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      09-12-2017, 10:12 PM   #287
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Originally Posted by dvas View Post
Good to see you selling Collinite 845. I was lucky enough to be introduced to this wax by the detailer while working as the dealership lot boy in highschool, pre-internet days. And I still haven't personally come across a better wax.

Anyways, what product do you recommend for taking off track day rubber marks on a dark mineral gray car? And, last question, do you have any recommendations for protecting the wheels from brake dust/rubber marks and making them easier to keep clean. Ideally, I'd like a product that can last as long as the Collinite, which I typically only apply twice a year, early spring and late fall.

Thanks in advance.
this is what we have had luck on Nanolex Race Film Remover
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      09-18-2017, 11:06 PM   #288
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Do you have any recommendations on the best ceramic coating in terms of ease of maintenance / etc?
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      09-26-2017, 10:04 AM   #289
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I don't plan to use my M2 as a daily driver, but rather on the weekends only, putting less than 1,000 miles on the car annually. It'll be garaged. Have you given thought to recommendations made by The Wirecutter: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/how...ar-like-a-pro/? Here are the waxes they recommend:

- Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish,
- Nu Finish Soft Paste Car Polish, and
- Meguiar’s NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0.
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      09-26-2017, 02:57 PM   #290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZPrime View Post
Do you have any recommendations on the best ceramic coating in terms of ease of maintenance / etc?
I would consider Nanolex SIShield. It's a great DIY product and will last between 1-2 years.
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      09-26-2017, 04:56 PM   #291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornercase View Post
I don't plan to use my M2 as a daily driver, but rather on the weekends only, putting less than 1,000 miles on the car annually. It'll be garaged. Have you given thought to recommendations made by The Wirecutter: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/how...ar-like-a-pro/? Here are the waxes they recommend:

- Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish,
- Nu Finish Soft Paste Car Polish, and
- Meguiar’s NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0.
I like the Wirecutter for a lot of things, but AFAIK those products are all kind of laughed at by the pro detailing industry.

My M2 will be a daily driver and will see Cleveland winter (with the salt and brine that entails), so I want it as coated / protected as possible... I'm planning to have Xpel installed on the nose, full hood, plus larger rear quarter panel pieces to replace the stock protection there. Just trying to figure out what coating to put over the whole thing, if anything; I'm fine with a pro-installed product instead of something DIY if it will get me more longevity / durability out of the product.

I don't have a lot of free time, and when I do have it I prefer to be doing things I enjoy instead of maintaining my car's finish (washing/detailing is something I can do but it hurts my back and takes me entirely too long because I get overly obsessive with it).
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      09-26-2017, 08:30 PM   #292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZPrime View Post
I like the Wirecutter for a lot of things, but AFAIK those products are all kind of laughed at by the pro detailing industry.

My M2 will be a daily driver and will see Cleveland winter (with the salt and brine that entails), so I want it as coated / protected as possible... I'm planning to have Xpel installed on the nose, full hood, plus larger rear quarter panel pieces to replace the stock protection there. Just trying to figure out what coating to put over the whole thing, if anything; I'm fine with a pro-installed product instead of something DIY if it will get me more longevity / durability out of the product.

I don't have a lot of free time, and when I do have it I prefer to be doing things I enjoy instead of maintaining my car's finish (washing/detailing is something I can do but it hurts my back and takes me entirely too long because I get overly obsessive with it).
what would you like to see in detailing products, the clear film is definitely the way to go.
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      09-27-2017, 12:44 AM   #293
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Originally Posted by DetailersDomain View Post
what would you like to see in detailing products, the clear film is definitely the way to go.
I'd be interested in anything to help preserve the original condition of the paint and wheels. I'd be okay with a gentle patina character to develop over the next 20-30 years, but it'd be nice to keep the car pretty pristine. It will be garaged and driven as needed, probably 1,000 miles annually or less. I'm in San Francisco, so driving and parking isn't always convenient, but more often is necessary for trips outside of the city.

I, too, am looking at Xpel Ultimate on the front bumper, hood, mirrors, door handles, door seam, rear fenders and top rear bumper for trunk loading / unloading. It seems that to cover the entire car would be more than double this cost, $6,000-7,000, compared to around $2,500-3,400.

Under what circumstance should I consider ceramic coating? And does this go below the PPF or above the PPF?

Lastly, what are the coatings for the wheels? I've seen people talk about powders, but I'm unfamiliar with these types of products for the wheels.
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      09-27-2017, 10:35 AM   #294
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Well, I haven't received much of a response from the new thread so I'll post the question here. I believe DD caries this product so maybe they'll respond..

Modesta BC-08? Seeking opinions from detailers and customers

Modesta has an "entry level" coating called BC-08 that runs about as much as the pro coatings from other suppliers, about $1000 in my area. They advertise it for loaners, DDs, and older vehicles. I've seen it described as a 3-year+ product. I can't seem to find reviews on the intertubes. Anyone have experience with this product? A lot of high-end detailers carry it, some that also carry the usual suspects.

