[DKX4///M]

Originally Posted by firestarter2

Im curious how this turns out I was looking at the CO2 stuff for my last car

Finally someone else that realizes how effective a tool C02 can be on a car that heat soaks after one long pull in the summer....As earlier stated, had it at -61 without water/antifreeze being sprayed. Worst case, no more loss of performance due to soak or even a warmer i/c, best case -30 to -60 degree intake air increases intake suction and the car picks up double digit hp gains....

I'm thinking it will give me a HUGE advantage on hot summer track days...Good drag radials/slicks with rubber softening compound on a hot day i could get a sub 2 sec 60ft with the performance of the car on a freeezing cold day...

[DKX4///M]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

I'm curious to know how this turns out. Final dyno numbers.

E series N55's FBO and 50 shot dyno'd at 500 +. Ive seen between low 500's and as high as 550. Ill be running my 3" open exhaust valve and c02 super cooling intake which at high boost/n20 runs will add tremendous power (I suspect) and the laws of physics support...That btw was with e series n55's on 10psi-12psi...running 14-15 may be a disadvantage with n20 without timing adjustments especially...But safe to say 500+wheel on a generous dyno. Well see.

[DKX4///M]

Originally Posted by Gatte

We're all lurkers.

Is it even safe to put all the stuff you've been putting into your car ??

Also, where do you stand on the closed deck/open deck stance for the engine in the M2. The reason I ask is because, you've probably done some research prior to modding your car.

Short answer. Yes, if installed properly and proper safeguards in place. Firstly water/methanol and nitrous are like bread and butter. Meth makes nitrous much safer and much less prone to detonation. C02 will never enter the engine and will simply freeze intercooler so simply put meth and c02 are not only NOT dangrerous, they make the engine safer. The Nitrous is dangerous but with proper fueling and used to allow me to run lower boost and make peak hp in the proper RPM range for racing, a 35-50 shot is usually fine for any stock engine, even forced induction and usually adds double to triple the power on a turbo car. Also the dyno number will improve way less than the actual performance numbers....Racing you stay between 5-7 where the hp has fallen off to the 200's, if i can make 500 or even 450 at 6k, drag times will be radically improved and bc its activated upon full traction at higher RPMs its added power without the associated traction issues.

[DKX4///M]

Groups called #2LIFE....Buddy Harold, I think "Luminous" on this forum has the Enzo Custom Big Turbo M235xi, and my boy Bryan has a FBO M235xi thats been featured in BMW CCA Mag & more...

Yesterday at Atco Raceway, Bryan shattered what I believe is the stock turbo 1/4 mile record for a F series N55....

As a little Side Business I have a ton a cameras and production equipment, data acquisition software and produce 1080, 4k, and 360* VR drag strip or track videos, (Track Day Productions)....I recorded his run yesterday as well as a VR Video of the 11.8 @ 115mph vs. Big Turbo M235xi. Both Cars were built and tuned by Enzo Racing, Long Island NY...

And believe it or not the day ended with a BOMB THREAT, and a free rain date will be set...Who calls in a bomb threat to a drag strip? Most of the cars there are bombs anyway LMAO....Production of Harolds Big Turbo Record "Fastest F series N55" will come soon...

Check out the videos...

(Drag around the screen to experience the 360* Video)

[JustChris]

Appreciate the time you've taken to update these posts. I for one love the thread. Please keep the pics coming. I'm shallow and like pictures

[DKX4///M]

Originally Posted by JustChris

Appreciate the time you've taken to update these posts. I for one love the thread. Please keep the pics coming. I'm shallow and like pictures

I really appreciate that bro. Ill upload some pics shortly of some new stuff...

[LBBDrew]

DKM3Power Hey bro, I know your car has gone through some shit, but how is your spoiler holding up/you still liking it?

[DKX4///M]

Absolutely. Still Looks great...Considering moving to the squared out version, IDK if youve seen it or not....Autotechnik Carbon parts have always been of OEM quality (fo me at least)

The replica non name chinese mirrors howerever, are getting some premature wear...

