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      09-03-2017, 01:00 PM   #23
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Thanks :-) It was kind of fun actually. Not hard at all. Didn't apply copper grease for the simpel reason I didn't have any and I really wanted the pagids on for spa francorchamps tomorrow. Driven a few miles and yes the schreeching is quite loud but I will change them again for road use
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      09-06-2017, 10:03 AM   #24
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Make sure you open your master cyl before you compress the pistons back into the caliper. I also use a digital caliper and measure my brake pad thickness and write it on the backing plate when taking pads out so I can keep an eye on my usage.

I tie up my sensors and don't put them in track pads.

I use a Lisle to compress the pistons, beats a wrench any day.

Last edited by CosmosMpower; 09-06-2017 at 10:16 AM..
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      09-06-2017, 11:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmosMpower View Post
Make sure you open your master cyl before you compress the pistons back into the caliper.

I use a Lisle to compress the pistons, beats a wrench any day.
How do you open the master cylinder ? Why ? First time I read such instruction...
And what is a lisle ?
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      09-08-2017, 12:04 AM   #26
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When you push back the pistons, the brake fluid has to go back to the reservoir. If there is an air bubble in the top of the reservoir (there normally is), you're fighting against that. It's easier to push back the pistons if you loosen the lid of the fluid reservoir.

Lisle part # 29100 is probably what Cosmos is referring to.
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      09-09-2017, 08:02 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmosMpower View Post
Make sure you open your master cyl before you compress the pistons back into the caliper. I also use a digital caliper and measure my brake pad thickness and write it on the backing plate when taking pads out so I can keep an eye on my usage.

I tie up my sensors and don't put them in track pads.

I use a Lisle to compress the pistons, beats a wrench any day.
You can push the pistons back in with your fingers. Super easy to do. No tools necessary.
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      09-10-2017, 12:34 AM   #28
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Is the reservoir sealed ? I thought that air could pass through the cap for that purpose
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      09-10-2017, 12:35 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by rich8566 View Post
You can push the pistons back in with your fingers. Super easy to do. No tools necessary.
That's also my experience!
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      04-17-2018, 12:47 PM   #30
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Proof you say? RTM
You misspelled RTFM
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      04-22-2018, 06:37 PM   #31
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You guys have any issues swapping back and forth between stock/track pads on the same rotors? Wasn't sure if putting down an extra layer of deposits with the track pads would affect the rotors at all after putting the street pads back on.
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      04-23-2018, 05:57 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by PackPride85 View Post
You guys have any issues swapping back and forth between stock/track pads on the same rotors? Wasn't sure if putting down an extra layer of deposits with the track pads would affect the rotors at all after putting the street pads back on.
Curious as well.

My plan is to let the racepads scrape off the deposits on the way home from the track (when they're cool and abrasive) and swap the stock ones back on and then bed them in. Vice versa on the way to the track.
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      05-24-2018, 04:19 PM   #33
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Today I swapped front pads back to factory because i think the front right pads wouldn't survive their 4th track day. The right pads are more worn than the left ones. See below.
All three tracks i've been on are clockwise direction, so i thought the left ones will get bigger stress but it's the opposite.
Do you think is it suitable to swap left-right pads between occasions? Will it cause any problems? It seems proper way to extend their lifetime.
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      05-26-2018, 01:47 PM   #34
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I ditch my race pads as they get past 60% worn. Can't manage the heat well and it's semi-cheap insurance
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