[vrooooom]

Actually Amazon's page says—Meets BMW Longlife 01, GM-LL-A-025, GM-LL-B-025, Mercedes Benz 229.1, 229.3, 229.5, Volkswagen 505.00, 502.00

[PackPride85]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

Actually Amazon's page says—Meets BMW Longlife 01, GM-LL-A-025, GM-LL-B-025, Mercedes Benz 229.1, 229.3, 229.5, Volkswagen 505.00, 502.00

0w-30 does not according to Castrol's website. 5w-30 and 5w-40 does have LL01.

[vrooooom]

My bad.

Do you guys understand the difference between the EDGE w/ Titanium and w/out? They are both w/ A3/B4 with BMW LL01, Porsche A40 and Mercedes. One says Euro Car....the other European Formula. These guys don't make it easy do they. One is 5W-40 and the other 0W-40. If you're in the tropics anyways, does it matter if you get 0 or 5W? or just get the cheaper one.

[Saintjah]

Edy, what do you think of this trend. I have been using redline 5w40 for street and spirited highway driving. My morning work commute is short, less than 5 miles typically.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by Saintjah

Edy, what do you think of this trend. I have been using redline 5w40 for street and spirited highway driving. My morning work commute is short, less than 5 miles typically.

Looks ok.
But no need for it. It sheared considerably for Redline as it starts at 15.6.
You would run something thinner like Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, Quaker State Euro 5W40, Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2.

You see silicon numbers? It is high. It is typical of track oils, and not really desirable for street driving.

[ZM2]

edycol F87source

Looks like the new 300V Competition oils are finally readily available. I haven't checked them beyond what I use (10W-40 bc of running E50 mix), but it looks like better high temp viscosity and HTHS combined with a lower pour point, and plays nicer with ethanol, particulate filters, and has more LSPI protection. Nice!

300V Competition: https://www.motul.com/fr/en/products...%5Brange%5D=25

10W-40
Old: https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.ne...pdf?1492017892
New: https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...3_20210916.pdf

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ZM2

edycol F87source

Looks like the new 300V Competition oils are finally readily available. I haven't checked them beyond what I use (10W-40 bc of running E50 mix), but it looks like better high temp viscosity and HTHS combined with a lower pour point, and plays nicer with ethanol, particulate filters, and has more LSPI protection. Nice!

300V Competition: https://www.motul.com/fr/en/products...%5Brange%5D=25

10W-40
Old: https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.ne...pdf?1492017892
New: https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...3_20210916.pdf

Man that is some good stuff! Motul never ceases to make improvements!

[edycol]

Originally Posted by ZM2

edycol F87source

Looks like the new 300V Competition oils are finally readily available. I haven't checked them beyond what I use (10W-40 bc of running E50 mix), but it looks like better high temp viscosity and HTHS combined with a lower pour point, and plays nicer with ethanol, particulate filters, and has more LSPI protection. Nice!

300V Competition: https://www.motul.com/fr/en/products...%5Brange%5D=25

10W-40
Old: https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.ne...pdf?1492017892
New: https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...3_20210916.pdf

For whatever reason I cannot open SDS, only PDS.

Excellent oil. They are using more PAO so pour point went down. Not that it matters really. Pour point is indicative of base stocks.
Based on KV100 and HTHS, there is still ester there unless they figured some trick.

[Zeese]

Originally Posted by edycol

For whatever reason I cannot open SDS, only PDS.%snip%

SDS -> Motul 300V Links All the PDF options across many languages.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by Zeese

SDS -> Motul 300V Links All the PDF options across many languages.

Idk why my phone didn't want to open.
They are bit sketchy about composition, but SDS is for first responders so they obviously don't want to share some stuff unnecessarily.
Definitely more "regular " stuff. It will result in less initial oxidation. More PAO less ester, but enough ester to keep KV100 low and very high HTHS. Values that exceptional oils have.

[ZM2]

Hey guys, what do you think of this UOA? It's 10W-40 300V used not quite like it's supposed to: E50 mix, 4K miles, one year of 4 seasons hard street driving (no commuting or short trips), 7 track days, a couple bottles of fuel injection cleaner & top cylinder lube, and tuned to 480whp.

At least the new 300V formulation (in my car now) looks slightly more "dailyable" than the old stuff like this.

