[Boba1214]

Originally Posted by David.m

Yes, I just made those ref marks on the brace using a permanent marker pen and have marks on both sides for better accuracy. On the camber plate I used masking tape so I could paint nice straight lines across the top.

The street/track positions are actually reversed to what you've done in the photo, street is -2.0 & track -3.0. I also have marks on the tie-rods as increasing neg camber causes toe-out, I run zero toe both settings.

What my alignment shop did was set up the track setting, I then marked up the camber & toe-in, then they did the street setting and I marked that up at home. Changing the camber is reasonably easy, just have the front jacked up (at the jack point centre of stiffening plate) to a point where the wheels are almost but not off the ground, you're trying to have neutral load at the camber plate. When I adjust toe I have the wheel off the ground so there is no load on the tie-road.

Lastly just be mindful there is a limit to the neg camber setting if leaving the alloy brace on, screw '2' will go under the brace and become inaccessible so can't be tightened. For me that's -3 but I also had to grind off the little of the brace (& I'm lowered 10mm on Ohlins R&T). imo it's not worth the hassle if you have to unbolt the alloy brace each time,

Thanks, this was very helpful. I will be showing the alignment shop your photo of the plate so they have an idea of what I'm looking to get marked up.

Since the camber plates have measurement on them, is it an option to remember what the MM settings are for street and track or is there more benefit to marking the brace?

By the way, do you happen to have a photo of the tie rod marking as well?

Much thanks!!!

[David.m]

Originally Posted by Boba1214

Thanks, this was very helpful. I will be showing the alignment shop your photo of the plate so they have an idea of what I'm looking to get marked up.

Since the camber plates have measurement on them, is it an option to remember what the MM settings are for street and track or is there more benefit to marking the brace?

By the way, do you happen to have a photo of the tie rod marking as well?

Much thanks!!!

The manufacturer (Millway) made markings are covered by the alloy brace so are really of no value unless you unbolt the brace and move it. Any case they are only reference markings and the actual camber for a particular mark will be different according to individual setup. Having marks on the brace along with the line on the camber plate top make accurate changes in camber easy imo. The only thing to be mindful of is if removing the brace for any reason that it goes back in at the exact same position, it can vary a few mm which will in turn make the camber markings wrong.
Sorry I don't have a photo of my tie-rod marks (I used paint, masking tape again to get a straight line).

[azacad]

Hi!

I would like to add to this conversation that I am looking for camber plates as well and was about to order Millway Streets from what I read here BUT… I enquired directly with ML Performance, told them I have CS camber correction knuckles and M Performance suspension and they recommended the Race version. I am not sure if it is because of the knuckles or the M Performance springs. Might be noisier?

I mean I rather they fit well of course but if anyone has any thoughts before I pull the trigger.

Thanks.

[D.Yooras]

Originally Posted by azacad

Hi!

I would like to add to this conversation that I am looking for camber plates as well and was about to order Millway Streets from what I read here BUT… I enquired directly with ML Performance, told them I have CS camber correction knuckles and M Performance suspension and they recommended the Race version. I am not sure if it is because of the knuckles or the M Performance springs. Might be noisier?

I mean I rather they fit well of course but if anyone has any thoughts before I pull the trigger.

Thanks.

Depends on how the camber correction is done in the knuckle. There are two ways, 1) either the strut mounting section is drilled/honed 0.5 degrees off of factory or the hub mounting section is milled/machined 0.5 off of factory. If they hold the strut at a different angle than the stock knuckles, the pivot bearing with be stressed the whole time due to the angular difference of the strut. Lowering springs or coilovers make this situation even worse because the front track widens as the car is lowered (to a point).

If you find the answer about the camber knuckles you'll know the answer to why the recommend the race version (which has a spherical pivot bearing.

[azacad]

Originally Posted by D.Yooras

Depends on how the camber correction is done in the knuckle. There are two ways, 1) either the strut mounting section is drilled/honed 0.5 degrees off of factory or the hub mounting section is milled/machined 0.5 off of factory. If they hold the strut at a different angle than the stock knuckles, the pivot bearing with be stressed the whole time due to the angular difference of the strut. Lowering springs or coilovers make this situation even worse because the front track widens as the car is lowered (to a point).

If you find the answer about the camber knuckles you'll know the answer to why the recommend the race version (which has a spherical pivot bearing.

Great insight.

Well I will have to check the OEM knuckles against the CSs to determine that but right now I can say (and excuse my limited knowledge) that it seems the hub angles the wheel (-camber) towards the strut (beacuse it is rubbing against the spring) so I am going to guess that whatever the difference is seems to be the angle at the hub. I am trying to put a spacer to clear the spring then get camber to clear the outer part of the fender liner… well and of course get a better alignement in the process. I know should have done camber plates to begin with but was trying to keep things the most “OEM” I could… but hey now those camber plates go all the way to - 4 degs! (entering the rabbit hole) Might as well use slicks.

