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      01-16-2017, 09:50 AM   #1
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JB+ vs. Dinan Sport Tuner

So has anyone tried both for comparison? I have the JB+ now and think that it makes pretty good power. But I was thinking about swapping it out for the Dinan piece. Just trying to see if it is actually worth it.
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      01-16-2017, 12:29 PM   #2
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I've been following the Dinan Sport Tuner threads also. I believe they both max out at +4psi. I have a JB+ for the record. They work exactly the same way by modifying the air sensor reading to trick turbo into making higher boost. DME takes just a split second to catch up and add required fuel. The only benefit of the Dinan I'm aware of is the Bluetooth logging and switching capabilities. Most of us just crank the JB+ up to max anyway and never mess with it again. So far, with a DP and IC, the car pulls very well. Under full throttle, the tires never hook up until halfway through 3rd gear. Very amusing I would've bought the Dinan if it was available a few months back. 100$ extra over the JB+ is nothing. If anybody else has more/better info please add on.
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      01-16-2017, 01:43 PM   #3
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My understanding was basically the same as yours. Yeah, I have mine cranked up all the way too. I will probably just stick with JB+ for now (unless anyone wants to buy mine, lol). I don't really care about the bluetooth and data logging ability. I have the Dinan resonator delete installed and was thinking about getting the Dinan Intake and Fabspeed HFC. Both for added power and sound.
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      01-16-2017, 03:01 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twin fed View Post
I have the JB+ now and think that it makes pretty good power.
What does "pretty good" mean? What's the difference in peak HP from stock? Presumably nothing on 91, but on 93?
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      01-16-2017, 03:14 PM   #5
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How do you crank up the jb+ to max?
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      01-16-2017, 03:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenmaster View Post
What does "pretty good" mean? What's the difference in peak HP from stock? Presumably nothing on 91, but on 93?
I mean that I definitely noticed a difference over not having it installed. I would say that bang for the buck you are not going to find more power cheaper.
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      01-16-2017, 03:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jchn View Post
How do you crank up the jb+ to max?
If you open up the unit there is a little dial with a + and - and if you turn it all the way to the + that is a 4psi boost.
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      01-16-2017, 07:03 PM   #8
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Both unit are almost identical and will make same power ... They add boost and both max out at +4 psi

Only difference is that Dinan has Bluetooth feature and that will cost you an extra $100
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      01-17-2017, 09:20 AM   #9
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Send me a MSG if you want to sell your JB+
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      01-17-2017, 09:28 AM   #10
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Mike nailed it.

Dinan sport tuner and jb+ trick only the boost and flow mass and relies on DME adapting the rest. That's why they have only 2 wires and take 30 secs to install.
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      01-17-2017, 10:11 AM   #11
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Send me a MSG if you want to sell your JB+
ok, will do
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      01-17-2017, 11:30 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twin fed View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jchn View Post
How do you crank up the jb+ to max?
If you open up the unit there is a little dial with a + and - and if you turn it all the way to the + that is a 4psi boost.
I opened mine up and it says Min on the left and Max on the right, I turned it to the last "-" above max. Before I changed it, it was at the square right before the dash so I assumed it did something. Or could it be that the DME/ECU adjusted over time to compensate for the extra boost and that removing it for a few hours had "reset" it?
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      01-17-2017, 01:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jchn View Post
I opened mine up and it says Min on the left and Max on the right, I turned it to the last "-" above max. Before I changed it, it was at the square right before the dash so I assumed it did something. Or could it be that the DME/ECU adjusted over time to compensate for the extra boost and that removing it for a few hours had "reset" it?
Not 100% sure but as long as it is all the way to the MAX setting, you are all good.
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      01-17-2017, 01:19 PM   #14
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Should there be any serious concern for safety and longevity of the car/motor with going either of these routes?
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      01-17-2017, 01:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Should there be any serious concern for safety and longevity of the car/motor with going either of these routes?
No both are very safe even for completely stock cars
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      10-24-2017, 09:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by LBBDrew View Post
Should there be any serious concern for safety and longevity of the car/motor with going either of these routes?
No both are very safe even for completely stock cars
Can you explain why? Even Dinan mentions in their webpage that this setup is bad for the car and not very effective
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      10-25-2017, 07:36 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subliminalaudio View Post
Can you explain why? Even Dinan mentions in their webpage that this setup is bad for the car and not very effective
?? Can you link this statement??
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      10-25-2017, 08:16 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subliminalaudio View Post
Can you explain why? Even Dinan mentions in their webpage that this setup is bad for the car and not very effective
Theorectically they are safe because while the car thinks there is lower air mass flow, all of the other sensors are reading real values. Timing, temp, fuel, boost pressure, wg duty cycle are not overridden. What you get is what ever margin BMW built in to maintain consistent power output regardless of atmospheric changes such as due to elevation and air temp.

