]

Originally Posted by rich8566

Transcon - please tell me more about the daily drive ride with the Dinan setup. My daily ride is brutally harsh, but that's NY for you. So I'm looking for something to soften my daily ride, but still keep me in the game on tracks like the Glen and NJMS.

I had the stock suspension for about 4500 miles. Got the Dinan setup because it seemed well researched and I liked the recommended drop. I actually wasn’t a fan of having them be a little softer (I liked the stock ride, and would actually have like it firmer).

I’ve only had them for a few weeks, so maybe they are not quite settled, but I feel the ride is surprising the same - it didn’t make the ride quality that much more soft - it is just a tad, which I appreciate. The benefits are as others have stated, but in my opinion, I feel a lot of that also is due to a lower center of gravity, so any quality setup will have a better grip experience (quick turn in, less roll, etc).

I don’t push the car to the limits, so this is just a daily driver experience.

[Saanen]

I have shared my experience on a few other threads, but hey why not here too...I felt the stock suspension was a little too stiff for me, too much bounce; so my driving on back canyon roads was not optimized and when my wife got in the car she would comment on how stiff it was (the suspension?!?)...

I read about the Ohlins R&T adjustability and thought, hey this is one fine car, why not optimize the suspension and see if I can have my cake and eat it too.

I researched the Ohlins spring rates on M2 and M3-4 threads and ran it by a few professionals including Jake at Ohlins and came up with ordering them with a lower spring rate up front (80Nmm vs standard M2 setup if 90Nmm) and in the back I swapped the standard 190Nmm for Eibach which was approx 160Nmm.

The result is an adjustable system... in a few minutes I can go from street at 20 clicks it is slightly softer than stock (just a little softer, but more supple and none of the bounce which existed in the stock system) at 10 clicks it is ready for the canyon driving I bought the car for...quicker response, level and firmly planted....and at 3 clicks it is crazy firm, ready for the track which I will finally test out in March...my next post will be following a day at Thunderhill.
PS If you want to get close to the M240 stiffness I suspect you would need to go with 70Nmm in the front and 140Nmm in the rear.

[F87_LCI]

Originally Posted by Saanen

I researched the Ohlins spring rates on M2 and M3-4 threads and ran it by a few professionals including Jake at Ohlins and came up with ordering them with a lower spring rate up front (80Nmm vs standard M2 setup if 90Nmm) and in the back I swapped the standard 190Nmm for Eibach which was approx 160Nmm.

The result is an adjustable system... in a few minutes I can go from street at 20 clicks it is slightly softer than stock (just a little softer, but more supple and none of the bounce which existed in the stock system) at 10 clicks it is ready for the canyon driving I bought the car for...quicker response, level and firmly planted....and at 3 clicks it is crazy firm, ready for the track which I will finally test out in March...my next post will be following a day at Thunderhill.
PS If you want to get close to the M240 stiffness I suspect you would need to go with 70Nmm in the front and 140Nmm in the rear.

I bought the Ohlins R&T, but they haven't been installed yet...just so i have this straight...the lower the spring rate the "softer" the ride? Do I have this right? I suppose since I simply order the R&T kit for the F87, I will end up with the 90/190Nmm rates??

So does this mean I have to increase the number of "clicks" (i.e. more than 20) to get a similar feeling as you with the lower spring rates?

Also, I f I have 255/35/19 in the front and 285/30/19 in the rear do I need camber plates with the Ohlins??

Apologies for the noob-ish questions, but this is my first set of coil overs, in past I have just gone with a set of H&R springs to get the drop. Appreciate the assist.

[Saanen]

The clicks aka setting will substantially soften or firm up your suspension...at the standard Ohlins R&T setup you will have 90/190Nmm springs which means that at 20 clicks ( the softest setting) you will be a tiny bit firmer than the stock set up....and at 3-5 clicks you are ready for the track....if you go with 80/160Nmm springs like mine your suspension should be pretty much the same as stock at 20 clicks (the softest setting)....I would assume/guess that you would need to go for 70/140Nmm springs to have 20 clicks give you something slightly softer than stock. Given the valving of the Ohlins they do not recommend going any lower than 70/140 or 25% below standard spring rates...hope that helps...as far as I know camber plates are only used in the front ...but this will firm it up a little bit, I did not use them as I doubt I will ever get my car on the track more than 2-3 days a year....but if you will be on the track more regularly, than you will want the camber plates....but again I am not a regular track guy....so a bit of the blind leading the blind...?!?
if you are tracking then you will need new brake pads on your first or second track day....I'm looking at ferodo s2500 or porterfields.....as per Harold at HP..

[TampaF87]

Originally Posted by LSB --> LBB

I bought the Ohlins R&T, but they haven't been installed yet...just so i have this straight...the lower the spring rate the "softer" the ride? Do I have this right? I suppose since I simply order the R&T kit for the F87, I will end up with the 90/190Nmm rates??

So does this mean I have to increase the number of "clicks" (i.e. more than 20) to get a similar feeling as you with the lower spring rates?

