[Track/S]

Originally Posted by SCMTX

Update # 2...

So.... track brakes up front and the ability to run 18" wheels....a $10k proposition? Or, just replace rotors and pads more frequently? Giro disks @1400/pair + DTC 60s up front for <$400.

Typing this out, I know my answer. It comes down to afordability for me...Giro disks it is.

I hope this info helps someone with their decisions/delima.

It is not necessary to spend 10k, buy paragonbrakes 380x36mm discs with custom brackets you can use 18 rim.

[SCMTX]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

He posted the full product page up above guys.

Since he says he used 6 lb springs, it would be these: https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/p...ducts_id=22047

Those are correct.

Updated review. My front Hawk DCT60s are about 70% worn. Running the GiroDisk rotors front and rear. The stock fronts were not lasting long before developing cracks. So far, I occasionally notice a VERY SLIGHTLY longer pedal travel SOMETIMES. I really can’t believe these things are working.

[SCMTX]

Originally Posted by OG Shark

A little heads up on this part BEFORE next time I ride with you please

Yeah, yeah, yeah, they were fine at that time…. A PCA event might have questioned them😬 It’s not like it was COTA

[DrChase]

Originally Posted by Track/S

It is not necessary to spend 10k, buy paragonbrakes 380x36mm discs with custom brackets you can use 18 rim.

Does any vendor sell pre-fabricated brackets? If not, who’s the go-to for brackets? I’m on my third set of square 275/30r19 RT660s and desperately want to try some other options, but I need 18” size in order to run a wider variety of 200TW.

On another note, I’ll be trying the StopTech springs! Been annoyed by having to do left-foot brake tapping after every moderate to hard lateral G turn on track.

[DrChase]

Originally Posted by SCMTX

Update # 2...

The StopTech anti-knockback springs solved that problem. No issues and didn't notice any pedal differences or feel over the course of two track days at two different tracks, both high lateral g's and plenty rough enough.

Now of course, my problem is my front rotors are cracking pretty bad around the holes. Bad enough that someone paying attention probably wouldn't let me on track.

So.... track brakes up front and the ability to run 18" wheels....a $10k proposition? Or, just replace rotors and pads more frequently? Giro disks @1400/pair + DTC 60s up front for <$400.

Typing this out, I know my answer. It comes down to afordability for me...Giro disks it is.

I hope this info helps someone with their decisions/delima.

So, did the anti-knockback springs introduce a lot of noticeable drag? Is the difference in rotor wear pretty obvious? I see the 6lb StopTech springs are on backorder, so I thought I might try the 1.5lb springs, hoping it’d help with knockback but not create too much drag for street use.

[SCMTX]

Originally Posted by DrChase

So, did the anti-knockback springs introduce a lot of noticeable drag? Is the difference in rotor wear pretty obvious? I see the 6lb StopTech springs are on backorder, so I thought I might try the 1.5lb springs, hoping it’d help with knockback but not create too much drag for street use.

I don't think the drag is really noticable. I can feel the drag at times, in and around neutral with my foot off the brake. On pretty much any incline the car will still roll though. With the front wheels off it's pretty difficult to spin the rotor though....this is where I really notice drag.

Honestly, I don't know if the 1.5# spring will do it. I'd still try it though, it's a pretty quick and easy job especially if you have a pressure bleeder. What I noticed was the pistons didn't slide in and out and easily as I thought they would when I pulled them out and put them back in. Idk what I was expecting....ball bearing smooth? but it wasn't that. I think these rotors are just so large (I'm using the Girodisks in stock 400mm size) they must be moving quite a bit.
If you go to 1:25 in this video, from this point until the end of the straight, I used to have a lot of pedal travel (especially if I got too much curb coming onto the straight)...now it's just like going from stoplight to stoplight. As the pads weardown to 1/3 of their life the knockback starts to creep back in, but nothing like it used to be. The C8 was on new 100tw tires, suspension, swaybars, etc. I was on two day old 200tw Nankang CRS V2, OG Shark/Inertia Nitron R1s and a whiteline front sway bar on the middle setting.

[M1500Z]

Originally Posted by SCMTX

I don't think the drag is really noticable. I can feel the drag at times, in and around neutral with my foot off the brake. On pretty much any incline the car will still roll though. With the front wheels off it's pretty difficult to spin the rotor though....this is where I really notice drag.

Honestly, I don't know if the 1.5# spring will do it. I'd still try it though, it's a pretty quick and easy job especially if you have a pressure bleeder.

The drag on APs (7# spring I believe) is decent and it can be a little annoying at times, but it is absolutely worth it to have brakes that are consistent in feel and and travel. I don't feel 1.5# would be sufficient.

SCMTX , I was looking at your videos and came across myself 😝. That WRL event is a lot of fun, I'm hoping to do it again this year.

[DrChase]

Thank you for these helpfully testaments to the antiknockback spring experience. I’m not too optimistic about the 1.5lb springs making a major difference. I’ve been resigned to using left foot taps several times throughout every lap in order to keep my pedal travel consistent. I’m trying to keep my discipline about driver mod first and foremost. My fastest track (proportionally speaking) is Streets of Willow and I’m still only in high 1:23** territory but my car has 1:20** in it if a high-tier time trial pro we’re to drive it as is.

How are the CR-S? How are they in heat and extended lapping? I’m eager to try them in 265/30r19 since RT660 are proving a bit fragile. V2 CR-S look to be expensive in 19” sizes!