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      07-20-2017, 07:06 PM   #1
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Best Explanation of Oil Types (Dispelling Myths About Oil by /Drive)

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Hands down, this is the absolute best explanation of oils of all types. You may think it's a commercial since it is presented by Red Line, but trust me, it's not. It's just great info on a much misunderstood topic.

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      07-20-2017, 07:20 PM   #2
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Oh no, this thread is going to explode! Good video though.
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      07-28-2017, 10:54 AM   #3
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Posted this in December. Some might call me a trend setter.
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      07-28-2017, 10:59 AM   #4
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Excellent video.

I wish he had spoken more about the type weights needed for high horsepower applications, such as 1,000hp or more.

Also, can anyone speak on fuel injector cleaners? Are these essentially the same as what he was talking about with fuel additives? Does anybody have any experience with good fuel injector cleaners?
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      07-28-2017, 11:01 AM   #5
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Three comments

#1. The presenter correctly avoided comparing Group 3+ because most high performance oils contain them in some percentage as an additive carrier or as major component.

#2. Per UOAs on BITOG Redline motor oils in the past were usually spent at 7500 miles in BMWs.

#3. Base stock is just one piece of the puzzle. Most currently certified motor oils contain a mixture of G3/4/5 as their base. Racing oils are a different animal because they don't have the additives required for daily driving.

Interesting commercial piece.
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      07-28-2017, 11:45 AM   #6
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Jalopnik just did an oil article because Blackstone recently did a study...

http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/why-ex...ney-1797241527

What do they say about current oils, if one is just daily driving their cars?

BTW, I've got a 2007 Camry (DD) with over 250K miles on it... I've been beating the crap out of it for years and have always used the cheapest oil I could find on the shelves at Wally World. I've been doing the oil changes between 5 and 6K miles... Basically when I get the maintenance light.

The cars was up for a recall because of oil burning... Never had it done so it does burn oil... If I don't add oil, I'd say I'm about 2 quarts low when I change it. Still the engine keeps going and going... Feels strong too. Can Toyota engines really take the abuse of running low on oil? Mine seems too..

I guess I'm asking if this redline video is over hyped...
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      07-28-2017, 11:53 AM   #7
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As one of the comments in the article pointed out, show me longer intervals past 3-4000 miles which is what our cars generally run. I went 6500 miles between oil service (using the CBS) and took it in because a year came up rather than the oil service indicator. I'm sure Blackstone (not knocking them) prefers seeing samples come in 3-4K miles as it's more revenue for them than if the public waits double the miles..........
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      07-28-2017, 11:56 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabu2 View Post
Jalopnik just did an oil article because Blackstone recently did a study...

http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/why-ex...ney-1797241527

What's that say about current oils if one is just daily driving their cars?

BTW, I've got a 2007 Camry (DD) with over 250K miles on it... I've been beating the crap out of it for years and have always used the cheapest oil I could find on the shelves at Wally World. I've been doing the oil changes between 5 and 6K miles... Basically when I get the maintenance light.

The cars was up for a recall because of oil burning... Never had it done so it does burn oil... If I don't add oil, I'd say I'm about 2 quarts low when I change it. Still the engine keeps going and going... Feels strong too. Can Toyota engines really take the abuse of running low on oil? Mine seems too..

I guess I'm asking if this redline video is over hyped...
Bravo for Nippon motors! Third plus owner of Corolla w/220K miles. Mine burns oil so I add oil every week. Going strong.
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      07-28-2017, 01:19 PM   #9
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My AMG burns about a qt every 2-3k miles or so but that's known/expected for the 5.5. I just look at it as keeping fresh oil in her between changes! Lol but been religious 0W-40 per the MB spec upon the car being built. But if I took it to the dealer I know they wouldn't put 0W-40 in her. I'm at 125k miles on her and not a single engine issue over the life of the car and i drive quite hard.
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      07-28-2017, 02:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabu2
Jalopnik just did an oil article because Blackstone recently did a study...

http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/why-ex...ney-1797241527

What do they say about current oils, if one is just daily driving their cars?

BTW, I've got a 2007 Camry (DD) with over 250K miles on it... I've been beating the crap out of it for years and have always used the cheapest oil I could find on the shelves at Wally World. I've been doing the oil changes between 5 and 6K miles... Basically when I get the maintenance light.

The cars was up for a recall because of oil burning... Never had it done so it does burn oil... If I don't add oil, I'd say I'm about 2 quarts low when I change it. Still the engine keeps going and going... Feels strong too. Can Toyota engines really take the abuse of running low on oil? Mine seems too..

I guess I'm asking if this redline video is over hyped...
IMO people don't understand that oil performance is rated as a function of wear over time.

This is why synthetic doesn't perform better on short intervals (< 4k miles) vs non-synthetic.
People make up all sorts of reasons to justify shorter intervals but it's mostly bullsh!t.
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      07-28-2017, 04:43 PM   #11
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ugh.. an 18 minute video on oil.. Can't... justify.. watching..
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      07-28-2017, 06:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m981addicts View Post
Bravo for Nippon motors! Third plus owner of Corolla w/220K miles. Mine burns oil so I add oil every week. Going strong.

