[MdMcoupe]

Ran into an issue this weekend.

Mosely


What socket/size removes the bolt holding the rear shock to the rear shock mount.

See below, how did you guys remove this bolt? I cannot get a socket to fit into the rear shock mount hole. I tried a 17mm 12 point (3/8 drive) too small......i tried a 18mm 12 point (1/2 drive) socket too fat won't event make it to the nut.

I was thinking a 3/8 drive 12 point 18mm deep thin wall? But not 100% sure it's 18mm. Or finding out what size MM it is and grinding down the outside so it will fit????

I see the TIS mentions BMW special tool 2 360 213 but for the life of me I can't find this tool on the internet.













Any advice.....how did you guys remove yours.

Thanks for any help

[M Fifty]

I used a plug spanner from memory. I needed to buy the actual tool from BMW for the fronts though.

[MdMcoupe]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

I used a plug spanner from memory. I needed to buy the actual tool from BMW for the fronts though.

M Fifty,

Thanks for chiming in. I tried to tag you into this thread but for whatever reason I couldn't get your username to work

My 1/2 drive 18mm 12 point deep socket worked for the fronts.

So you used a "spark plug" socket for your rears? Was it 18mm? Did you have to shave it down to fit into the rear shock mount?

Thanks Alot
J

[MdMcoupe]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

I used a plug spanner from memory. I needed to buy the actual tool from BMW for the fronts though.

Something like this?

Do they make a spline/12 point?

[M Fifty]

No (although I have one...), I used one from an old socket set.

That got it moving to the point where I could grip the shock shaft with a shammy leather and wind the nut off with my fingers.

[MdMcoupe]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

No (although I have one...), I used one from an old socket set.

That got it moving to the point where I could grip the shock shaft with a shammy leather and wind the nut off with my fingers.

LOL, yeap we work a like...

thanks Fifty

[Caduceus]

It looks like you have worked this out but you can use a "Tap Spanner" similar to the one at this link:

https://www.ebay.com.au/p/Magnet-Mul...d=323716827606

Yes, it is a 12-point nut and they are hex spanners but if you find the one that is a tight fit and give it a firm knock with a hammer, it will seat tightly on the nut and surprisingly, will hold while you undo it without slipping/stripping. The nut isn't particularly tight. You can fit a smaller socket down the centre to stop the shaft from spinning.

I forget which size but they come as a multi set most of the time anyway.

[Caduceus]

Originally Posted by MdMcoupe

M Fifty,

Thanks for chiming in. I tried to tag you into this thread but for whatever reason I couldn't get your username to work

My 1/2 drive 18mm 12 point deep socket worked for the fronts.

So you used a "spark plug" socket for your rears? Was it 18mm? Did you have to shave it down to fit into the rear shock mount?

Thanks Alot
J

For the front, there's a bit more clearance around the nut. You can use an 18mm swan neck wrench to hold it and still get access to the shaft with a socket to stop it from rotating.

Like this:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Teng-Too...gAAOSwRTVafZtp

[omasou]

For future readers...here are a couple of better pictures of the nut

[MR RIZK]

If the picture of the factory tool is accurate I doubt it would work anyway. The factory tool has the centre lock and a socket that rotates around it. The picture of the actual shock doesn't have the provision for the centre lock.

[MdMcoupe]

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

If the picture of the factory tool is accurate I doubt it would work anyway. The factory tool has the centre lock and a socket that rotates around it. The picture of the actual shock doesn't have the provision for the centre lock.

You are correct about the BMW tool.

I just need the nut off, and the narrow hole in the rear shock mount makes it tough to find a socket to fit through there and reach the nut.

I bought a few craftsmen 18MM 12 point deep sockets, 3/8 drive. I plan to grind one down if it doesn't fit, and then hit it with the impact the break the nut free.

Fronts weren't a problem, the strut mounts up front have plenty of room to get your pass through / sockets in there. Front coilovers are finished.

Thanks for the help and ideas guys.

[MR RIZK]

MdMcoupe in general these type of sockets are the ones u use on struts.

We all know that u shouldn't use an impact but if u need to break it free then hold the piston with a rubber dish glove if you can get a hand in there and give it a zap. I'm assuming your replacement struts don't use the same nut otherwise you are going to be in the same dilemma to tighten them when reusing the same top hats.

You could always invest in some new adjustable top hats as an excuse

[IMG]https://www.steeda.com/thumbnail.asp...&maxy=1000[/IMG]