[Got f1?]

Originally Posted by M2 GT

I ran the original springs (90/190) for over a year and felt it was perfect for the street... not exactly compliant but never felt unsettled either. I upgraded to a stiffer setup and it feels perfect on the track, and still drivable on the street but quite a bit firmer than before. All subjective and everyone has different tolerance levels.

I suspect 190 rear springs would have been better. But man! 230NM/mm at speed over some bumps and it took a LOT of concentration and steering correction.

[M-Pilot]

What kind of tolerance level am I supposed to have to tolerate being literally launched out of my seat as a 200lbs person on the highway or backroad bumps? I put aftermarket springs on my M4 Comp and they didn't work well at all with the adaptive suspension. I thought the ride quality was pretty bad and crashy but was never this extreme. Even that experience was acceptable for me and I lived with it 2+ years without any issues. Ohlins on my M2C was not crashy at all despite the high spring rates but it sucked at handling the bumps/dips on public roads. I still think R/T is great for track duty and it let me set personal bests at Laguna (consistently ran 1:40-1:41 and even dipped into high 1:30s). It just doesn't do well at all on the street in my opinion.

[Got f1?]

Originally Posted by M-Pilot

What kind of tolerance level am I supposed to have to tolerate being literally launched out of my seat as a 200lbs person on the highway or backroad bumps? I put aftermarket springs on my M4 Comp and they didn't work well at all with the adaptive suspension. I thought the ride quality was pretty bad and crashy but was never this extreme. Even that experience was acceptable for me and I lived with it 2+ years without any issues. Ohlins on my M2C was not crashy at all despite the high spring rates but it sucked at handling the bumps/dips on public roads. I still think R/T is great for track duty and it let me set personal bests at Laguna (consistently ran 1:40-1:41 and even dipped into high 1:30s). It just doesn't do well at all on the street in my opinion.

I know it has been said plenty, but it is preference. Most people seem to land with firmer springs, but I have to say softer is good *so far*. Mid Ohio next month will tell more, but on the street, it is very easy and reasonable to drive.

[M2 GT]

That is true, the 190N/mm spring was definitely more compliant compared to the 220N/mm spring I have now.

Originally Posted by Got f1?

I suspect 190 rear springs would have been better. But man! 230NM/mm at speed over some bumps and it took a LOT of concentration and steering correction.

[Saanen]

I am running 80Fr 160Rr N/mm which at 20 clicks is a little bit stiffer than stock, but close...even closer now that I installed the aluminum carbon fiber strut tower bracing. Going too far in either direction (ie more than 25% stiffer or softer) would likely be out of range for the valving of these Ohlins, at least that is what Jake (the Ohlins tech rep) said when I reached out to them prior to selecting my spring rates.

[moveswiftly]

As an update i spent some time this weekend diagnosing what was causing my suspension issues. For reference, I am running 80F / 160R springs.

Issue 1: front preload wasn't set. I measured the top and bottom of the spring and it was about 200mm. Per Ohlins 5mm of preload should be set with the spring measuring 195mm once slightly compressed.

Issue 2: rear ride height too low. Per Ohlins the rear pre load should be 40mm. On measuring my car it was close to 20mm.

After adjusting the car rides super smooth at 16 clicks all around. Surprised my installers didn't set this correctly from the get-go but I'm very pleased with the results.

[MR RIZK]

Originally Posted by moveswiftly

Surprised my installers didn't set this correctly from the get-go but I'm very pleased with the results.

I assume close enough is good enough

[moveswiftly]

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

I assume close enough is good enough

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

I assume close enough is good enough

Ha... with a spring length of 200mm, the 5mm of preload is minor but makes a difference.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by chris719

Do you know if M Perf coilovers are softer than R&T? Is there another kit that is?

M Performance is for sure. Spring rates are lower.

[Mikli]

Anyone got some photos of how low their M2C sit with Ohlins?

[Got f1?]

Originally Posted by Mikli

Anyone got some photos of how low their M2C sit with Ohlins?

Here's a few. Keep in mind ride height is adjustable and wheels in the pics are 19" front and 20" rear.

[gphung]

Mine corner balanced on Ohlins with -2.8 degrees of camber up front.

[N44RP]

Im considering ohlins for a strictly street driven car. Are there any updated opinions of these regarding comfort? I’m not sure if everyone at the time had their latest kit (-41)

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by N44RP

Im considering ohlins for a strictly street driven car. Are there any updated opinions of these regarding comfort? I’m not sure if everyone at the time had their latest kit (-41)

Drop the spring rate in the back or both front and back and you will be good to go for street duty.

PM us if you have further questions. We can set you up with Swift springs at rates of your choice. We just need to know how your like the OE ride right now and tailor the spring rates to improve it.

[Toroinu]

Bumping this up as I’m looking to install my ohlins in the next few weeks.

Does anyone have pictures of ride height with recommended settings (118mm) on the strut?

Seems like if you want to adjust the front, you have to take the whole strut out to change settings so I’m hoping to do it on the first try or as little tries as possible.

For those who did not measure the strut length, could you please provide pictures of threads?

Thanks!

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by Toroinu

Bumping this up as I’m looking to install my ohlins in the next few weeks.

Does anyone have pictures of ride height with recommended settings (118mm) on the strut?

Seems like if you want to adjust the front, you have to take the whole strut out to change settings so I’m hoping to do it on the first try or as little tries as possible.

For those who did not measure the strut length, could you please provide pictures of threads?

Thanks!

Adjusting the front height is more of a pain since you have to drop the knuckle off of the strut a bit. No need to undo anything on the top portion of the strut though, and can leave it in the car.

[Toroinu]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

Adjusting the front height is more of a pain since you have to drop the knuckle off of the strut a bit. No need to undo anything on the top portion of the strut though, and can leave it in the car.

Yup that’s what I’m looking to avoid if possible. Obviously getting the perfect ride height is hard on the first try but wanted to get a good idea of starting point.