Also, does anyone have experience recoating a vehicle. Does the old product need to be sanded off to get new coating to function correctly? Is is removed chemically? Or is it just polished/corrected before a new coating goes on? Do you have to use the same brand on a recoat for best results? Just trying to avoid surprises later. Lots of questions...
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      09-28-2017, 07:57 AM   #295
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BC08 is an entry level product from Modesta it's a good one, which shop are you going to?
You will know when you will need to recoat in 2-3 years the product will eventually wear out. You probably will need to correct the paint to get it ready for a recoat we have done this process in the past and it's common and standard procedure. Most reputable shops will be able to handle it.
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      09-28-2017, 08:33 AM   #296
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      09-28-2017, 11:30 AM   #297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DetailersDomain View Post
BC08 is an entry level product from Modesta it's a good one, which shop are you going to?
You will know when you will need to recoat in 2-3 years the product will eventually wear out. You probably will need to correct the paint to get it ready for a recoat we have done this process in the past and it's common and standard procedure. Most reputable shops will be able to handle it.
Thanks for the info on the recoat. So we're talking full cost every 2-3 years and maybe more if sanding is needed. But it's done regularly by detailers and not a proble. Great! Sounds like a longer lasting product may be worth it. But let me give you more info. Maybe I'm not the right candidate for a coating. btw- There are a bunch of good shops in the DC/Baltimore/Philly area.

I will be using the car as a DD or 3-4 days driver, track it on occasion (with track tires and pads), and drive about 6-7K a year. I know I'm not going to be a two-bucket guy every weekend. I want to make the car relatively easy to maintain. I'm going to drive it when it rains. I'm not going home and drying it off afterwards. But I don't want the wheels to become so covered with dust that they can't be easily cleaned (so a separate wheel coating) and I want to get back a good shine after a washing, protect the paint from birds, resin, tar, acids, and other environmental damage as best I can. It will be garaged at home and at work.

Maybe a coating is not the best choice. I was considering Modesta BC-08, Cquartz finest and Gyeon from reading these and other treads. If CQF or Gyeon will last longer maybe that's where I should be headed. Honestly, BC-08 is marketed by Modesta as an inferior product so they don't cut into their other products that are 2 or 3 times more expensive per application. Hence my original question.

I'm also troubled a bit by the whole "science" around these coatings. Description after description talks about the coating binding to the paint but detailers are putting the same stuff over the plastic wraps. What am I missing? It binds to paint and plastic? Shampoo and conditioner in one? Hey, I'm just a guy trying to avoid waxing every three or four months or letting the paint and wheels deteriorate. And maybe keeping a paint corrected finish without going OC.

I also have this discussion going on a dedicated thread in the detailing section as well "Modesta BC-08:..." so I'm not quite sure what to do. I'll post this replay on the other one and hope the discussion consolidates in one place...
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      09-28-2017, 03:49 PM   #298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DetailersDomain View Post
BC08 is an entry level product from Modesta it's a good one, which shop are you going to?
You will know when you will need to recoat in 2-3 years the product will eventually wear out. You probably will need to correct the paint to get it ready for a recoat we have done this process in the past and it's common and standard procedure. Most reputable shops will be able to handle it.
Is it possible to re-coat before this happens? So, do a pre-emptive top layer of the ceramic coating and avoid the loss of protection? Or is that not recommended because the ceramic coating won't bond well with a worn layer of the same ceramic coating?

Thanks
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      09-29-2017, 07:36 AM   #299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lax01 View Post
Is it possible to re-coat before this happens? So, do a pre-emptive top layer of the ceramic coating and avoid the loss of protection? Or is that not recommended because the ceramic coating won't bond well with a worn layer of the same ceramic coating?

Thanks
Yes, you would still need to polish the initial coating, because by itself, the top (New) layer would not adhere as it should to the old coating.

Bruce
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      09-29-2017, 12:54 PM   #300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce_SC View Post
Yes, you would still need to polish the initial coating, because by itself, the top (New) layer would not adhere as it should to the old coating.

Bruce
Got it, I figured as much - thanks!
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      10-02-2017, 04:11 PM   #301
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Follow up to the above questions I probably should have asked this prior to application but I recently applied GTechniq Crystal Serum Light this coating weekend. I am currently wondering if I applied it correctly and whether I coated the entire car.

First I started by cleaning, polishing and prepping the paint with PanelWipe...so I believe I started with a good, clean, corrected surface.