Also to compare, the oldest UOA in the snip is 5W-40 300V that was too thin to use with an E50 mix and I was running the aFe dry drop in filter (have been running OE paper filter since). The middle UOA is Redline Euro 5W-40 which seemed just too thick to me (10W-40 300V is thinner).

Thanks!

[shaneguags]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Hey guys, what do you think of this UOA? It's 10W-40 300V used not quite like it's supposed to: E50 mix, 4K miles, one year of 4 seasons hard street driving (no commuting or short trips), 7 track days, a couple bottles of fuel injection cleaner & top cylinder lube, and tuned to 480whp.

At least the new 300V formulation (in my car now) looks slightly more "dailyable" than the old stuff like this.

Also to compare, the oldest UOA in the snip is 5W-40 300V that was too thin to use with an E50 mix and I was running the aFe dry drop in filter (have been running OE paper filter since). The middle UOA is Redline Euro 5W-40 which seemed just too thick to me (10W-40 300V is thinner).

Thanks!

what oil do you recommend for a flex flex E60 blend car ?

[edycol]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Hey guys, what do you think of this UOA? It's 10W-40 300V used not quite like it's supposed to: E50 mix, 4K miles, one year of 4 seasons hard street driving (no commuting or short trips), 7 track days, a couple bottles of fuel injection cleaner & top cylinder lube, and tuned to 480whp.

At least the new 300V formulation (in my car now) looks slightly more "dailyable" than the old stuff like this.

Also to compare, the oldest UOA in the snip is 5W-40 300V that was too thin to use with an E50 mix and I was running the aFe dry drop in filter (have been running OE paper filter since). The middle UOA is Redline Euro 5W-40 which seemed just too thick to me (10W-40 300V is thinner).

Thanks!

That iron is high. E50? I would go XW50. Good option is Mobil1 5W50 or Motul Sport 5W50.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by shaneguags

what oil do you recommend for a flex flex E60 blend car ?

Did you do any UOA?

[shaneguags]

Originally Posted by edycol

Did you do any UOA?

I don't understand what this means

[edycol]

Originally Posted by shaneguags

I don't understand what this means

Used Oil Analysis.
And what oil do you use now?

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Hey guys, what do you think of this UOA? It's 10W-40 300V used not quite like it's supposed to: E50 mix, 4K miles, one year of 4 seasons hard street driving (no commuting or short trips), 7 track days, a couple bottles of fuel injection cleaner & top cylinder lube, and tuned to 480whp.

At least the new 300V formulation (in my car now) looks slightly more "dailyable" than the old stuff like this.

Also to compare, the oldest UOA in the snip is 5W-40 300V that was too thin to use with an E50 mix and I was running the aFe dry drop in filter (have been running OE paper filter since). The middle UOA is Redline Euro 5W-40 which seemed just too thick to me (10W-40 300V is thinner).

Thanks!

Unless your car is spec'd from the factory to use a 10w-40 oil I can't understand why you would use a 10w-40 oil. 5w-40 or even 0w-40 oil is better for cold starts. And you live in Baltimore which means the engine sees some cold starts.

To run the oil a year with 7 track days combined with day to day usage is not advisable.

I was told by auto techs to show up at the track with fresh oil/filter in the engine.

I think you should reconsider using 10w-40 and instead using 5w-40 or if the factory sanctions it a 0w-40 oil, unless as I touched upon above unless BMW sanctions the use of a 10w-40 oil, and only 10w-40 oil, for your car's engine.

If you want to use an oil with better HTHS proection, Mobil 1 5w-50 oil, at least in my experience with Porsche cars, can be used in place of 0w-40 or 5w-40, provided -- this according to Porsche -- ambient temperature stays above -25C (-17F). And to make it clear Porsche sanctioned the use of Mobil 1 5w-50 oil as long as ambient temperatures played nice-y nice.

But of course you need to stay with what the BMW says is ok to use in your car's engine.

Not a fan of oil additives. That being said I was advised if one wanted to use an oil additive Swepco 502 oil improver was the stuff to use. If you use this be aware that one bottle may not be enough if the engine's oil capacity is above 5 quarts. A 12oz bottle only "treats" 5 quarts of oil. With my Porsche engines that held 9 quarts I used nearly 2 12oz bottles of Swepco 502.