Ppl are going to filp about this because I know most hate them....But I ordered M3/m4 style carbon mirrors....I personally think they look great with the M2s body line, so i could care less if people scream heresy lmao.

[DKX4///M]

Since running a wet shot (w Low boost, and Bootmode 3 Nitrous map) I needed fuel and stealing from OEM fuel system considering the stories of failure and its inability to supply the needed Fuel...I decided to build a stand alone fuel enrichment (S.A.F.E. System as NX Express calls it).... Very simple really...

Parts needed:
1. In Tank or In Line High pressure pump, or Low pressure/High Volume pump...Note :N02 running through the line @ over 1000psi needs a high pressure pump and preferably a time to postpone the fuel solenoid opening vs N02 solenoid....Obviously without N02 will hit engine first and without time to richen a catastophic pre-detonantion is almost guaranteed

2.HP Fuel Pressure Regulator (By-pass Style) Adjustable between 40-120psi w boost reference Vacccum Line

3.Fuel cell preferably with Level Sender or safety shutdown, Return Port, and Sea-Foam for "Anti Slosh Purpose (Not Needed nut highly recommended) As chances are, under heavy acceleration iusually happens to be same time extra fuel is needed...

4. SS Braided fuel hoses to run to fuel solenoid and bypass line....Rubber OE Fuel line will expand at such high pressures making delivery unpredictable.

Now lets get scientific: Fuel Requirements 101

To calculate needed extra fuel we need a few things but since this is only pumping as a Nitrous booster to avoid messing with factory fuel system I will use general rules of thumb and when tuning nitrous, a ol fashioned Wide Band 02 will help me determine proper pressure later on..
...YOu also need to know...

Specs needed:
1. BSFC - short for brake specific fuel consumption, basically the amount of fuel a specific engine requires to make 1 BHP for 1 Hour

A.Rule of thumb (and this is to start, fine tuning comes later)
-Naturally aspirated Engines typically have BSFC around .5 lbs per hour of 93 ..Octane (AKI)
-Ethanol and Methanol are higher due to there lower Potential Energy, usually around double for 100% Methyl Alcohol. So 1.8-2 pounds/hr

To get specific BSFC you really would need a dyno, so well work with generalities....

*** Forced Induction / N02 cars require need about .6-.7+ lbs/hr per Crank HP***
N/A Engines slightly less...

2. Volumetric Efficiency of the platform...while not needed, it makes for a closure to perfect result off the bat, the higher the "volumetric efficiency" of an engine the less fuel, as its burning more efficiently.


Although they need MUCH more Meth, sometimes up to 2lbs per hr per BHP. This is due to the lower potential energy and "specific heat" a relatively large amount is can remain un-burned, absorbing heat and dissipation. Hence why it's so great as a race fuel....

3: A close approximation of Brake Horse Power target...

-So My M2 w FBO should be making FLYWHEEL HP in the range of 500-550 with a 50 Wet Shot on around 14PSI (Maybe going higher at the track, but trying not to get to far ahead of myself.) This is based on Older N55's nitrous numbers I found and is more conservative as a few older N55s with forged rods/pistons, WPC treated bearings were making close to 600 crank, 550 wheel... with 50-75 wet shots and water methanol for added knock prevention.

4. The Vehicles OEM fuel capability or more importantly usage
Obviously need to subtract this from overall fuel requirement.

5.pumping losses as some in line pumps can lose 5-10+ PSI some extreme cases even more...

So Some Basic Math...550 bhp (Better safe than sorry aka more fuel is 1000x's better than not enough) x's .6 lbs.hr = 330 lbs per hour TOTAL (Obviously at WOT)....Now remember. I'm still using the OEM Fuel system, so I am calculating total fuel required. BMW as most car makers utilize the same formula although
1. They calculate the actual BSFC
2. They also run slightly rich from the factory as a rich LAMBDA is much less prone to detonation...12.0-12.2 is a good safety margin, allows decent 10-15* advance, doesn't wreck fuel economy and still can make good power....Although "Leaner is Meaner"...

Here I will calculate OVERALL fuel needed and subtract what the stocks pumps supply.