Some turbo car manufacturers ECU's don't aim for consistency and will give you max power for conditions. In some cases, considerably more on cold days.

However, BMW's DME is programmed for consistent power output. So on cold days, if more dense air is detected, turbo is told not to work as hard. At lower elevations, turbo is told not to work as hard. Meanwhile, there is usually untapped, available margin for safely raising boost under those conditions.

JB+ and Dinan Sport tuner effectively give you that margin back, albeit under all conditions. They are marketed as boost controllers for some reason, but that is somewhat misleading, because they only indirectly cause boost to raise.

Why can this be unsafe? Because the car may not adapt fast enough on the more extreme tuner-device settings if low MAF signal and air is hot or gas is lower octane. In general, you want cooler air if you're raising boost like on the order of 30deg F per 1PSI, or increase octane which lowers combustion temps. 1PSI per 2AKI.

Terry ran an instrumented, stock M2 on 91oct on his dyno and got timing pull up top. To me this means don't add a tune the car without first flowing more air, or lowering temps or using higher octane, as car has effectively used up its safety margin.

Last edited by zenmaster; 10-25-2017 at 08:21 AM..
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      10-25-2017, 08:58 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenmaster View Post
Theorectically they are safe because while the car thinks there is lower air mass flow, all of the other sensors are reading real values. Timing, temp, fuel, boost pressure, wg duty cycle are not overridden. What you get is what ever margin BMW built in to maintain consistent power output regardless of atmospheric changes such as due to elevation and air temp.

Some turbo car manufacturers ECU's don't aim for consistency and will give you max power for conditions. In some cases, considerably more on cold days.

However, BMW's DME is programmed for consistent power output. So on cold days, if more dense air is detected, turbo is told not to work as hard. At lower elevations, turbo is told not to work as hard. Meanwhile, there is usually untapped, available margin for safely raising boost under those conditions.

JB+ and Dinan Sport tuner effectively give you that margin back, albeit under all conditions. They are marketed as boost controllers for some reason, but that is somewhat misleading, because they only indirectly cause boost to raise.

Why can this be unsafe? Because the car may not adapt fast enough on the more extreme tuner-device settings if low MAF signal and air is hot or gas is lower octane. In general, you want cooler air if you're raising boost like on the order of 30deg F per 1PSI, or increase octane which lowers combustion temps. 1PSI per 2AKI.

Terry ran an instrumented, stock M2 on 91oct on his dyno and got timing pull up top. To me this means don't add a tune the car without first flowing more air, or lowering temps or using higher octane, as car has effectively used up its safety margin.
Agreeing with this, my car with a tune installed pulled harder to redline after installing the Dinan FMIC.
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      10-25-2017, 12:39 PM   #20
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Good write up
Thanks
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      10-31-2017, 12:44 PM   #21
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I run the JB+ in my M2 with DP and intake. With some RON 98 (93 to you guys), it pulls noticeably stronger, even pulled a guy with a DP and JB4 on map 1 but with RON 95. Only issue I've had is that I loose that really nice bang in second gear if floor it and pull off below 4800 rev/min...? Anybody else get that ?
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      10-31-2017, 12:56 PM   #22
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Is the slightly delay of the DME to adjust the fuel and timing noticeable while driving? I am interesting in getting a cheaper option like one of these to couple with a FMIC that would be easy to take out if I wanted to change it later on.

I have a DCT full dinan exhaust and drop in filter.
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