[dammitcubs]

Probably going to have to revisit this topic in about a month. I think i learned a lot of what is posted but need to make sure I'm not doing something stupid during the break in.

This was actually be my first NEW car i have ever bought - i never liked buying new but I made an exception.

[Yellowflash21]

You're not alone buddy!

[///M2-PILOT]

What sticks out to me in all these scenarios is to vary the load. I have owned a few new vehicles, cars and bikes and have always varied the load without abrupt full throttle bursts and have never had a problem.

I do want to point out that new tire have a mold release on them and it makes them slick as shit for the first 100 miles or so. This being said keep it in mind when throttling up, especially on a bike. I saw on guy leaving the dealership and high sided his brand new Ducati 1198, even though I know the dealer told him easy on the throttle new rear is slick as shit!

[W///]

Originally Posted by dammitcubs

Probably going to have to revisit this topic in about a month. I think i learned a lot of what is posted but need to make sure I'm not doing something stupid during the break in.

This was actually be my first NEW car i have ever bought - i never liked buying new but I made an exception.

I wouldn't baby the thing, but I'd keep it within the parameters BMW tells you to. And of course, make sure the car is properly warmed up, to me, this is the most important thing.

[RingMeister01]

Originally Posted by M2PILOT

What sticks out to me in all these scenarios is to vary the load. I have owned a few new vehicles, cars and bikes and have always varied the load without abrupt full throttle bursts and have never had a problem.

I do want to point out that new tire have a mold release on them and it makes them slick as shit for the first 100 miles or so. This being said keep it in mind when throttling up, especially on a bike. I saw on guy leaving the dealership and high sided his brand new Ducati 1198, even though I know the dealer told him easy on the throttle new rear is slice a shit!

Good points! Another reason for the manufacturer's legal team to advise you not to f*** around early

[W///]

Originally Posted by M2PILOT

What sticks out to me in all these scenarios is to vary the load. I have owned a few new vehicles, cars and bikes and have always varied the load without abrupt full throttle bursts and have never had a problem.

I do want to point out that new tire have a mold release on them and it makes them slick as shit for the first 100 miles or so. This being said keep it in mind when throttling up, especially on a bike. I saw on guy leaving the dealership and high sided his brand new Ducati 1198, even though I know the dealer told him easy on the throttle new rear is slice a shit!

Well that would be a little embarrassing....

[Artemis]

Originally Posted by M2PILOT

What sticks out to me in all these scenarios is to vary the load. I have owned a few new vehicles, cars and bikes and have always varied the load without abrupt full throttle bursts and have never had a problem.
I do want to point out that new tire have a mold release on them and it makes them slick as shit for the first 100 miles or so. This being said keep it in mind when throttling up, especially on a bike. I saw on guy leaving the dealership and high sided his brand new Ducati 1198, even though I know the dealer told him easy on the throttle new rear is slice a shit!

Car break-in:

• letting the new mechanics bed in;
• shaving off the slippery/grease-ish new tires:
• allowing the driver to 'acclimatize' to the new car (size, behavior, handling, etc.).

See also: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Break-...ical_run-in%29

[Gearhead999s]

I have always "broke in" my vehicles by doing a fast run in.All my M cars have been broken in this way with no issues.Always had cars that had very little oil consumption and went on to have long lives with no dramas. The long break ins are more about getting the driver used to the car than any mechanical reasons. A big thing with any engine is making sure it is properly warmed up before using the power that is available and is especially important in its early life.But we really cannot control most of this as the by the time the car is your hands it will have a least 1 hour of run time which is the most critical to how an engine runs for the rest of its life.