Also, I f I have 255/35/19 in the front and 285/30/19 in the rear do I need camber plates with the Ohlins??

Apologies for the noob-ish questions, but this is my first set of coil overs, in past I have just gone with a set of H&R springs to get the drop. Appreciate the assist.

Spring rate is the amount of weight or pressure to compress the spring. The weight of the vehicle is held up by the springs. When you go over a bump, the weight of the vehicle, because of the force of gravity and the impact (depending on the severity of the bump) will cause the spring to compress. To control the rate of compression and rebound of the spring, you have a strut or shock absorber. The valving as to how aggressive it interferes with those rates is paired with the spring rate in order to minimize bounce, and maintain control. Adjustments as to how "stiff" or "soft" are just adjusting how much it bleeds off pressure through the valve. The shock does NOT carry the weight of the car, it controls the response of the spring.

Stiffness doesn't necessarily equate to a bad ride, and softness doesn't equate to a supple Cadillac feel. It has to be a properly married setup. They work in concert. I would much rather have a higher spring rate if it meant the strut was better optimized, than a soft spring rate with a mediocre damper.

As for the camber plate issue, if you're running those tire sizes on the car currently, you shouldn't have any issues. The lowering induces a slight negative camber by nature of the suspension geometry. If you wanted to adjust for factory camber specs, or to any other specs, you would need camber plates OR adjustable control arms. Most people just go with plates if they need to adjust anything.

[18EM2]

Originally Posted by trackit

TC Kline is the way to go

Looks perfect. How much of a drop is that?

[trackit]

Originally Posted by 18EM2

Looks perfect. How much of a drop is that?

Not sure. I can measure it if you would like. I have very little issues with every day use. The ride is good on the road and excellent on the track.

[18EM2]

Originally Posted by trackit

Not sure. I can measure it if you would like. I have very little issues with every day use. The ride is good on the road and excellent on the track.

Can you post the link to the one you have?

Thanks!

[trackit]

Originally Posted by 18EM2

Can you post the link to the one you have?

Thanks!

http://www.tcklineracing.com/webdocs...etails1162.cfm

[18EM2]

Thank you!

[duvelke]

Anyone tried the AST suspension kit yet ?

[dcmac]

Can anyone comment on what sort of differences I’d see between doing say H&R springs only vs going the full coil-over route?

I’m going to be tracking my car maybe 3 days a year, the rest of the time it’s my daily driver.

I’m mostly keen on the springs to get the nice dropped look, and consider any handling improvements a bonus... that and considering price/budget is important for me, figured coilovers would be more gear than I’d really use or need.

Interested in any thoughts from anyone who has just done the springs.. cheers!

[krizze]

Originally Posted by duvelke

Anyone tried the AST suspension kit yet ?

Yes i have it, its fantastic, a proper suspension, and not too harsh its a fantastic improvement on the stock suspension

[horsepower_and_hounds]

I bypassed the cost of coil overs on the F87, I had them on the F82. Since the M2 was already kind of track sprung i went with springs similar as the M2's at the Monticello Motor Club's BMW M2 Racing School. I was not as concerned with really lowering this car like was with the F82. Wanted some but not a ton

http://www.thedrive.com/accelerator/...river-training

[18EM2]

Originally Posted by m2ruder

I bypassed the cost of coil overs on the F87, I had them on the F82. Since the M2 was already kind of track sprung i went with springs similar as the M2's at the Monticello Motor Club's BMW M2 Racing School. I was not as concerned with really lowering this car like was with the F82. Wanted some but not a ton

http://www.thedrive.com/accelerator/...river-training

Monticello looks like great fun. Thanks for the link.

I’m thinking the same, to get springs only. Which did you get and how do you like them and how would you describe the ride?

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by 18EM2

Monticello looks like great fun. Thanks for the link.

I’m thinking the same, to get springs only. Which did you get and how do you like them and how would you describe the ride?

H&R Sport based on our conversation

Good drop, .8 front, .6-.65 in back....didn't get the full .8 but they are non adjustable springs you get what you get. Car has just a slight rake now.

The OEM ride was choppy and stiff so the same now but a tad firmer but not too bad with less body roll. Have not driven the car much or at all hard so cannot comment.

[Franzino]

Originally Posted by Twt

I have been tracking/club racing for a decade, and track/time trial my M2 at least once per month. I got the feel for my car on track first then added camber plates, then MP coilovers with corner balance. I am very happy with the factory units, especially at the low price of $2,200. I have had a few pro drivers take laps at several tracks and they agree that this is a great fit for this car. Lots of people tend to pour money into high end parts , but don't really need them to get the best out of the M2....remember, it's a street car that you can drive to the track and raise hell, without a lot of mods.

How big was the difference between standard suspension and MP coilovers....on track?

[Mosely]

Anyone run or know of someone running the Dinan HAS kit with either spacers or a wider set of tires? Looking to get rid of some of the wheel gap and fill out the fender a tad more without stiffening the ride up too much (the streets here are like a 3rd world country)