Rule #3 Factory High Performance Forced induction cars can usually can supply 10% more fuel than programmed with.

*Note!! Inline pumps are not good at pulling, so they should be placed as close to fuel source as possible

So, figure WITHOUT meth or N02 on lower boost levels (12-14 to start)...So for simplicity, lets say 400 lbs per hour of fuel to push 550 crank....

A lbs of gas = about 6.54 US Gallons so 400lbs divided by 6.54gals per lbs per hr = 61.1XX Gal per Hr...Considering the OEM System is already conservatively supplying close to 40 gal/hr....Wallah I need an extra 25 gallons per hr to be on the safe side. I'm also using water methanol so this is very conservative.

Lastly we must add some flexibility in here as the amount of fuel needed at 7k RPMS and 14psi w/ N02 is obviously much higher than at 3000rpms so the regulator comes with a boost reference.'

This is the simplest concept of this whole endeavor...All these numbers are at sea level which is about 14.7 psi of atmospheric pressure....as boost rises the amount of fuel needed has a direct 1:1 correlation...so at 0psi (14.7 to be specific) if 20 Gal/hr is needed...And my pump pushes 46gal/hr @ 40psi at of fuel pressure (at approx 13.5v), every 10psi of boost should raise fuel pressure 10psi...

Considering I'm starting slow and working my way up and will be installing the N02 with a pretty big safety margin and in higher temps than present....I picked a pump that at peak performance hypothetically could support 20psi of boost and a 50+ wetshot of N02...

However I dont plan on ever going even close to that so this name brand pump operating at a small fraction of its potential should enjoy long life....

It's been a while but I think my math and memory serves correct. But hopefully some of you that are looking to learn read this and it will help you in the future as these rules apply to bigger turbos, super high octane race fuels and even stand alone fuel systems...

Feel free to ask any constructive questions....

[Artemis]

Originally Posted by DKM3Power

Since running a wet shot (w Low boost, and Bootmode 3 Nitrous map) I needed fuel and stealing from OEM fuel system considering the stories of failure and its inability to supply the needed Fuel...I decided to build a stand alone fuel enrichment (S.A.F.E. System as NX Express calls it).... Very simple really...
Grabbed an MSD Pump that pushes about 46GPH @ 40 psi
[...]
Considering I'm starting slow and working my way up and will be installing the N02 with a pretty big safety margin and in higher temps than present....I picked a pump that at peak performance hypothetically could support 20psi of boost and a 50+ wetshot of N02...
However I dont plan on ever going even close to that so this name brand pump operating at a small fraction of its potential should enjoy long life....

Keep on the safe side, man. Safety first !

Also consider adding a fire extinguisher at arms' length, just in case things go wrong.

[DKX4///M]

Originally Posted by Artemis

Keep on the safe side, man. Safety first !

Also consider adding a fire extinguisher at arms' length, just in case things go wrong.

LMAO ILL do you one better. Since as you intelligently pointed out, fuel lines under or through the car should be joined by a fire suppressant...Of course my whacky ass thought of a more creative and hopefully more affective way...

Im already running C02 lines under the car ( contents of FI Obviously) I was going to run a 3rd solenoid or my purge solenoid to run a parrallel c02 line directly next to the fuel line with small holes and a fire extinguish button...1st sign of flames and Ill empty my 10lbs bottle under the car lmao.

But prob should have a fire extinguisher as a backup LMAO

[DKX4///M]

Fuel System Components.

1. MSD 46 G/hr High Pressure iN line Pump
2. 8 Gallon Polished Fuel Cell w/ level sender and anti slosh foam
3. 100 Micron Fuel Lab Filer (<1psi pressure drop)
4.15' SS Braided lines and -6AN Fittings/adapters for 3/8NPT
5. Fuel Lab Blue Anodized Fuel Pressure Regulator Adjustable from 1-140 PSI (Boost reference 1:1
6. Blue Anodized Manifold tap kit w 5 boost distribution ports ( 1 for Gauge, 1 boost activated exhaust valve , boost source for fpr.
7. 3 way fogger nozzle system normally used for 2 stage nitrous kit. ( 1 for fuel, 1 for meth, 1 low rpm n02, 1 for high rpm nitrous triggered at 5k.

