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      12-10-2016, 12:11 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluenose-2er View Post
Reviving this thread as I have a related question... and winter is upon us.

I seem to be finding mixed (i.e. opposing) advice/opinions on whether you should start your car periodically when stored. Some say yeah. Others say (including some in this thread) no way.

I would appreciate further comment on this specific question. I know that if you start it is very important to let it run until up all the way to operating temp - so that you don't leave condensation to settle in various spots. But I am still not clear on the bigger - to run, or not to run - question.

Thoughts?
I'm in the same boat. I have a total of 8 carpet squares (2 for each tire), a CTEK 4.3 MUS Test and Charge Battery Maintainer (more features for alternator, voltage, starter testing), and I'm unsure how much I will actually drive it (no snow tires). I live in Pennsylvania and our winters can sometimes be hit or miss, but it does get cold. If I do take the car out, it will be for a 5 or 10 mile drive at lower speeds (rural driving).

The question I have is should I over inflate the tires? Should I use Sta-bil? If the snow is minimal this year, I could take the car out every 10-15 days and drive it for about 10 minutes. Do I need to winterize? I know that I do need to be careful as the PSS tires aren't rated for under 40 degrees, so I'm not looking to push the car in any way and will most likely just getting the car up to temperature for about 10 minutes. If there is snow/salt, I will most likely leave it parked for a good while. I'm just totally unsure what to do as it really depends on various factors (temp/precip). Anyone have anymore insight?
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      12-10-2016, 12:22 PM   #24
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I've stored my 1M for the last couple of years over the winter.
1. Never touched the tires, just parked it. Did not over inflate, but made sure they were at the right pressure.
2. Kept the Ctek on it the whole time.
3. Tried to fill gas as much as possible - never used stabil
4. On those nice days with no snow - after maybe a rain has washed all the salt away, I would take it out and get it nice and warm. I'm sure it was probably in the 30s or 40s when I did this.
5. Then put back with charger on until the next time.

I probably only got it out once a winter.

Today's tires really don't flat spot IMHO (and when they did, they were fine within a few miles) and the thought of putting stabil int he tank never sat well with me. Then again, I did try to drive it as much as possible to go through that tank of fuel come spring.

I honestly think sometimes we over think this stuff
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      12-10-2016, 12:28 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug_999 View Post
I've stored my 1M for the last couple of years over the winter.
1. Never touched the tires, just parked it. Did not over inflate, but made sure they were at the right pressure.
2. Kept the Ctek on it the whole time.
3. Tried to fill gas as much as possible - never used stabil
4. On those nice days with no snow - after maybe a rain has washed all the salt away, I would take it out and get it nice and warm. I'm sure it was probably in the 30s or 40s when I did this.
5. Then put back with charger on until the next time.

I probably only got it out once a winter.

Today's tires really don't flat spot IMHO (and when they did, they were fine within a few miles) and the thought of putting stabil int he tank never sat well with me. Then again, I did try to drive it as much as possible to go through that tank of fuel come spring.

I honestly think sometimes we over think this stuff
Thanks for the insight, this is what I was thinking of doing. If I'm going to possibly drive it at least once every two weeks or so, I'd rather not over inflate the tires. I'd say it might get 40-50 miles on it in the next 3 months and it will be on my CTEK maintainer. I also have those carpet squares as "extra protection" as far as flat spotting goes. I know I'm overthinking this, but I overthink everything, lol. Hopefully it's a mild winter and barely any snow in the lower northeast.
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      12-10-2016, 01:29 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluenose-2er View Post
Reviving this thread as I have a related question... and winter is upon us.

I seem to be finding mixed (i.e. opposing) advice/opinions on whether you should start your car periodically when stored. Some say yeah. Others say (including some in this thread) no way.

I would appreciate further comment on this specific question. I know that if you start it is very important to let it run until up all the way to operating temp - so that you don't leave condensation to settle in various spots. But I am still not clear on the bigger - to run, or not to run - question.

Thoughts?
Starting it will be fine, let it get up to operating Temps, oil at around 100 and then shut it down, shouldn't take more than 10-15min. It's good to run the engine as it gets the oil moving and stops seals drying up, sensors getting fouled, keeps the chain oiled and gets the fuel system moving which is important.

