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      08-30-2017, 02:56 PM   #1
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DIY brake pad change

Hi,

I'm attempting to change my brake pads on all 4 corners with
Pagids rs29.

I already found the F80 pad change film on youtube.

Just curious if there are some things I missed.

I bought a proper torque wrench, a 3 ton jack and jack stands.

My plan:

1. Loosen lug nuts
2. Jack it up. Hand brake on. Remove wheels
3. Hammer out the 2 holding pins. Remove clip.
4. Use a wrench to push the pistons back in
5. Remove oem pads
6. Place pagids in. Pins and clip back on
7. Place wheels back on

Things I'm not sure about.

1. Do I need to apply copper grease or something else?
2. Do I need to remove pad sensors and tie them up?
3. How long does it take to bed them in?
4. Did I miss something


Appreciate the feedback
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      08-30-2017, 04:05 PM   #2
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I swapped PFC pads last week for a trackday and yes on 1-7. I would add #8. Torque wheel nuts. #9 Pump the brake pedal before starting the car. On the second set, I didn't do 1, I pulled the sensors and zip tied them, I completed about 10 stops to bed in the pads before the first session and then the first session completed the job. Brakes were awesome for the 2 days with no fade. This is also at VIR which has 2 high speed braking zones.
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      08-30-2017, 06:40 PM   #3
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Seems pretty straightforward...
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      08-31-2017, 01:06 AM   #4
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Thanks for the feedback.

What is the correct torque for the wheelnuts. My mechanic told me 130Nm.

Where do I ziptie the sensors to safely? And does this give an error message on the idrive?

What are the differences between front and rear, can I expect problems with the parking brake?

Pretty new for me, don't want to take any risks :-)

Last edited by M2 Belgium; 08-31-2017 at 01:17 AM..
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      08-31-2017, 05:06 AM   #5
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And another pressing matter:

Can I connect the pad sensor to the rsl29's?
It seems to fit
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      08-31-2017, 08:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M2 Belgium View Post
Thanks for the feedback.

What is the correct torque for the wheelnuts. My mechanic told me 130Nm.

Where do I ziptie the sensors to safely? And does this give an error message on the idrive?

What are the differences between front and rear, can I expect problems with the parking brake?

Pretty new for me, don't want to take any risks :-)
I torqued the nuts to 90lb-ft whch is 122Nm. I ziptied to the brake lines. No error message. Not sure what you mean on front and rear but if you are talking about the pad size front is larger. If you are at the track don't use the parking brake at all, especially when rotors and pads are very hot, using the parking brake may seize the pad. You can always put the pad sensor into the track pad if you would like but I don't bother since I swap the pads back out when I get home.

I am no expert but I have done this dozens of times with no issue.
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      08-31-2017, 11:18 AM   #7
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Thanks,

Just finished the job. Connected the pad sensors and no issues. Did a bedding in. Everything works fine :-)
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      08-31-2017, 01:58 PM   #8
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Not sure why you'd want to kill the pad sensors with track pads...unless you intend to run the track pads on the street

Seems counter-intuitive
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      08-31-2017, 02:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcgolfdr View Post
I torqued the nuts to 90lb-ft whch is 122Nm
The correct torque spec is 101 lb ft/140Nm.
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      08-31-2017, 02:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR_M2 View Post
The correct torque spec is 101 lb ft/140Nm.
Good to know. Thanks.
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      08-31-2017, 04:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR_M2 View Post
The correct torque spec is 101 lb ft/140Nm.
Wow really? Not that I don't believe you...but do you have any proof? That seems like a lot...did they change it for recent makes?

I though the E46M3 was like 85ft/lbs - I thought Porsche was a lot at 92 ft/lbs
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      08-31-2017, 05:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lax01 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MR_M2 View Post
The correct torque spec is 101 lb ft/140Nm.
Wow really? Not that I don't believe you...but do you have any proof? That seems like a lot...did they change it for recent makes?

I though the E46M3 was like 85ft/lbs - I thought Porsche was a lot at 92 ft/lbs
Proof you say? RTM
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      08-31-2017, 05:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CommitConfirm View Post
Proof you say? RTM
I did...they didn't even include the oil weight to use in the car...they had wheel torque specs? I'll have to re-look
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      08-31-2017, 07:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lax01 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CommitConfirm View Post
Proof you say? RTM
I did...they didn't even include the oil weight to use in the car...they had wheel torque specs? I'll have to re-look
From the manual
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      08-31-2017, 08:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR_M2 View Post
From the manual
Do you mean service manual or owner's manual?
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      08-31-2017, 11:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lax01 View Post
Do you mean service manual or owner's manual?
owner's manual
View post on imgur.com
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      09-01-2017, 12:45 PM   #17
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Why would I kill the pad sensors on track?

Do they need replacing when they are activated when the track pads reach their limit?

I will run them on the street in track season occasionally
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      09-01-2017, 04:17 PM   #18
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The sensors are wear items, when the pad is worn out and needs replacing you have to replace the sensor at the same time. So if you wear out the sensor with your track pads it will need replacing or iDrive will be telling you to replace the stock pads too.

When using track pads you should simply leave the sensor zip tied out of the way and then when you return to street pads then put the sensor back in. When you're at the track you should keep an eye on the pads yourself rather than relying on the sensors.
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      09-02-2017, 01:41 AM   #19
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Ok, thanks for the advice.

I'll leave them on for now as it's my last trackday of the year. Next season I will tie them up!
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      09-02-2017, 12:12 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M2 Belgium View Post
Thanks for the feedback.

What is the correct torque for the wheelnuts. My mechanic told me 130Nm.

Where do I ziptie the sensors to safely? And does this give an error message on the idrive?

What are the differences between front and rear, can I expect problems with the parking brake?

Pretty new for me, don't want to take any risks :-)
Proper lug torque for the F87 M2 is 101 ft/lbs.
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      09-03-2017, 12:57 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR_M2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcgolfdr View Post
I torqued the nuts to 90lb-ft whch is 122Nm
The correct torque spec is 101 lb ft/140Nm.
Yes indeed !
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      09-03-2017, 05:48 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M2 Belgium View Post
Thanks,

Just finished the job. Connected the pad sensors and no issues. Did a bedding in. Everything works fine :-)
Congrats!
Not difficult isn't it ? ;-)
You will enjoy the Pagid pads !

Have you applied copper grease finally?
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