Thanks for the help.

[D.Yooras]

Originally Posted by azacad

Great insight.

Well I will have to check the OEM knuckles against the CSs to determine that but right now I can say (and excuse my limited knowledge) that it seems the hub angles the wheel (-camber) towards the strut (beacuse it is rubbing against the spring) so I am going to guess that whatever the difference is seems to be the angle at the hub. I am trying to put a spacer to clear the spring then get camber to clear the outer part of the fender liner… well and of course get a better alignement in the process. I know should have done camber plates to begin with but was trying to keep things the most “OEM” I could… but hey now those camber plates go all the way to - 4 degs! (entering the rabbit hole) Might as well use slicks.

Thanks for the help.

For the record, the E46 M3 CSL had different knuckles than the standard model with camber or caster correction (can't remember) that was achieved through boring the strut mount at a different angle. Trouble is, both of those methods have the same affects on geometry in regards to alignment angles and wheel/tire clearance.

If you're looking to keep things OEM-ish, you could also use offset lower control bushings. Since the factory ones are already spherical, having offset aftermarket ones shouldn't have any noticeable affects on NVH.

[azacad]

Originally Posted by D.Yooras

For the record, the E46 M3 CSL had different knuckles than the standard model with camber or caster correction (can't remember) that was achieved through boring the strut mount at a different angle. Trouble is, both of those methods have the same affects on geometry in regards to alignment angles and wheel/tire clearance.

If you're looking to keep things OEM-ish, you could also use offset lower control bushings. Since the factory ones are already spherical, having offset aftermarket ones shouldn't have any noticeable affects on NVH.

After reading on all this I am inclined to put back the OEM knuckles and get the Street version. The original purpose was to avoid plates and noise but if I AM gonna need CPs on a “street/track” application (I am looking for - 2.5 degs, -3 max). might as well get the street version, less noise and no (or less) uncertainty on geometry problems and potential stress on the parts.

[Krelle]

Attention those in love with MILLWAY camber plates.
Camber plates Street for BMW M2C, M2CS, M3 and M4 & M2 F87 + NEW! Street version with polyurethane bushings. Reduces noise from suspension and tires compared to uniball version. Fits all suspensions. (-3 degree)
Their camber plates capable of adjusting up to -4 degree of camber on max. as well as the Street version isn't available before June 14, 2023.

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by Krelle

Attention those in love with MILLWAY camber plates.
Camber plates Street for BMW M2C, M2CS, M3 and M4 & M2 F87 + NEW! Street version with polyurethane bushings. Reduces noise from suspension and tires compared to uniball version. Fits all suspensions. (-3 degree)
Their camber plates capable of adjusting up to -4 degree of camber on max. as well as the Street version isn't available before June 14, 2023.

Will the new version avoid the need to grind the strut tower brace to get more than -2.5?

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by Krelle

Attention those in love with MILLWAY camber plates.
Camber plates Street for BMW M2C, M2CS, M3 and M4 & M2 F87 + NEW! Street version with polyurethane bushings. Reduces noise from suspension and tires compared to uniball version. Fits all suspensions. (-3 degree)
Their camber plates capable of adjusting up to -4 degree of camber on max. as well as the Street version isn't available before June 14, 2023.

Just got a few of these in stock today, they will go fast.

[Krelle]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

Will the new version avoid the need to grind the strut tower brace to get more than -2.5?

I'll inform you when I get them installed.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

Will the new version avoid the need to grind the strut tower brace to get more than -2.5?

What if you are able to run a shallow or long reach top nut so you don't have that top nut to tower/tower brace interference?

On the Vorshlag plates the top nut clears the brace at max camber setting.

[David.m]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

Will the new version avoid the need to grind the strut tower brace to get more than -2.5?

I think the reference to "new" on their website is old & from when these were first released, the stock coming in June may be just re-stocking rather than a new design (website photo still shows the old design).

[David.m]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

What if you are able to run a shallow or long reach top nut so you don't have that top nut to tower/tower brace interference?

On the Vorshlag plates the top nut clears the brace at max camber setting.

It's not the top nut that's an issue but one of the camber plate adjustment screws on the Millway Street version which goes under the brace around 2.5 or more neg camber (I posted a photo on prev page).

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by David.m

It's not the top nut that's an issue but one of the camber plate adjustment screws on the Millway Street version which goes under the brace around 2.5 or more neg camber (I posted a photo on prev page).

A top ring would solve the issue with that design.