12-29-2017, 02:20 PM | #1 |
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Adding back insulation to the M2
I know that this topic has been touched on before but it was some time ago so wanted to see if there was anyone with experience in this area.
First off some background. I used to race bikes and fly noisy planes and as a result I have a hearing loss in some frequencies. I drive a stick and am very aware of what is happening with the engine at all times. I do not however want to live in the engine bay. I love the sound of a loud exhaust but want to leave it behind on a road trip. To get these results I have decided to replace the sound insulation on my 2018 M2. This will include all except the upper fire wall insulation as I don't want to pull the dash at this time. Doors, rear wells, door/engine rubber trim. I wonder if any other forum members have spent $400 on these parts and competed the install? How were the results? Please don't post about loss of the "visceral" experience unless you have at least bypassed your ASD. Thanks! |
12-29-2017, 10:00 PM | #2 |
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I don't think that is what's missing. Those pads are also for heat rejection to the interior. Most of the noise insulation is what is sprayed on before the car is painted. I remember reading that most of this was in the doors and the rear of the car. I myself can't tell much road noise difference between the M240 and the M2. I did add the front door seals to mine and that got rid of some front tire noise. Even the regular 2 series coupes need these added back.
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12-29-2017, 10:15 PM | #3 | |
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12-30-2017, 07:30 PM | #4 |
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GregoryK, I am in the same boat as you. While I find the exhaust note delightful in city and backroad driving, it does have a very unpleasant and loud drone between 1700 and 2200 rpm in highway driving. I have coded out ASD to no avail.
My plan of attack, when it gets warmer, is to add sound deadening material to the metal pan where the battery is, and the rear wheel wells (inside the lining). If that doesn’t get the job done, then perhaps doing the same to the rear seat metal pan (part 1 in your 2nd pic).
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12-30-2017, 07:43 PM | #5 |
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Technic sells a wiring permanent bypass. No coding required. I would recommend that right out of the gate.
Easy and the canbus will allow the bypass on software upgrades. Let me know if you need his contact infoinfo. |
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12-31-2017, 10:38 AM | #6 |
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Looks like you may want to contact TYSP33D regarding his opposite thread to yours...
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12-31-2017, 03:30 PM | #7 |
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I'm in the same boat, as I find the engine noise within the cabin a little annoying on long drives.
Installing the insulation between the doors & wings made little or no noticeable difference in road noise. However, adding the under hood insulation noticeably reduced the engine noise from the cabin. I would suggest doing this as an initial step this should really help. MJ |
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12-31-2017, 04:35 PM | #8 | |
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It is very interesting about the sound deadening. Thanx for sharing. |
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12-31-2017, 05:07 PM | #9 |
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Thanks for the info. What I meant was I successfully coded out ASD but the drone remains.
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12-31-2017, 05:14 PM | #10 | |
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It is very interesting about the sound deadening. Thanx for sharing. |
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12-31-2017, 05:34 PM | #11 | |
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I get it if you spend every weekend at the track but if you want to drive theses on the highway drone is pretty unacceptable. ....unless you are 20....( no offence if you are!) |
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12-31-2017, 11:04 PM | #12 | |
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06-17-2018, 03:18 PM | #14 |
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OP, curious as to the final results on your sound insulation project. I’m also planning on reducing road noise as much as possible at freeway speeds. Please let me know how this turned out. Thank you.
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06-18-2018, 06:53 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
http://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...ulation&page=6 The thread is titled "Sound Deadening"
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