There is an argument that oil will not get around the engine due to it not being at operating pressure when idling but look at it like this, how many daily commutes start car, drive a short distance then sit in traffic idling for sometimes hours! Also, think of a generator or similar, it starts and idles forever ... I have a 1981 Honda generator and its still going. It's no different to starting in the garage and letting it idle. Get it warm do some light revs to get oil pressure up and leave it.
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      12-11-2016, 05:09 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiysersosae View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluenose-2er View Post
Reviving this thread as I have a related question... and winter is upon us.

I seem to be finding mixed (i.e. opposing) advice/opinions on whether you should start your car periodically when stored. Some say yeah. Others say (including some in this thread) no way.

I would appreciate further comment on this specific question. I know that if you start it is very important to let it run until up all the way to operating temp - so that you don't leave condensation to settle in various spots. But I am still not clear on the bigger - to run, or not to run - question.

Thoughts?
Starting it will be fine, let it get up to operating Temps, oil at around 100 and then shut it down, shouldn't take more than 10-15min. It's good to run the engine as it gets the oil moving and stops seals drying up, sensors getting fouled, keeps the chain oiled and gets the fuel system moving which is important.

There is an argument that oil will not get around the engine due to it not being at operating pressure when idling but look at it like this, how many daily commutes start car, drive a short distance then sit in traffic idling for sometimes hours! Also, think of a generator or similar, it starts and idles forever ... I have a 1981 Honda generator and its still going. It's no different to starting in the garage and letting it idle. Get it warm do some light revs to get oil pressure up and leave it.
10-15 minutes is not enough. If your going to do that don't bother. I run my cars for an hour maybe once a month. That gets it hot enough 200 ish for coolant and 190-210 for the oil.
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      12-11-2016, 05:32 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David1 View Post
10-15 minutes is not enough. If your going to do that don't bother. I run my cars for an hour maybe once a month. That gets it hot enough 200 ish for coolant and 190-210 for the oil.
It was approximately! I said ensure the oil gets up to operating temp, which is the key bit, if it takes longer run it longer. Water obviously will get up to temp before oil. And 100 for me is 100 deg c, im from the UK
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      12-11-2016, 11:06 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiysersosae View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by David1 View Post
10-15 minutes is not enough. If your going to do that don't bother. I run my cars for an hour maybe once a month. That gets it hot enough 200 ish for coolant and 190-210 for the oil.
It was approximately! I said ensure the oil gets up to operating temp, which is the key bit, if it takes longer run it longer. Water obviously will get up to temp before oil. And 100 for me is 100 deg c, im from the UK
Ok, can't tell folks location while reading from the app.
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      12-11-2016, 08:10 PM   #30
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Do not store your car on jackstands as mentioned earlier in this thread. Wheels / tires suspended for extended periods is not good for the suspension components.

Change oil and filter, add stabilizer, top off tank, park on carpet runners, over fill tires once at storage destination, close all windows, use trickle charger, move car a few inches every 3-4 weeks to prevent flat spotting. If there is the possibility of rodents, cap exhaust ends and put a big sticker on your steering wheel so you remember you did that. Two different thought processes on starting. I believe starting and running the engine until fully warm every few weeks.
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      12-12-2016, 06:29 PM   #31
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Quick question for those of you with CTEK chargers (4.3 MUS) and in cold weather...Do you use the snowflake mode for the winter? I'm not sure how many times it will get under 41 Degrees being that winter weather can vary in Pennsylvania (It will definitely get that cold outside and on extremely cold days will get that low in my garage). What I don't understand is that the Automobile mode is rated for the same low temperature -4 Degrees Fahrenheit and goes up to 120 Degrees, while snowflake mode goes from -4 to 41. This would be the first time I've used this charger, so just looking for any insight.

Edit: I looked quick on Realoem and it appears as if the M2 has an AGM battery, so I'd use the snowflake mode regardless of temperature, so it seems. Can anyone confirm? I'm probably going to throw it on the charger here in the next few days as it looks like its going to get pretty cold.