05 RAV4 with over 208K miles. 2AZFE motor is pretty good. It burns about 2 quarts per change and was never included in toyotas motor recall.
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      07-28-2017, 09:50 PM   #13
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Well at least my 100,000 miles of BMW oil changes were free....I burned oil the first 5k and then it was all good.

I've paid for 4 changes before each HPDE season because it just makes sense to have fresh oil before I flog it during the summer.

My wife's RDX (2010) takes synthetic 5w-30 Mobil 1-$110 per change, and I drive 120 miles back to the original dealer because I got free oil changes for life #worthit (just hit 122,000 miles).
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      07-30-2017, 10:41 AM   #14
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The blip on "fuel additives" and gas was interesting. Great post!!!!
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      07-30-2017, 12:04 PM   #15
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Cool video! I learned quite a few things.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but do you guys know what "group" of engine oil BMW puts in our cars (M2 in my case)?
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      07-30-2017, 12:54 PM   #16
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      07-30-2017, 10:08 PM   #17
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On my 2012 X5, I did 1200 break in like my M car and did 1/2 cycle oil changes around 7k miles on the V8 turbo. BMW did 1 or 2 other changes due to the warranty/recall work on the V8. It was burning 1 qt every 500-750 miles so BMW did warranty valve guide seals.

The Tech who pulled the valve covers off had to double check the year and mileage and make sure this was the car he had to do guide seals on because he never saw a x5 motor look so clean. Zero sludge in the top end of the motor. He said he had done about 15 guide seals when he did mine. That says something about proper length of time on oil changes. My SA actually took pictures and sent them to me.
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      07-31-2017, 01:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabu2 View Post
Jalopnik just did an oil article because Blackstone recently did a study...

http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/why-ex...ney-1797241527

What do they say about current oils, if one is just daily driving their cars?

BTW, I've got a 2007 Camry (DD) with over 250K miles on it... I've been beating the crap out of it for years and have always used the cheapest oil I could find on the shelves at Wally World. I've been doing the oil changes between 5 and 6K miles... Basically when I get the maintenance light.

The cars was up for a recall because of oil burning... Never had it done so it does burn oil... If I don't add oil, I'd say I'm about 2 quarts low when I change it. Still the engine keeps going and going... Feels strong too. Can Toyota engines really take the abuse of running low on oil? Mine seems too..

I guess I'm asking if this redline video is over hyped...
Well, if we take the Red Line video at face value, then we can say no, it isn't over-hyped, because he said nothing about running higher classes of oils in your crap-can DD. Pretty specifically, he addressed the behavior of oils at specific operating temperatures, and in track-use scenarios.

Basically, the advice in this video is pretty tightly focused on people who use their cars in a performance context. There was some talk about high-mileage motor oil, but that portion of the video seemed really focused on explaining why you shouldn't run that in your LeMons or ChumpCar engine.

Think of the Jalopnik article as additional information. The vast majority of people do not track their cars, and therefore demand very little from their engine oil. A 250K service life isn't a whole lot to ask from a modern automotive engine. Engineering and manufacturing technology is so advanced, that the modern engine, when driven at a day-to-day pace lives a relatively low stress life. Any engine that can't reach that service lifespan had some kind of design defect.
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      07-31-2017, 10:16 PM   #19
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I don't know, as someone who reads the bobistheoilguy.com forums, I thought it was a bit light on detail.

I am also not sure that their broad characterization of the different group base stocks is totally accurate. RL has a vested interest in pushing their oil, and Group V base stocks are their "thing".

They also didn't do a great job of explaining that while a 0W-30 is a 0 at 0C and a 30 at 100C, the "0" rating is not a fixed viscosity, it's a point on a curve. Even at cold temps, a 0W-30 is never thinner than it is at 100C, so it can't possibly be too thin if a 30 is the correct weight at operating temperature.
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      08-01-2017, 07:24 AM   #20
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Viscosity / Density over Temp

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris719 View Post
I don't know, as someone who reads the bobistheoilguy.com forums, I thought it was a bit light on detail.

I am also not sure that their broad characterization of the different group base stocks is totally accurate. RL has a vested interest in pushing their oil, and Group V base stocks are their "thing".

They also didn't do a great job of explaining that while a 0W-30 is a 0 at 0C and a 30 at 100C, the "0" rating is not a fixed viscosity, it's a point on a curve. Even at cold temps, a 0W-30 is never thinner than it is at 100C, so it can't possibly be too thin if a 30 is the correct weight at operating temperature.
The viscosity and density of a 30W is tested at 100C - Yes. Although, both viscosity and density continue to drop (oil gets thinner) as the temp increases. The curve flattens but it certainly gets thinner at say 110C vs 100C. My BMW oil temp runs around 230F-240F not the 212F (100C) as tested. Therefore , I chose 5W-40 to help accommodate the higher oil temps and DI fuel dilution.
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      08-01-2017, 02:21 PM   #21
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My sister's dd '98 'Rolla has 265k miles. Regular oil, scheduled maintenance. Runs like a top
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      08-09-2017, 02:06 PM   #22
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Thank you for your interest, everyone! There's no doubt that we could dive so deep into oil tech that the video would end up being a day long, but our goal for this one was to touch on the most important topics and keep the video at a watchable length. If anyone has questions or would like more in-depth explanations about anything covered in this video, we would be happy to elaborate!
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