[pissclams]

Originally Posted by pruettfan

Congrats on the M2, you will feel plenty of power and hear your fair share of sounds within the restrictions of the break in period. Personally I would ignore the advice of the various strangers here on the internet as to how to break in your car and go with the factory recommendation. Unless one of those guys are offering a warranty with their unsolicited advice.

Um, he solicited the advice by starting this thread asking for advice.

[///M4ster Yoda]

What's this break in you guys speak of?? Is that code for Grandpa driving

Always the same debate whether it's the M3/4 or M2 forum. Wife and I max out our cars straight out of the Welt on the Autobahn.

ZERO issues.

I thought the grandpas would be on the 7er forum :

[ZPrime]

I think it's more a case of paranoia... M2 seems to be attracting a lot of "first time M" people to it, plus never-owned-BMW-before owners.

I've always thought that break-in was kind of BS, since AFAIK the motors are all run-in at the factory anyway, or at least they are run and driven around a bit before they're ever in the hands of the final consumer. I thought that the majority of ring seating happens in the first 5-10 minutes of engine life and anything beyond that isn't doing much... but if it didn't matter, then why do they put a break-in procedure in the manual?

I plan on keeping this car a while so I will probably follow the break-in.

My last "bought-from-new" car was a VW R32, which I had at an autocross with like 300 miles on it IIRC... but that's also a N/A motor, no turbo. It went to ~85k before I traded it and AFAIK the second owner still has had no problems with it (I left a note in the manual so the next buyer could get in touch with me).

[pruettfan]

Originally Posted by pissclams

Um, he solicited the advice by starting this thread asking for advice.

Um Perhaps you should re-read his question, he asked if he will feel the power of the car during break-in, he didn't ask how he should break the car in.

[jaflak]

Thanks guys! I know lots of you are telling me to disregard the break-in, however i will go with what ever BMW recommends Thanks for the feedback! Can't wait to receive it. About a week or so hopefully!

[doug_999]

Originally Posted by pruettfan

Um Perhaps you should re-read his question, he asked if he will feel the power of the car during break-in, he didn't ask how he should break the car in.

Perhaps you should read the whole thread.

[pruettfan]

Originally Posted by doug_999

Perhaps you should read the whole thread.

The OP never asks for input on how to break-in the car, I can read just fine. Folks like you chime in and give your unsolicited advice which was the point of my post. I suppose since he didn't ask about how to break-in his car I gave unsolicited advice by telling him to ignore the advice from those who can't resist to tell him what to do. No reason for any of us to argue here, we should all do what we think is best, life is too short to argue about how a stranger should drive their car.

[M3 Adjuster]

Everything in moderation... including moderation

[AndyinHou]

Congrats on the new car!

Coming from a 235, I could definitely tell there's a difference in power, even (mostly) staying within break in protocols. And the sound is divine!

[Tag]

The break-in period is also for the drivetrain. So if you really DGAF then by all means disregard. I mean why would anyone listen to those stupid engineers that built the damn car?

[doug_999]

Originally Posted by pruettfan

The OP never asks for input on how to break-in the car, I can read just fine. Folks like you chime in and give your unsolicited advice which was the point of my post. I suppose since he didn't ask about how to break-in his car I gave unsolicited advice by telling him to ignore the advice from those who can't resist to tell him what to do. No reason for any of us to argue here, we should all do what we think is best, life is too short to argue about how a stranger should drive their car.

My response and addition was a comment on top of another response. Sometimes each and every response in a thread is not specifically a response to the OP, but a clarification/comment/etc on someone else's comment. Just like yours

[akkando]

Originally Posted by Tag

The break-in period is also for the drivetrain. So if you really DGAF then by all means disregard. I mean why would anyone listen to those stupid engineers that built the damn car?

I guess the argument would be which part was written by engineers and which part by the lawyers?

[///M4ster Yoda]

Originally Posted by akkando

I guess the argument would be which part was written by engineers and which part by the lawyers?

Exactly

[Aloha Joe]

Originally Posted by jaflak

The question that i have today - what's the overall driving experience like during the break-in? Will i still feel a fair bit of power? Looking for your experiences and answers, without the obvious "It'll still be much quicker than the i30" I do drive my brother's Audi SQ5 a fair bit, however i know that this is quicker by about 1 second (which is heaps in car language)

On another note - video's do no justice for volume. Is it really loud? And will i hear much of it during the break-in?

Incase you're interested - Long Beach Blue, Sun-Roof, Heated Seats (no longer standard with the LCI)

Thanks guys!

Originally Posted by jaflak

Thanks guys! I know lots of you are telling me to disregard the break-in, however i will go with what ever BMW recommends Thanks for the feedback! Can't wait to receive it. About a week or so hopefully!

jaflak, First of all, congrats on the car I'll try to answer your question the best I can, and let the others argue about proper break in or drive it like you stole it.

I did Euro Delivery and did my best to follow BMW break in rules as well. The answer to your first question is, it is definitely a fun driving experience during break in! While you won't be redlining it, you'll enjoy how it feels and handles the curves of the road. Really what the M2 was designed for anyway as opposed to quarter mile killer.

2nd question, you will also feel quite a bit of power as you'll notice good torque from about 2k rpms and not stopping till the 5.5k rpm recommendation. Shifting at the 5.5k mark, still keeps the turbos spooling, pretty much in the sweet zone, so you'll still experience acceleration immediately, in the next gear up.