[pruettfan]

The engine isn't the only system that needs to be broken in. Tires take some miles to get the mold release agent off so they reach full adhesion, brakes need to be bedded in properly and so on. I will be picking up my car 600 miles away in San Diego so I plan on driving it around town for a couple of days and then taking the drive home. I won't baby it entirely but won't be going wide open either. The drive home will require the patience to vary the speed. I am guessing 15-20 mins at a set speed is ok and then change it. I think they just don't want us to set the cruise and drive for 600 miles at a set speed. I am thinking I will have my 1200 mile break in done within the first week.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by pruettfan

The engine isn't the only system that needs to be broken in. Tires take some miles to get the mold release agent off so they reach full adhesion, brakes need to be bedded in properly and so on. I will be picking up my car 600 miles away in San Diego so I plan on driving it around town for a couple of days and then taking the drive home. I won't baby it entirely but won't be going wide open either. The drive home will require the patience to vary the speed. I am guessing 15-20 mins at a set speed is ok and then change it. I think they just don't want us to set the cruise and drive for 600 miles at a set speed. I am thinking I will have my 1200 mile break in done within the first week.

Good to know, will be following that 15-20 mins at set speed and not redlining or WOT. I read someone who baby'ed it for 300 miles then WOT once a day till 600 miles then 3-5 gears Redline until 1200.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by RingMeister01

You have to load the engine guys. Full throttle on and off to compress and seat the rings of the piston. Those of you who are "babying" your break-ins are doing irreparable harm to your pistons. You'll experience better gas milage and power if you vary your engine speeds and load the motor. For example, hit the highway and do 40 - 80 mph pulls at full throttle at low, mid and then higher rpm's maybe 10 times. Do an oil change and you'RE done. Thats the break-in.


FYI you do know that before any cars leaves the BMW factory ill go through a dyno pull...right?

Going to follow this Thursdays X4 M40i is here (Jr M2 lol)

[ConR]

Break-in period? Pffft. I drive my cars like their stolen right off the lot.

With laser machining, the need to slowly break things in is not really relevant anymore.

[RingMeister01]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

Going to follow this Thursdays X4 M40i is here (Jr M2 lol)

Pics please!

[Pyrat 2]

Originally Posted by MR.

Read the manual guys... It states exactly what is not allowed!

I must have missed it. Is there an M2 owners manual posted somewhere?! Sorry if I missed it. I just checked the manual on my N55 135is and it said not to exceed 4500 for the first 1200 miles. I too will be driving about 1000 miles from the performance center where I'm picking it up to home. I won't have an issue varying the speed and load but will definitely follow the top engine speed guideline.

[dammitcubs]

I'm glad that this topic is back - Our cars are coming soon!!!

[dmk08]

non-M motor no break in or break in service right? </troll>

[M3 Adjuster]

Originally Posted by dammitcubs

I'm glad that this topic is back - Our cars are coming soon!!!

Ping me if your car is being picked up in North or central Texas

[parrnan]

Originally Posted by ConR

Break-in period? Pffft. I drive my cars like their stolen right off the lot.

With laser machining, the need to slowly break things in is not really relevant anymore.

Good news that your are from Sydney so we don't risk to end up buying one of your not properly break-in cars on the pre-owned market...

[clubsport]

Regardless of what the Porsche Guy said, I know the GSM of my local Porsche store well. My car is gonna be in Va. and the following weekend after the release, SVT club has an event at VIR. That is a bucket list track for me.
So I ask Mr. GSM his thoughts about break-in...
"we all just got back from Atlanta for the new 991.2 intro. Those car all had no miles on them and we went full tilt right out of the gate."

BUT...when I went to the LA chapter Thermal club 1/2 day thing, I sat in and checked out the M2's that were there. The 3 I sat in all had over 1000 miles on them. The next day, they were introduced as new school cars.

I will be mildly aggressive, within specs.

[mmmmmazing]

I've just taken delivery of my M2 and its pretty easy to keep the revs below 5500 as the car is plenty fast in the meantime. Its easy to put on the miles or kms so before you know it the car is already due for its first service.

Launch or burn out mode is disabled until the first service anyhow.

[dammitcubs]

This topic is in FULL EFFECT MODE!!!! -- Let's make sure we treat these babies right.

[///M2-PILOT]

Originally Posted by dammitcubs

This topic is in FULL EFFECT MODE!!!! -- Let's make sure we treat these babies right.

I second that, I have a 300 mile drive home next weekend and I plan to do it right. I figure about 6 hrs of highway, back roads and plenty of loading and unloading on the mighty straight 6.