[///M TOWN]

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My TurboSmart DV's wiring loom (covered with heavy electrical shrink wrap) is lightly touching the upper water hose coming from the water pump

Anybody else have theirs touching?

Thanks for the input

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

My TurboSmart DV's wiring loom (covered with heavy electrical shrink wrap) is lightly touching the upper water hose coming from the water pump

Anybody else have theirs touching?

Thanks for the input

Interesting, it is contacting right at the end of the metal coupler coming out of the turbo smart valve. This means that the wires inside of the loom has very little slack (vs if it were contacting in the middle of a long wire which would not be pressed up against anything allowing it to be more flexible - think a phone charger if you flex it next to the plug it is very rigid vs the middle of the cable) before it is forced to bend against the hose and the metal coupler, which is not ideal if there is alot of movement or pressure.

However the bend radius is not extremely tight (it is bent but not too too badly), and since the water pump and turbo will move in unison as it is attached to the block, I suspect there will be very little movement induced flex on the wires. Well it also depends on how much the engine rocks to the passenger side under WOT or high output scenarios because the hoses will not really want to move and thus flex and will thus be pushed upwards and to the driver side as it bulges, so it might contact the wires. But since it is touching the hose right before it connects to the water pump this means the hose will be as stiff as possible in terms of its connection to the pump and thus flex in the direction of the pump movement as the engine rocks and it will likely not bulge towards the wires. So for the most part I would imagine the only stress it will see is from the hoses itself flexing as water pressure increases as the pump spools up, and from the vibrations of the hose and the wires contact.


So overall I don't suspect there to be too much of an issue, but obviously it isn't ideal having the wires touch in this particular area as there isn't much slack in the already bent wire which is pushed up against the metal coupler meaning there is little movement for the wire to bend and flex leaving it more susceptible to damage. But I think you will be ok.

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by F87source

Interesting, it is contacting right at the end of the metal coupler coming out of the turbo smart valve. This means that the wires inside of the loom has very little slack (vs if it were contacting in the middle of a long wire which would not be pressed up against anything allowing it to be more flexible - think a phone charger if you flex it next to the plug it is very rigid vs the middle of the cable) before it is forced to bend against the hose and the metal coupler, which is not ideal if there is alot of movement or pressure.

However the bend radius is not extremely tight (it is bent but not too too badly), and since the water pump and turbo will move in unison as it is attached to the block, I suspect there will be very little movement induced flex on the wires. Well it also depends on how much the engine rocks to the passenger side under WOT or high output scenarios because the hoses will not really want to move and thus flex and will thus be pushed upwards and to the driver side as it bulges, so it might contact the wires. But since it is touching the hose right before it connects to the water pump this means the hose will be as stiff as possible in terms of its connection to the pump and thus flex in the direction of the pump movement as the engine rocks and it will likely not bulge towards the wires. So for the most part I would imagine the only stress it will see is from the hoses itself flexing as water pressure increases as the pump spools up, and from the vibrations of the hose and the wires contact.


So overall I don't suspect there to be too much of an issue, but obviously it isn't ideal having the wires touch in this particular area as there isn't much slack in the already bent wire which is pushed up against the metal coupler meaning there is little movement for the wire to bend and flex leaving it more susceptible to damage. But I think you will be ok.

I was considering loosing all three bolts and seeing if I can shift the DV up slightly

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

I was considering loosing all three bolts and seeing if I can shift the DV up slightly

Yeah that might work, but I don't know how much wiggle room there is on the bolt holes.

[///M TOWN]

TurboSmart DV Install went poorly car runs roughly after it warms up

I noticed that the Fitment was much looser than factory

Very sloppy as if it's not completely centered it might not be operational or effective in the way it's intended to be

I also have a feeling I have the wrong diverter valve for my car

I will be reaching out to X-PH to see what their thoughts are and potentially have the correct unit sent to if I do happen to have the wrong model currently

I'm not really sure at this point

Any ideas are certainly appreciated

This is definitely not what I was expecting

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

TurboSmart DV Install went poorly car runs roughly after it warms up

I noticed that the Fitment was much looser than factory

Very sloppy as if it's not completely centered it might not be operational or effective in the way it's intended to be

I also have a feeling I have the wrong diverter valve for my car

I will be reaching out to X-PH to see what their thoughts are and potentially have the correct unit sent to if I do happen to have the wrong model currently

I'm not really sure at this point

Any ideas are certainly appreciated

This is definitely not what I was expecting

I replied to your pm.

But I don't think it's possible to get the wrong valve. The m2 has a much different diverter valve harness than the F series n55, so if you got the wrong one it simply wouldn't connect.

[F87source]

F series n55 turbo smart valve connector, it's a square pinch style connector similar to the oil temp sensor connector that has to be removed to do the coolant flange.




M2 turbo smart connector, it's a long narrow press tab connector like the mad sensor.

[///M TOWN]

I got a bunch of codes finally from the ECU


Motor electronics
108001
Intake air temperature sensor, electrical:
short circuit to positive
160504
Crankcase ventilation heating, control:
line break
118001
Mixture control: Mixture too lean
118401
Mixture control: Mixture too lean,
large deviation

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by F87source

I replied to your pm.