***NOTE: METH/N02/FUEL Flow chart is for 4 cyl. Just do the math: X= required fuel per 4 cyl divide by 2...Add that number to 4 cyl requirment.

[firestarter2]

Are you still intending a easily returnable to stock solution?

Originally Posted by DKM3Power

Fuel System Components.

1. MSD 46 G/hr High Pressure iN line Pump
2. 8 Gallon Polished Fuel Cell w/ level sender and anti slosh foam
3. 100 Micron Fuel Lab Filer (<1psi pressure drop)
4.15' SS Braided lines and -6AN Fittings/adapters for 3/8NPT
5. Fuel Lab Blue Anodized Fuel Pressure Regulator Adjustable from 1-140 PSI (Boost reference 1:1
6. Blue Anodized Manifold tap kit w 5 boost distribution ports ( 1 for Gauge, 1 boost activated exhaust valve , boost source for fpr.
7. 3 way fogger nozzle system normally used for 2 stage nitrous kit. ( 1 for fuel, 1 for meth, 1 low rpm n02, 1 for high rpm nitrous triggered at 5k.

[DKX4///M]

Originally Posted by firestarter2

Are you still intending a easily returnable to stock solution?

Yes TBH that is the main reason I went this route over a stage 3 turbo...Instant power, and any experienced mechanic could ewmove it without a trace in less than an hr. Wirings toughest removal so I am going to use BMW OEM connectors and pins so the harness for n02 meth are plug n play...

[DKX4///M]

As most of you know BMS is without a doubt one of the best makers of BMW aftermarket parts. The intake for the N55 which fits (And im sure i missed some): It does lack protection from the harsh under hood temps, so I built a cheesy shield that did the trick...Now I need a metal intake so Ill let this one go for $150 (with new permanent fabricated heat shield)

It fits many applications:

BMW M135
• 2012+ F20/F21 M135i/iX

BMW M235
• 2014+ F22 M235i
• 2016+ F87 M2

BMW 3 Series
• 2012+ F30 335i/iX Sedan
• 2012+ F31 335i/iX Touring
• 2013+ F34 335i/iX Gran Turismo

BMW 4 Series
• 2014+ F32 435i/iX
• 2014+ F33 435i/iX Conv.
• 2014+ F36 435i/iX Gran Coupe


It is the largest diameter piping from all after market applications and has the largest filter surface area. BMS Claims (from memory 11+whp and 15+tq) on a stock M2. It also retains OEM Lower Air box for the BMWs already great intake system . Tests actually showed BMS to outflow OEM by up to 23% especially at high RPMs where the restrictive filter and itake tube become the bottle neck of the engine, essentially choking it...It's the best intake available except for the fact its without any heat shield....I added a cheesy one and according to dash command n torque MAF flow increased and IAT decreased slightly lower than factory.

...As we all know, under hood temps (On my M2 at least) are ridiculous... So I remedied this issue by making a simple yet effective sheet metal heat shield covered on both sides with aluminum insulation,...I was planning on building a better permanent one b4 summer...

While some report CELs with after market intakes, I havent had a CEL from this and had it as my only mod for weeks before adding a catless VRSF dp, JB4 and dyno tuned BEF by EnzoRacing ...

...As we all know, under hood temps (On my M2 at least) are ridiculous... So this simple yet effective sheet metal heat shield covered on both sides with aluminum insulation gave the best of both worlds I believe the butt dyno did feel a difference in power but the sound is what sets it apart .I was planning on building a better permanent one b4 summer with thicker sheet metal.


***Like all intake the nice blue filter has faded to reddish brown, but i'm sure can replaced. Heres a vid of sound, and image after installation...

631 416 6898 Dan...Will also sell for 100 and OEM intake.

[DKX4///M]

ALSO FOR SALE:

3/4 OF BMS METHANOL KIT, SAVE MONEY....