From there, I started applying the CSL to portions of the hood. I did this in 6 segments which was easy (apply and swipe off) but I was worried that I would apply one section of the hood, move to another and be (potentially) removing some of the coating when I went to remove the excess. On other parts of the car, I sometimes felt it was easier to work on an area larger than 2x2. It seemed like the coating was going onto the paint and I could see the coating was being transferred to the paint - any issues with this? Also, my questions (and this can apply to all ceramic coating) are:
  1. Is it okay to do a slight overlap (especially since its so hard to tell exactly where you coated previously) during application?
  2. When moving from section to section (on a panel) and panel to panel, you have to remove the residue from sections where you've already applied - is it possible to completely remove the slightly cured sections? How could you tell if you were doing this?
  3. How much wiping is enough to remove the residue? I went over it a couple of times and tried not to apply a lot of pressure -- I guess I'm just worried that I removed most of the coating (or should I not worry about that?).
  4. How can I test to ensure I got complete coverage? Just if the water beads on all sections of the paint? I don't know have a way to inspect paint thickness.
  5. What's a good way to clean the pad that was used for the coating? Or is this throw away at this point? I had it in a bucket of water with soap but it still smells strongly of the coating.

Thanks for any help!
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      10-03-2017, 08:04 AM   #302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lax01 View Post
Follow up to the above questions I probably should have asked this prior to application but I recently applied GTechniq Crystal Serum Light this coating weekend. I am currently wondering if I applied it correctly and whether I coated the entire car.

First I started by cleaning, polishing and prepping the paint with PanelWipe...so I believe I started with a good, clean, corrected surface.

From there, I started applying the CSL to portions of the hood. I did this in 6 segments which was easy (apply and swipe off) but I was worried that I would apply one section of the hood, move to another and be (potentially) removing some of the coating when I went to remove the excess. On other parts of the car, I sometimes felt it was easier to work on an area larger than 2x2. It seemed like the coating was going onto the paint and I could see the coating was being transferred to the paint - any issues with this? Also, my questions (and this can apply to all ceramic coating) are:
  1. Is it okay to do a slight overlap (especially since its so hard to tell exactly where you coated previously) during application?

    I think the instructions recommend this and it is okay.
  2. When moving from section to section (on a panel) and panel to panel, you have to remove the residue from sections where you've already applied - is it possible to completely remove the slightly cured sections? How could you tell if you were doing this?

    No, unless you are using excessive force or have a MF towel that has some type of panel wipe or a strong APC. The coating starts to bond once applied.
  3. How much wiping is enough to remove the residue? I went over it a couple of times and tried not to apply a lot of pressure -- I guess I'm just worried that I removed most of the coating (or should I not worry about that?).

    You should be able to see where you wiped on the coating and also where you removed it.

  4. How can I test to ensure I got complete coverage? Just if the water beads on all sections of the paint? I don't know have a way to inspect paint thickness.

    That is about the only way, because this stuff does leave behind a tracer hue (now thats an idea) you can only make sure that you are diligent in your application.
  5. What's a good way to clean the pad that was used for the coating? Or is this throw away at this point? I had it in a bucket of water with soap but it still smells strongly of the coating.

    Throw it away. I wouldnt use it again for anything.

Thanks for any help!

Hope the above explanations help.

Bruce
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      10-03-2017, 02:28 PM   #303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce_SC View Post
Hope the above explanations help.

Bruce
Thanks for the info!

My MF was definitely clean and I swapped them half-way for removal of the residual (they were actually brand new too).

Quote:
You should be able to see where you wiped on the coating and also where you removed it.
Even on a white car? It was pretty hard to tell where the coating was applied...I could see the coating as it was applied (since it looked sort of wet) but once I wiped the residue off, it was almost invisible (which I guess is ultimately the point).

So I checked the paint last night and I did see beading, so I know some of the coating remained on the paint - you can see that here: https://imgur.com/a/x6w3I



Thanks again for the help!
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      10-04-2017, 07:49 AM   #304
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Coatinh

Quote:
Originally Posted by lax01 View Post
Thanks for the info!

My MF was definitely clean and I swapped them half-way for removal of the residual (they were actually brand new too).



Even on a white car? It was pretty hard to tell where the coating was applied...I could see the coating as it was applied (since it looked sort of wet) but once I wiped the residue off, it was almost invisible (which I guess is ultimately the point).

So I checked the paint last night and I did see beading, so I know some of the coating remained on the paint - you can see that here: https://imgur.com/a/x6w3I



Thanks again for the help!

Great, looks like it worked out.

Bruce
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      10-08-2017, 07:52 AM   #305
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I want to put on a ceramic coating nano glass technology for the wheels.
What are the better products for wheels, as I find the stock wheel with the stock brake pads cause a lot of brake dust.

And any recommendations in this regards
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      10-09-2017, 08:00 AM   #306
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Modesta BC-06

Quote:
Originally Posted by iQuiet View Post
I want to put on a ceramic coating nano glass technology for the wheels.
What are the better products for wheels, as I find the stock wheel with the stock brake pads cause a lot of brake dust.

And any recommendations in this regards
Check out:

Melbourne Detailing Centre
6/177 Salmon Street
Port Melbourne, 3207
Victoria
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