Regarding exhaust volume (totally subjective of course to everyone). Cold start up is loud for a stock exhaust, but not excessive as some aftermarket exhausts are. After it's warmed up, I think it's just right. Volume wise, not tone wise, it's about the same as the stock 03-08 Infiniti G35's, if you ever heard those. I did test drive a M2 with the MPE, but that was a little too much for my taste, YMMV of course. Once again, Congrats on the car

[Spa2k]

Originally Posted by akkando

I guess the argument would be which part was written by engineers and which part by the lawyers?

Having been around the auto industry a long time, I'd say it was written by the engineers, put in simple terms by the writers and approved by the lawyers without modification. The lawyers don't understand or care about the mechanical stuff; they're too busy writing disclaimers about air bags, electronic nannies and other things that can get a company sued for big dough by owners who don't understand them and didn't bother to read the manual.

[devo]

those offering opinions to this topic rather than facts are fxxxxxx

oh wait, Im wanted to edit so i can add:

[doug_999]

Originally Posted by Spa2k

Having been around the auto industry a long time, I'd say it was written by the engineers, put in simple terms by the writers and approved by the lawyers without modification. The lawyers don't understand or care about the mechanical stuff; they're too busy writing disclaimers about air bags, electronic nannies and other things that can get a company sued for big dough by owners who don't understand them and didn't bother to read the manual.

You wrote "approved by lawyers without modification"

Now THAT is the funniest thing I have ever heard.

Seriously, have you ever worked with an attorney? Because they NEVER approve something without modification. They would explode, I'm positive.

[Spa2k]

I see it all the time. People (even lawyers) don't read the technical stuff because it makes their brains hurt. Instead, they focus on the easy stuff.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by doug_999

You wrote "approved by lawyers without modification"

Now THAT is the funniest thing I have ever heard.

Seriously, have you ever worked with an attorney? Because they NEVER approve something without modification. They would explode, I'm positive.

At my company it doesn't seem like they approve anything.... Wish I could get paid bank just to say no.

[Lieutenant Biscuits]

Originally Posted by M2LA

Youtube Vid

The quote below was taken from the youtube comments on the video posted by M2LA. I guess people should do whatever they think is the right thing to do, as there are conflicting opinions on here and on tinternet.

I am an engineer with one of largest manufacturers of engines in the world, a company that sells billions of dollars of them every year. Items #1 and #2 are terribly incorrect.

EVERY engine that we manufacture goes from assembly into a test cell where it is started, warmed up, and sent immediately to 100% full load. Yes, it is "floored."

When we do engine testing, even prototype engines are assembled (mostly with Lubriplate 105), warmed up with standard petroleum oil, and immediately go to full rated horsepower while the dyno pulls them down from rated HP to the lowest RPM of torque peak.

Almost every automotive manufacturer follows this practice as well. So do motorcycle manufacturers. I personally saw new Ducatis going off the line in Bologna into a chassis dyno where they were started, briefly warmed, and then immediate run up AT FULL LOAD all the way to redline.

Why do they do this?

1) The freshly honed/machined surfaces can only do an ideal break-in when they are, in fact, fresh. Once the asperities and surfaces begin to smooth, they lose the ability to mate to each other properly.

2) It prevents customer complaints of high oil consumption and poor MPG because customers tend to follow outdated, bad advice like babying a new engine.


Back when machining and honing technology was far less advanced, and tolerances could not be held as well, there was perhaps some validity to babying a new engine. But this advice is woefully out of date.

Instead, the best thing you can for a new engine is:
1) Warm it up to full operating temperature
2) Do several full throttle runs that stop well short of redline
3) Idle the engine to let it cool a bit
4) Repeat steps 2&3 several times
5) Change the oil and filter.

Done.

By and large, new engines require almost no break in at all because of the "abuse" they suffer at the factory. That's why they can ship new cars like Corvettes with Mobil 1 from the factory. No need to worry about the syntehtic preventing break-in when the engine is already broken in before installed in the car.

[devo]

Originally Posted by Lieutenant Biscuits

The quote below was taken from the youtube comments on the video posted by M2LA. I guess people should do whatever they think is the right thing to do, as there are conflicting opinions on here and on tinternet.

Porsche's Andreas Preuninger has an opinion:

"people driving their GT4 or GT3 straight from the dealership to the track are hurting their cars": admitting 2000 as indicated in the manual was a bit too much.
- For the first 500 km (300 mi), never go over 5,000 rpm (keep in mind the gt3 has a 9k redline)
- Then increase the max rpm by 500 increments every 200 miles, about 1,300 miles."

Iircc, engine dyno runs at the factory do not serve the same as chassis mounted real driving break in.

[Lieutenant Biscuits]

Originally Posted by devo

Porsche's Andreas Preuninger has an opinion:

"people driving their GT4 or GT3 straight from the dealership to the track are hurting their cars": admitting 2000 as indicated in the manual was a bit too much.
- For the first 500 km (300 mi), never go over 5,000 rpm (keep in mind the gt3 has a 9k redline)
- Then increase the max rpm by 500 increments every 200 miles, about 1,300 miles.

engine dyno runs at the factory do not serve the same as chassis mounted real driving break in.

Personally I would be taking Andreas' advice. If someone is telling me it doesn't matter how you drive it and someone else is telling me to take it easy for the first 1000 miles, then it seems a no brainer to take to take the latter advice. Why take the risk?