[dcgolfdr]

didn’t reuse the funky gasket in the stock DP, didn’t freak out over torque specs and you know what, no leaks and it works perfect. Lighten up guys it’s exhaust, it will be fine.

[BMWPWR18]

Originally Posted by dcgolfdr

didn’t reuse the funky gasket in the stock DP, didn’t freak out over torque specs and you know what, no leaks and it works perfect. Lighten up guys it’s exhaust, it will be fine.

Same

[Nezil]

Neither did I the first time, and I didn't have any problems either. I'm not sure I'd replace the down pipe to exhaust clamp if I did it again either, even if it does have a crush section; I'm just not sure that it's necessary to get a seal. It probably helps, but getting a seal is easy without it as well.

I was asked for all the torque settings, so that's why I posted them; not because I thought they were all critical.

IMHO, the critical torque setting is the one for the stiffening plate, particularly as they're torque to yield. You could probably get away with these just being "nice and tight" but they're actually part of the front suspension, and I'd rather not mess with that, but to each his own.

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by dcgolfdr

didn’t reuse the funky gasket in the stock DP, didn’t freak out over torque specs and you know what, no leaks and it works perfect. Lighten up guys it’s exhaust, it will be fine.

So you used no gasket and it didn't leak?

[Nezil]

I know you're not specifically asking me, but I'll answer anyway.

The first time I fitted my down pipe, I reused both the V Clamps. The lower, down pipe to exhaust clamp has a crush section in it the effectively conforms to the shape of the down pipe outlet flange.

When I reused the lower clamp, I didn't have the crush section at all, because it was stuck on the stock down pipe. It sealed fine.

This time I used a new clamp and it conformed the new crush section to my new down pipe. In theory it probably seals better, but in practice, the crush section wasn't essential to get a good seal.

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by Nezil

I know you're not specifically asking me, but I'll answer anyway.

The first time I fitted my down pipe, I reused both the V Clamps. The lower, down pipe to exhaust clamp has a crush section in it the effectively conforms to the shape of the down pipe outlet flange.

When I reused the lower clamp, I didn't have the crush section at all, because it was stuck on the stock down pipe. It sealed fine.

This time I used a new clamp and it conformed the new crush section to my new down pipe. In theory it probably seals better, but in practice, the crush section wasn't essential to get a good seal.

Thanks.

So the lower clamp has a seal built into it? I ask because I'll be changing mine out soon and want to have everything necessary when I do it. I'm definitely replacing the shield bolts.

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by cecaa850

Thanks.

So the lower clamp has a seal built into it? I ask because I'll be changing mine out soon and want to have everything necessary when I do it. I'm definitely replacing the shield bolts.

Yes, correct, it has a seal, which I think is probably unnecessary.

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by Nezil

Yes, correct, it has a seal, which I think is probably unnecessary.

Thank you.

I found the bolts for a little over 4 dollars a pop. That's cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned. I never have liked to reuse torque to yield bolts.

[KevM2]

Originally Posted by Nezil

Neither did I the first time, and I didn't have any problems either. I'm not sure I'd replace the down pipe to exhaust clamp if I did it again either, even if it does have a crush section; I'm just not sure that it's necessary to get a seal. It probably helps, but getting a seal is easy without it as well.

I was asked for all the torque settings, so that's why I posted them; not because I thought they were all critical.

IMHO, the critical torque setting is the one for the stiffening plate, particularly as they're torque to yield. You could probably get away with these just being "nice and tight" but they're actually part of the front suspension, and I'd rather not mess with that, but to each his own.

Wow I did not know those bolts holding the plate actually play a role in the suspension! For sure I will torque those . Thanks for all the info

[KevM2]

Originally Posted by Nezil

Yes, correct, it has a seal, which I think is probably unnecessary.

Just thought of another question. I'm planning on jacking up the car and placing it on jack stands so passenger side is up. Do you think it would be okay to remove the stiffening bolts and placing them back with that sort of geometry of the car? Just wondering if the car should be on a lift instead so the front suspension doesn't have an uneven load if those bolts are part of the suspension.

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by KevM2

Just thought of another question. I'm planning on jacking up the car and placing it on jack stands so passenger side is up. Do you think it would be okay to remove the stiffening bolts and placing them back with that sort of geometry of the car? Just wondering if the car should be on a lift instead so the front suspension doesn't have an uneven load if those bolts are part of the suspension.