1 GAL BMS RESEVOIR
15'NYLON HOSE
220 PSI PUMP
CM7 NOZZLE

first $100 Cash Takes it...Only need FSB and a solenoid (universal and cheap)

[DKX4///M]

All the fuel system parts have come besides some line adapters...Now my least favorite part, cutting the SS lines and pressing the twist on tops...

If anyone needs to know how do do this, my boss taught me an easier way years ago...

1.measure lines and mark desired length.
2. wrap electrical (or any tape around where the cut will be)
3. use a hack saw to cut the line, the tape will hold the ss braids in place...
4 with the ends in a vice grip push the line in with all your strength.
5 make sure its ALL the way in and mark a line so if it starts falling off you'll notice.
6. Use pointy tool to expand SS line into end cap.
7. Tighten the line to desired spot (this makes the final seal)

**I recommend using glue, thread lock or something extra to keep the line in place.

[firestarter2]

5 inch grinder with a cutting blade works better then a hacksaw. Also a zip tie(plastic) works better then electrical tap just cut to the edge and through the thick part of the zip tie. Make the zip tie tight.

Looks like you are going AN fitting to barbed to SS house with a clamp? That doesn't seem safe at all hard to tell from the picture. But if you do that then how you cut isn't as important. Using the reusable AN to SS ends my way will be much easier.

You can also use a dremel but I found it brittle and harder to control

http://morelandhose.com/ out by you has fittings and will make hoses pretty cheap (ive only been to the one on hempstead)

Be safe

[DKX4///M]

Originally Posted by firestarter2

5 inch grinder with a cutting blade works better then a hacksaw. Also a zip tie(plastic) works better then electrical tap just cut to the edge and through the thick part of the zip tie. Make the zip tie tight.

Looks like you are going AN fitting to barbed to SS house with a clamp? That doesn't seem safe at all hard to tell from the picture. But if you do that then how you cut isn't as important. Using the reusable AN to SS ends my way will be much easier.

You can also use a dremel but I found it brittle and harder to control

http://morelandhose.com/ out by you has fittings and will make hoses pretty cheap (ive only been to the one on hempstead)

Be safe

Good advice, def will make it easier...

I have not attached any fitting to the lines yet, so idk what your reffering to...if its the pic with the ss line clamped onto the return port fitting from the bottom of the regulator, there's no AN fitting...for the return i just used a screw on anodized fuel port( DK what its officially called) but that particular attachment is just clamp on. Even so it's not permanent. This will look like art when finished

There will be fire suppression (remember i have a 10lbs bottle of c02 in the car too LOL...and this is months from being utilized...still im waiting for some 10AN to 8AN Adaptors, and 8AN to 6AN, and 6AN to 4AN when then the larger line switches to the 4AN fuel line to the nozzle...

[DKX4///M]

Originally Posted by firestarter2

5 inch grinder with a cutting blade works better then a hacksaw. Also a zip tie(plastic) works better then electrical tap just cut to the edge and through the thick part of the zip tie. Make the zip tie tight.

Looks like you are going AN fitting to barbed to SS house with a clamp? That doesn't seem safe at all hard to tell from the picture. But if you do that then how you cut isn't as important. Using the reusable AN to SS ends my way will be much easier.

You can also use a dremel but I found it brittle and harder to control

http://morelandhose.com/ out by you has fittings and will make hoses pretty cheap (ive only been to the one on hempstead)

Be safe

Thanks for the link, funny, ones in Oakdale, which is less than 5 minutes from my house. Ill deff check em out and if i run into any issues i may ask to pick your brain.

[medphysdave]

This may have been mentioned, but I'd pipe in an electronic fuel pressure signal into the cabin to be read via whatever method you choose.

Or some safety cutoff that renders the NO2 system inactive if the addon fuel supply is acting sketchy.

[Artemis]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

This may have been mentioned, but I'd pipe in an electronic fuel pressure signal into the cabin to be read via whatever method you choose.
Or some safety cutoff that renders the NO2 system inactive if the addon fuel supply is acting sketchy.

Some 'master switch' to shut down the whole system.

OP: said it before and saying it again: safety first. No game - no prizes to win. If not 100% sure about protection: steer clear. Take care, really.