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      04-11-2024, 04:47 PM   #1
m2c_oemplus
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Question Track Day | Pogoing | KW v3

Good day,

Mperf suspension kit / KW v3s fitted on my M2C (set pretty stiff from previous owner).

Goodwood track day booked, I have been notified by others that the track is not best suited to an over stiff setup (at risk of ending up backwards and into the armco)

Knowing little to nothing on suspension setups and limited track exposure...
To limit Pogoing, should one take a few clicks off the rebound (soften) only or should compression also follow the same click direction?


Thanks for reading.
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      04-11-2024, 05:53 PM   #2
to_riffic
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Obv for F80/82 setup, but probably not that far off for the F87

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1908654
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      04-13-2024, 04:59 PM   #3
D.Yooras
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Summary of adjustable suspension tuning with adjustable dampers:

Rebound is, for the most part, is tuned based on the spring and weight of the vehicle. Once it's set correctly you generally leave it alone unless you're trying to fine tune for a certain section or bump on the track.

Tuning rebound is important because if you don't have enough rebound damping (the return of the damper is too quick) the suspension can bounce excessively making it difficult to control. Too much rebound damping (too slow) can cause the suspension to "pack down" over successive bumps and eventually stay bottomed out against the bump stop. That will cause the affected corner to become terminal in it's loss of grip.

If you have to pick, not enough rebound damping is far safer than too much, a little bounciness is far better than terminal loss of grip in a corner.


Compression adjustment is more frequently adjusted because it changes based on driving style and road/track conditions. Compression is also tuned around the stiffness of the spring but, for the most part, is more about keeping the wheel on the ground after hitting sharp edges and major influence on low-speed transitions (ie turning from left to right).

I've never run KWs personally but I've done a fair amount of course initial setups. The way I do them is by setting the compression at a low amount (on a 1-10 scale a 2 or 3) so I get more chassis movement than I would with the "correct" amount (assuming 2-3 isn't it). Then I tune the rebound by going through a set course full of different types of bumps (larger higher displacement bumps give you more information than sharp/quick bumps) and analyzing how the car feels on those bumps.

You want the car to travel after hitting the bump (compression travel) and return either at position it started from or slightly above. You generally want that to happen in one smooth motion, down then up (one reversal). What you don't want to multiple reversals where the suspension "bounces" back and forth multiple times, that's an indication you don't have enough rebound damping.

Once the rebound damping is close, start bringing the compression damping up and running over that same test area, except this time add some turns to it. You're looking for a smooth transition when you set the car into a corner. Too little and the car will "dive" in on turn in, too much and initial turn in will feel great, but the car will "wash out" and start to push at the mid-point while you're looking to pick up the apex.

Lastly, you can influence the balance of the car with relatively compression damping front to rear. More front damping (relative to the rear) will make the front end push whereas to much rear damping will cause the oversteer and have a generally unstable feeling in the back. I generally keep compression the same on both axles until I've found the course adjustment that seems to work, then fine tune front/rear deviation as a measure of fine tuning for transition and corner exit.

Lastly, course adjustments can be performed to ways. Sneak up on the adjuster one click at a time or, what I call the scatter plot method. Start with 2of10 then try 8of10 then 5of10. These major changes help establish a big picture faster than moving slow and help establish a "no go" zone of settings that obviously don't work well enough to ever be used with the current setup.

One last piece of advise, V3 are notoriously soft in the spring rate department for proper track use. Make sure you have proper ride heights, and suspension travel, or suspension tuning will not help very much.
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