That's a good question. If go with Jack stands on the front two Jack points.

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by Nezil

That's a good question. If go with Jack stands on the front two Jack points.

And how exactly do you do that? If you use your floor jack on the jack points, there's no where to put the stands. I was playing with mine this weekend and cut a bunch of 2x10's up into 10x12 inch pads. I would jack each side and stack them under the tires. By going side to side I could stack them 8 high which put each wheel 12" off the ground. There will be plenty of room like that to swap cats once they come in. Park brake was on and rear wheels were chocked.

[Drop the hammer]

Don’t go that high with the blocking the wheels. I had the best height at an 8 inch block under wheels and jack and lower car onto them. If you go higher than 8 inches then you’ll have to reach higher up to the top clamp, I prefer to be lying flat and be able to reach it. Otherwise you have to do a partial crunch/sit up to reach it and it’s harder to do. Probably will depend on your belly size and length if arms though.

[Drop the hammer]

Just blocked the fronts up using the jack points.

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by Drop the hammer

Don’t go that high with the blocking the wheels. I had the best height at an 8 inch block under wheels and jack and lower car onto them. If you go higher than 8 inches then you’ll have to reach higher up to the top clamp, I prefer to be lying flat and be able to reach it. Otherwise you have to do a partial crunch/sit up to reach it and it’s harder to do. Probably will depend on your belly size and length if arms though.

Great info, thanks.

[Nezil]

There is a central Jack point in the middle of the stiffening plate that you can reach from the front of the car. My jack, although low profile, isn't low enough to get under the front of the bumper, so I put a couple of pieces of wood under one wheel first just to give me an extra half inch to get the jack under.

Once you can jack from the central point it's easy to put two jack stands under the sides at the same time. The car stays remarkably balanced when jacked in the center point, though I guess it should.

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by Nezil

There is a central Jack point in the middle of the stiffening plate that you can reach from the front of the car. My jack, although low profile, isn't low enough to get under the front of the bumper, so I put a couple of pieces of wood under one wheel first just to give me an extra half inch to get the jack under.

Once you can jack from the central point it's easy to put two jack stands under the sides at the same time. The car stays remarkably balanced when jacked in the center point, though I guess it should.

I saw that. That's the round area in the center of the plate? I didn't realize you could jack there. I have a low rise floor jack that would probably work.

[425M2]

I bought a pair of of the HD rhino ramps from autozone, work well with jack stands added in for extra safety.

[KevM2]

Originally Posted by cecaa850

And how exactly do you do that? If you use your floor jack on the jack points, there's no where to put the stands. I was playing with mine this weekend and cut a bunch of 2x10's up into 10x12 inch pads. I would jack each side and stack them under the tires. By going side to side I could stack them 8 high which put each wheel 12" off the ground. There will be plenty of room like that to swap cats once they come in. Park brake was on and rear wheels were chocked.

I do that by jacking the rear as high as possible, the front will go up and the I place the jack stand in the front and lower the car onto it and repeat it on the other side

[Who?]

Sorry for asking so many (silly) questions, first time doing a downpipe

Did you guys use antiseizes and threadlockers? Going through the akra manual, they state it in the symbols, but doesnt seem to be used in the guide itself

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by Who?

Sorry for asking so many (silly) questions, first time doing a downpipe

Did you guys use antiseizes and threadlockers? Going through the akra manual, they state it in the symbols, but doesnt seem to be used in the guide itself

I used copper grease on the threads of the O2 sensors, but it didn't help at all, so I wouldn't bother.

I had to switch back to the stock down pipe temporarily, and then back to the Fabspeed, in all three times I had to remove the O2 sensors, the lower one was seized in place.

I ended up using a Map gas plumbers torch to heat the threads of the O2 sensor and then un-did it while it was still hot. Using this approach, they un-did pretty easily.

[cecaa850]

Update on the bolts. I ordered 8 bolts today for a delivered price of $29.15. That's about $3.64 a bolt. I found them on E-Bay and they are OEM bolts. Ebay has a sale today for 15% off if you enter "PRIMOSALE" when you check out. For that price I feel it's silly not to replace them.