Last edited by MTHRAR; 12-12-2016 at 08:50 PM..
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      12-12-2016, 08:25 PM   #32
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Is there a science with plugging in battery tenders? I have never dealt with one and the last thing I want is to overcharge the m2 battery. I just purchased a Dellran battery tender before seeing this thread(dumb me) sorry if I sound ignorant but better to be safe than sorry!
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      12-13-2016, 02:30 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AYurch View Post
Is there a science with plugging in battery tenders? I have never dealt with one and the last thing I want is to overcharge the m2 battery. I just purchased a Dellran battery tender before seeing this thread(dumb me) sorry if I sound ignorant but better to be safe than sorry!
Just shut the car off, don't plug in the tender, wire it up to car (negative first) then power up and leave it. Mine took a whole night before it went onto trickle status
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      12-13-2016, 07:30 PM   #34
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Here is what I received from BMWCCA.ORG
The winter storage blues
https://www.bmwcca.org/forum/index.p...e-blues.11616/
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      12-13-2016, 07:58 PM   #35
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E-Brake during storage.

I didn't set my e-brake, my car was outside for a few days with it on and you when I went to use it you could hear the snap of the brakes releasing after the car started rolling.
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      12-13-2016, 08:54 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAM_E90_F87
Here is what I received from BMWCCA.ORG
The winter storage blues
https://www.bmwcca.org/forum/index.p...e-blues.11616/
great find. though some of those tips are probably not necessary on newer cars.
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      12-19-2016, 11:10 AM   #37
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So far, I'm doing fine just packing my car in Road Salt and Ice.....LOL...heated steering wheel is very nice, sport plus in the snow is a must see.

Mike
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      12-19-2016, 11:32 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTHRAR View Post
Q
Edit: I looked quick on Realoem and it appears as if the M2 has an AGM battery, so I'd use the snowflake mode regardless of temperature, so it seems. Can anyone confirm? I'm probably going to throw it on the charger here in the next few days as it looks like its going to get pretty cold.
That is correct - use the snowflake for an AGM battery.
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      12-19-2016, 04:54 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devo View Post
Do not store your car on jackstands as mentioned earlier in this thread. Wheels / tires suspended for extended periods is not good for the suspension components.
Interested to understand why this would not be good as apposed to leaving 1.5ton vehicle sitting on the suspension (I know it's distributed between the 4 corners)
I've done it for years without issue. I just lift up so the wheel is just off the ground and no more.
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      12-19-2016, 06:12 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiysersosae View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by devo View Post
Do not store your car on jackstands as mentioned earlier in this thread. Wheels / tires suspended for extended periods is not good for the suspension components.
Interested to understand why this would not be good as apposed to leaving 1.5ton vehicle sitting on the suspension (I know it's distributed between the 4 corners)
I've done it for years without issue. I just lift up so the wheel is just off the ground and no more.
The modern BMW has preloaded suspension bushings. When you let the suspension hang you torque up the bushings. Keeping the weight on them keeps them in their resting state. Weight on the tires makes no difference either. Once a performance tire gets driven on or heat cycled, storing them in the cold shortens the life anyways. Even at half tread and say 4 years old they get harder and loose grip. I have had tires with only 5k miles at 4 years old that were junk from a performance point of view. Many new ultra performance tires come with a warning to not store them in the cold. All of my cars for 30 years are stored on the tires never on jack stands.
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      01-02-2017, 10:26 PM   #41
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Mayhaps this will help:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...Winter+storage
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      10-31-2017, 10:09 AM   #42
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https://www.bmwcca.org/forum/index.p...e-blues.11616/
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      10-31-2017, 06:07 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David1 View Post
Once a performance tire gets driven on or heat cycled, storing them in the cold shortens the life anyways.
Isn’t this an argument for taking off the ultra high performance tires (like RE71Rs) and leaving the crappy continentals on over winter (unless you are one of the luck ones with MPSS).

I store all 16 race tires in the house over winter (much to my wife’s chagrin). I also wrap them as they disperse harmful vapor over winter.
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      10-31-2017, 07:43 PM   #44
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Instead of driving the car around whenever there's no snow or sale. I opted for a CTEK charger so I don't have to worry about it.

Thanks, doug_999 for suggesting the CTEK!

This is actually my first time using a battery charger/tender.

As someone who struggles following instructions [phew] this was easy!

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