Not a fan of fuel additives, either. But they can have their place. Well, at least one. The only fuel injection/engine deposit cleaner I'd use, have used, is Techron. If I had access to Chevron Supreme with Techron I'd fill up the fuel tank every once in while with Chevron Supreme. My experience is if Techron is going to help an engine just a tank or two of Supreme and normal driving will have the engine running noticeably better.

But be aware not all engines need Techron. Modern engines -- engines fitted with wide band O2 sensors -- are more precisely fueled and my experience is Techron does not have any noticeable effect (good or bad) on these engines.

But you can try Chevron Supreme provided of course Chevron stations are in your area.

Absent access to Chevron Supreme you can try Techron from a bottle. Get the Techron Plus. Comes in a black plastic 10oz bottle and treats 15 gallons. Be sure you use it according to directions. Also, it is advisable to change the oil/filter after the last of the gasoline treated with Techron is used up. The Techron from the bottle is powerful stuff. It doesn't burn but instead turns to vapor then as the combustion tapers off reverts back to a liquid when it comes in contact with colder surfaces in the combustion chamber. This removes deposits but also subjects the engine oil to more contamination.

A modern engine -- especially one used on the track -- the last thing it needs is contaminated/diluted oil.

If a tank of Chevron or a bottle or two of Techron helps you use Techron every so often. If this means several hundred miles before an oil change so be it.

[shaneguags]

Originally Posted by edycol

Used Oil Analysis.
And what oil do you use now?

using 5W40 Liquid Moly with Ceratec

[ZM2]

No oil additives used, and only used Techron for FI cleaner.

To be fair, 10W-40 300V is thinner than most 5W-40 oils. And 5W-40 300V (more like 0W-40 thickness) was too thin for my E50 mix and tune.

That said, I’ll look at some of the other 5W-40/50 options out there and compare to the 300V 10W-40.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by ZM2

No oil additives used, and only used Techron for FI cleaner.

To be fair, 10W-40 300V is thinner than most 5W-40 oils. And 5W-40 300V (more like 0W-40 thickness) was too thin for my E50 mix and tune.

That said, I'll look at some of the other 5W-40/50 options out there and compare to the 300V 10W-40.

300V doesn't need to be thick. It is HTHS that matters and due to base stock composition, 300V actually has higher HTHS in that KV100 than any comparable oil. But, its composition is not the best for E50.
You need Xw50 oil like Mobil1 5W50 due to alcohol dilution.
Going another 5W40 is not solution. Redline is basically closing onto 5W50 considering KV100 is 15.6cst. But esters wont do good in E50.

[ZM2]

Originally Posted by edycol

300V doesn't need to be thick. It is HTHS that matters and due to base stock composition, 300V actually has higher HTHS in that KV100 than any comparable oil. But, its composition is not the best for E50.
You need Xw50 oil like Mobil1 5W50 due to alcohol dilution.
Going another 5W40 is not solution. Redline is basically closing onto 5W50 considering KV100 is 15.6cst. But esters wont do good in E50.

Are these the two correct oils? The motul looks slightly thicker but has ester, while the KOH on the mobile 1 is quite a bit higher.

https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...n_fr_motul.pdf

https://pdfgenerator-east.exxonmobil...S-X2-5W-50?p=1

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Are these the two correct oils? The motul looks slightly thicker but has ester, while the KOH on the mobile 1 is quite a bit higher.

https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...n_fr_motul.pdf

https://pdfgenerator-east.exxonmobil...S-X2-5W-50?p=1

An ester based oil is a good oil.

Ester is also used as an additive in PAO oils to counter the detrimental effect PAO oils have on seals.

If you run an ester oil then for some reason you switch away from an ester oil the seals can shrink and then leak.

As I mentioned in previous post I was happy with Mobil 1 5w-50 oil in my stock Porsche car engines. I never raced any of the cars but drove them in some pretty harsh conditions -- triple digit heat (and sometimes at triple digit speeds...) -- with no oiling issues. 'course, I changed the oil every 5K miles but that is the schedule I have used for all car engines unless the factory called for a lower number of miles between oil changes.

Mobil 1 5w-50 oil has better HTHS index number (4.4) than Mobil 1 0w-40 oil (3.7). Motul 5w-50 has an HTHS of 4.5.