[sam_m2]

Hi guys got my alignment done, please see sheet.

My car is lowered on H&R springs and has Eibach spacers.

Front camber is off even after alignment, what can i do guys?

Camber plates?

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by sam_m2

Hi guys got my alignment done, please see sheet.

My car is lowered on H&R springs and has Eibach spacers.

Front camber is off even after alignment, what can i do guys?

Camber plates?

Sounds like it’s got some sort of suspension damage I’m surprised the alinement shop didn’t put their finger on it

[AUSf22]

I can't see any attachment of the spec sheet but the front camber is not adjustable without camberplates.

Perhaps try re-attaching so we can see how far out it is?

[sam_m2]

Hi guys not sure what happened with image but please see attached

[qnet]

I just had my car aligned this summer. The shop said that the front camber would be off, and if I wanted to get it just right I needed adjustable camber plates. I was told it had something to do with compensating for the weight of driver. Not a big deal since I don’t track my car hard.

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by qnet

I just had my car aligned this summer. The shop said that the front camber would be off, and if I wanted to get it just right I needed adjustable camber plates. I was told it had something to do with compensating for the weight of driver. Not a big deal since I don’t track my car hard.

Run a half a pound more on the driver side front tire…

[SchnellerM2C]

I wouldn't worry too much about your results.

The specs were certainly off before the alignment was done...
This is not surprising as US roads really bump cars around, parts get tweaked and bushings soften as they wear.

Don't be alarmed by the "RED" colors though, rather look at the numbers.
(BTW, the results are expressed in degrees. Let's convert to decimals for the sake of discussion...there are 60 degrees in a minute, so for example -1 degree 30 min of camber = -1.5 degrees)

On to your specs...

After the toe adjustment, LF camber resulted in -2 degrees.
The spec limit is -1.98 degrees (Oh my god RED - sound the alarm) - but in reality, it's barely outside of the acceptable limit.

The RF has only only -1.48 degrees camber available.
So we have a difference side to side of 1/2 a degree.
In our experience, this isn't uncommon among street cars, is generally acceptable, and shouldn't cause any handling issues.
Over time there might be a slight difference on inner tread wear, but you're not going to prematurely wear your tires.
I'd be more concerned if the difference side to side was in excess of 3/4 of a degree.
However, if it really bothers you, then the only solution is to add adjustable camber plates to the front suspension.

Relative to the rest of the specs, everything looks good - caster is essentially even side to side, front toe is spot on, rear toe also is great with a near 0 degree thrust line and rear camber is also very even side to side.

So, in my opinion, it's time to put your worries aside and enjoy the ride!

[sam_m2]

Hi - this is great thank you.

Im UK based and the roads are not great.

Your advice is good I might just live with it.

I got quoted around £900/$1000 for fitting/fast road set up millway camber plates but if my results are not that bad I think I will just leave as if we think this looks acceptable.

My 2 front tyres are due to be changed as they are pretty low and are being replaced tomorrow so will get them done and just use the car.

[Smiler]

https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/bmw-...-tuning-guide/
I've used these guys Sam totally transformed the car.

[sam_m2]

I’ve been driving the car and handling doesn't seem right, my initial reason for getting the alignment done was because it had recently gone over some particularly bad roads, the steering/handling just does not seem right since getting it done, seems to be pulling to the left kind of

You think there could be a chance the guy who carried out the alignment could have got it better but? The shops not a specialist shop but is pretty good and has a good rep.

[SchnellerM2C]

Having done alignments for many years, I can tell you that there are certainly many factors that come into play that can affect the outcome - regardless of the good or bad readings displayed on the screen. Hence repeatability from one shop to the next might yield different results.

A few sources of error...

Tires - the best alignments are done with fairly new tires that weren't worn in while driving w/ a bad alignment. As the old tires with an oddly worn tread pattern will want to meet the road the same way they that they were previously worn, they may introduce pulling and a feeling of uncertainty - despite the alignment's correct final readings.

Alignment equipment - Calibration of equipment, binding slip plates (that don't allow wheels to easily move while making adjustments) will produce false "beginning" readings & hence false "final" results.

Technician Error - The tech not having properly centered the wheel or properly settled the suspension are also areas that can introduce errors. Not settling the suspension can result in preloaded & bound up rubber bushings that will produce erroneous "beginning" toe & camber readings. Similarly, failing to discover loose or worn bushings or ball joints will also produce a false starting point from which correct adjustments can not be made. All of these will report false "beginning" specs that will then be adjusted to yield compromised "final" specs that the machine (having started with false readings) will report as great readings - However, the shop's road test afterwards should reveal that something isn't right. But some shops don't perform a pre-alignment road test or even a final road test afterwards & just hand the car back to you. How does one know whether we've even started with a problem, what it was, or whether we've solved it?

In my opinion, have another shop evaluate the car and provide you with a set of beginning specs. Due to numerous differences among machines and procedures, their beginning specs won't be the same as your current "final" specs from the previous shop, but they ought to be very close.

If the specs are not close, then you need to rule out tires & worn suspension components. If those items are deemed OK, then have the second alignment performed and see how she feels afterwards.

Additionally ask to go along for a before & after test drive with the tech (who will work on the car) so that you can both be on the same page as to what it is you're trying to solve. The latter request will likely be impossible at a dealership, but could be accommodated by a smaller specialty shop.

Good luck!

[sam_m2]

its going back to the alignment shop tuesday doesnt feel right to me, ive had 4 new tyres fitted since last alignment not sure if that makes a difference