But I don't think it's possible to get the wrong valve. The m2 has a much different diverter valve harness than the F series n55, so if you got the wrong one it simply wouldn't connect.

Posted recorded codes above

Not fun but I am going to figure this all out

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

I got a bunch of codes finally from the ECU


Motor electronics
108001
Intake air temperature sensor, electrical:
short circuit to positive
160504
Crankcase ventilation heating, control:
line break
118001
Mixture control: Mixture too lean
118401
Mixture control: Mixture too lean,
large deviation

Interesting why are you still getting temp sensor issues. What did you remove to install the dv? Check your tmap and mad sensor harnesses.


You should also check your pcv heater connector to ensure its plugged all the way in.


Then check all pipe connections to ensure its pushed all the way down and c-clips are in. Make sure the o-rings are installed in the correct orientation.

Also check your pcv hose and their connections, make sure its pushed all the way into the inlet and the connector is tight to the valve cover. Also check for cracks on the pcv hose, leaks there can cause issues.


After this is done reset all codes and reset adaptations, and restart and see if the issues persist.


Other than that I'm not sure what else could be causing it, and it's likely to be your diverter valve.

[///M TOWN]

Bad hose clamp - Went in the trash

Inlet had literally slipped off the turbo

Got a two dollar hose clamp pulled everything off cleaned everything up put it back together

Runs like a champ - No engine codes

Now to take her for a drive

[Sundinisagod]

^ Good to hear! Thanks for reporting back your experience. Almost had me convinced not to do this mod...

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by Sundinisagod

^ Good to hear! Thanks for reporting back your experience. Almost had me convinced not to do this mod...

I'd be glad to give you some tips

You'll need a 3/8 long 5 mm ball socket

That's for the top bolt of the diverter valve

The other two I was able to get out with the combination of extensions and a 5 mm hex key

[Sundinisagod]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

I'd be glad to give you some tips

You'll need a 3/8 long 5 mm ball socket

That's for the top bolt of the diverter valve

The other two I was able to get out with the combination of extensions and a 5 mm hex key

Appreciate that but I’ve decided to save this job for my mechanic.

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by Sundinisagod

Appreciate that but I've decided to save this job for my mechanic.

Smart considering if you don't have the right tools you're completely screwed

[AmuroRay]

Logs? Driving impressions?

I did my DV and inlet at the same time (mechanic) noticeable increase in throttle response and power, at the top end.

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

Logs? Driving impressions?

I did my DV and inlet at the same time (mechanic) noticeable increase in throttle response and power, at the top end.

It's raining and the roads are wet

Still need to bolt the belly pan on tonight and hopefully I can drive it tomorrow

I am glad I did this in steps to feel the difference now that I have had my inlet on since September of last year this should be interesting to drive with the DV added to the mix

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

It's raining and the roads are wet

Still need to bolt the belly pan on tonight and hopefully I can drive it tomorrow

I am glad I did this in steps to feel the difference now that I have had my inlet on since September of last year this should be interesting to drive with the DV added to the mix

Awesome man, I used to love doing my mods in steps. When I was building my M52tuB25 many moons ago, I did step by step mods and dyno graphs. It was a fun journey and you could really separate the good from the bad.

I think I quoted another user who found consistent measurable gains with the inlet over the stock one, and the effectiveness of all intakes get better with an inlet.

Since I did my both the DV and inlet at the same time. my logs showed a reduction in WGDC and more top end power. There was also a really nice increase in throttle response which was one of my favorite parts (I haven’t real logged since my intake, and I’m waiting for my tuner to send over a tune for my MILVS….) but always excited to hear other people’s impressions on mods

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

Awesome man, I used to love doing my mods in steps. When I was building my M52tuB25 many moons ago, I did step by step mods and dyno graphs. It was a fun journey and you could really separate the good from the bad.

I think I quoted another user who found consistent measurable gains with the inlet over the stock one, and the effectiveness of all intakes get better with an inlet.

Since I did my both the DV and inlet at the same time. my logs showed a reduction in WGDC and more top end power. There was also a really nice increase in throttle response which was one of my favorite parts (I haven't real logged since my intake, and I'm waiting for my tuner to send over a tune for my MILVS….) but always excited to hear other people's impressions on mods

I'm extremely happy with the way the car runs right now and I haven't even driven it with the diverter valve in place

I run a stock exhaust
AFE drop in dry filter
MST v2 turbo inlet
BMS Intercooler
BMS C-Pipe

And now the TurboSmart DV

[Sundinisagod]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

I'm extremely happy with the way the car runs right now and I haven't even driven it with the diverter valve in place

I run a stock exhaust
AFE drop in dry filter
MST v2 turbo inlet
BMS Intercooler
BMS C-Pipe

And now the TurboSmart DV

Sport cat next ??

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by Sundinisagod

Sport cat next ??

Yessir ‼️

[neonbrown]

Definitely let us know your thoughts on the different steps you've taken (inlet then DV)

I also did both at the same time.