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M2 Technical Topics > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in | Oil & Fluids | Servicing | TSB | Recalls > Typical "break in" Period for a M2 Car

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      04-18-2016, 01:01 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR. View Post
Read the manual guys... It states exactly what is not allowed!
Can't go wrong with what's coming straight from the manufacturer.
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      04-25-2016, 06:56 PM   #68
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I just got the car!!! I'm like super excited!! Need to re-read this asap
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      04-25-2016, 06:59 PM   #69
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I've been driving it up to 4,400 RPM because that's what I thought the number was...now that I just re-read these thread. I get an additional 1100....WOOT
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      04-25-2016, 11:21 PM   #70
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Has anyone "accidentally" went over 5500 rpms?
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      04-26-2016, 11:29 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by RingMeister01 View Post
In further response to your curiosity, i got a video and literature about the development of the E46 when I bought mine back in 2001 and in this documentary they showed a dyno at the end of assembly and stated "every BMW is tested to ensure it meets its specified power.." Something like that. They show the pull and the computer with instruments measuring power output. Then the car gets released. I think they now test the motors before they go in to save on production delays, not sure but really cool.
If you tour the factory, I did Spartanburg, they drive the car up to rollers, these big padded arms come out and stabilize the car side to side and the guy revs it up to test whatever they test, then they drive it outside on the test track.
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      04-27-2016, 02:20 PM   #72
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Does anyone know if Engine braking is bad for the car?

I would like to Drive up to about 4000 RPMS and then release the throttle and revs slowly move to 3,000 or even 2,500 before downshifting.
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      04-28-2016, 01:52 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeCrush View Post
Has anyone "accidentally" went over 5500 rpms?
I have a couple of times on accident. It's pretty easy to do in 1st gear as the car revs so fast. I've also gone WOT a couple times for a split second, but as soon as I realized it I eased off.
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      04-28-2016, 03:37 PM   #74
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I noticed the car takes forever to warm up. I'm literally just waiting in the parking lot
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      05-02-2016, 10:39 PM   #75
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I'm seeing a lot of people taking the 4,500 and 5,500rpm limit and running with it.

It doesn't mean "you can go full throttle until 5500rpm and everything is fine". That's not following the recommended break-in procedure what so ever.

Gradual load changes/rpm variances while never going more than partial throttle is what is recommended. Not simply a rev limit of 5,500rpm.

Gone are the days of scrapping casting mistakes off of internals but that doesn't mean there aren't many microscopic peaks and valleys that need to settle in.

The diff and clutch are other big factors. Driving the car like you stole it may be some owners way of dealing with break-in and that's fine, but driving like that is NEVER good for a new clutch. Just that should be enough for most.

I get it, the Moto-man write up is fantastic, and there IS some truth to it. But don't disregard everything just because a motorcycle engine builder told you it was ok and made a website about it.

If it was all a legal conspiracy then why is BMW M wasting millions of dollars servicing these cars at 1,200 miles? Going as far as changing out brand new transmission oil, diff oil and engine oil?

Don't blame it on Bush.
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      05-03-2016, 03:28 PM   #76
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What kind of oil are you guys using during break-in? What oil do you plan on changing to when break in is done?
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      06-19-2016, 01:03 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elsharkyyturbo2
What kind of oil are you guys using during break-in? What oil do you plan on changing to when break in is done?
I think whatever the dealer is supplying. They would change both the Diff and the engine oil
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      06-20-2016, 09:54 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dammitcubs View Post
I noticed the car takes forever to warm up. I'm literally just waiting in the parking lot
You need to drive it to warm it up.
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      07-23-2016, 05:30 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David1 View Post
You need to drive it to warm it up.
It is not good to let your car sit to warm up the engine... it's not like the old days. When you start the cold engine, it'll rev for a bit and comes back down, then it's ready to drive. But before the temp goes up, you gotta take it slow with the car.

With regards to new car break-in, I say just go at it with varying speeds and rpm, but try not to hold a constant rpm. Don't use engine brake...

I am picking up my M2 in two days and I gotta be driving on the highway for 1.5hr, which I am just gonna go fast then let it decelerate then accelerate hard then decelerate etc... also gotta bed your brakes too

Anyway, nowadays with all the new models being introduced so fast, probably only 10~20% of the people will see the end of their M2, so... just go at it, or else you are just babying your car for the next owner...

I treasure my cars and take good care of them, but I believe they are meant to be driven with passion and fun, not with anxiety and fear of the car not being properly broken in.
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      07-26-2016, 09:51 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acexxon View Post
Don't use engine brake...
It's actually the opposite. You want to perform quite a bit of engine braking during break in, especially the first few hundred miles, to seat the rings in order to prevent blow-by.
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      08-01-2016, 02:11 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epinfren View Post
It's actually the opposite. You want to perform quite a bit of engine braking during break in, especially the first few hundred miles, to seat the rings in order to prevent blow-by.
This conflicts with the owner's manual's procedure... but I guess whatever works right?

I've been going at it after I passed 1500km (not miles) mark, the first service is due in another 500km. No red line, but I also did engine brakes going through the twisties... just couldn't resist going fast in the mountains.

This is an amazing car, but I find the stock suspension a bit soft, looking to switch to KW V3 or Clubsport...
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      08-02-2016, 09:27 AM   #82
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Its not the motors you're breaking in, its the rear diff.
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      09-21-2016, 12:00 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acexxon View Post
It is not good to let your car sit to warm up the engine... it's not like the old days. When you start the cold engine, it'll rev for a bit and comes back down, then it's ready to drive. But before the temp goes up, you gotta take it slow with the car...
I idle until the revs drop then take it a "bit" easy until up to temp.
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      09-21-2016, 12:05 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RingMeister01 View Post
You have to load the engine guys. Full throttle on and off to compress and seat the rings of the piston. Those of you who are "babying" your break-ins are doing irreparable harm to your pistons. You'll experience better gas milage and power if you vary your engine speeds and load the motor. For example, hit the highway and do 40 - 80 mph pulls at full throttle at low, mid and then higher rpm's maybe 10 times. Do an oil change and you'RE done. Thats the break-in.


FYI you do know that before any cars leaves the BMW factory ill go through a dyno pull...right?
Not sure if it is all BMWs or just Ms but, I do know and dealer confirmed for the M2 they put in a viscous engine and differential oils, which are replaced after the 1200 mile service.

Last edited by omasou; 12-15-2016 at 04:18 PM..
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      09-21-2016, 12:11 PM   #85
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This is a decent article the explains the break-in is not only about the engine...

http://www.bimmerfile.com/2011/09/16...ar-or-any-bmw/
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      09-22-2016, 09:06 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RingMeister01 View Post

IMO this suggested break in by manufacturers are to get you familiar with your new car safely.. It's their attorney that wrote what's in your manual.
Agreed!

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Originally Posted by RingMeister01 View Post

When I bought my $36,000 Panigale R (I'm just representing that this is a valuable bike) the dealer told me to go straight on the highway and do 8 full throttle 4-5th gear pulls from 100-160 (aerodynamic so you need high speed for wind resistance). Motor is a gem.
Very nice bike
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      10-15-2016, 04:12 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dammitcubs View Post
I noticed the car takes forever to warm up. I'm literally just waiting in the parking lot
If you read the manual, it is strongly advised to run straight away from start to warm up the engine in the best and quickest manner
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      10-15-2016, 08:08 PM   #88
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I usually drive soon after starting but i'll wait till the temp gauge says "OK" not "COLD" before getting on it too hard.
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