[jefe2000]

After receiving a couple emails from FCP Euro about priming the oil system, I went searching for more info here on BIMMERPOST. I found some references here and there in tangential threads, but no thread specifically on the topic of priming the oil system in our engines. From what I can tell, this applies to the OG and LCI M2's with the N55 engine. I haven't seen specific references about whether this also applies to the M2 Comp/CS with the S55 engine.

I'm learning that this is a critical procedure for any sort of service/maintenance that interrupts the oiling circuit — which might introduce air pockets into the system. The air pockets can lead to starvation of oil on various bearings and, thus, bearing failure. The service activities that necessitate priming the oil system include removal of the oil filter housing, removing the oil pan, work on the VANOS sprockets/gears, and more. This procedure doesn't seem to be recommended for a plain ol' oil & filter change.

The first message I received from FCP Euro linked to a blog post about the procedure:
https://blog.fcpeuro.com/bmw-si-b11-...system-priming

The second message I received from FCP Euro linked to a YouTube video about the procedure:

They both refer back to a 2016 TSB from BMW about priming the oil system:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...51166-9999.pdf

I note a significant difference between the BMW TSB and the FCP Euro text and video guides above. The BMW TSB indicates to pull the fuse for the low-pressure fuel pump before running the priming procedure. FCP Euro advises the additional step of pulling the spark plugs before running the procedure.

For completeness, here are the BIMMERPOST posts that I could find that reference this procedure:

• https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=28531751
• https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...7&postcount=24
• https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=28539872
• https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=28539872

[F87source]

Yes pull the plugs so no compression builds. This allows the engine to crank easier meaning more rpm and thus more oil flow.

[F87source]

I actually have a significantly better priming method than this - it should be immensely better. But I don't have the parts to make one for everyone to use, so I talked to Malo industries to see if he can make some bespoke parts for this job and we will see what happens.

[jefe2000]

For whenever you’re ready to share details: you have my attention!

[F87source]

Originally Posted by jefe2000

For whenever you’re ready to share details: you have my attention!

I know this idea works because it has been used many times on bmw's before. But I want to make sure this product works and everyone can use it before I say anything else.

If malo industries doesn't get on board then the idea is likely dead for mass use because the amount of things one needs to assemble to get the job done is likely too much.

[designatedposter]

as an alternative to disconnecting all the fuel injectors.. i disconnect the other end of the harness that goes to the DME. it should be the plug closest to the firewall.

[arekuf3x]

Originally Posted by designatedposter

as an alternative to disconnecting all the fuel injectors.. i disconnect the other end of the harness that goes to the DME. it should be the plug closest to the firewall.

That’s why I do, I’ve done many OFHG jobs no issues. Also pour oil in oil filter housing at least 1 bottle.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by arekuf3x

That’s why I do, I’ve done many OFHG jobs no issues. Also pour oil in oil filter housing at least 1 bottle.

That's a waste of oil. Because the oil will just drain right down into the sump via the return hole (the small center hole), only fill the outer holes until those don't fill any more then stop, any extra will just drain back to the sump.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by F87source

I actually have a significantly better priming method than this - it should be immensely better. But I don't have the parts to make one for everyone to use, so I talked to Malo industries to see if he can make some bespoke parts for this job and we will see what happens.

Sold. Put me on that list!

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

Sold. Put me on that list!

I'm not the one selling it lol. That's up to malo industries, I just gave them my idea.

If they don't make one I'll figure out how to diy one and I'll just take photos for you guys of the final assembly.

[arekuf3x]

Originally Posted by F87source

That's a waste of oil. Because the oil will just drain right down into the sump via the return hole (the small center hole), only fill the outer holes until those don't fill any more then stop, any extra will just drain back to the sump.

I change the oil when I do this job, I don’t drain oil through ofhg just add oil. I also do this when changing the oil as well.

[M2guru]

This link helped me find the right fuse and the process was just as expected/described in the FCPEuro video (I didn't remove my spark plugs - seems unnecessary): https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1634660

Here is a couple photos. The fuse with the red plastic removal tool is the one I pulled.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by M2guru

This link helped me find the right fuse and the process was just as expected/described in the FCPEuro video (I didn't remove my spark plugs - seems unnecessary): https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1634660

Here is a couple photos. The fuse with the red plastic removal tool is the one I pulled.

you should pull the spark plugs, if they're still in then the engine is building compression and that makes it harder for the starter motor to crank at a high rate of speed. The result is lower oil pressure, and the oil flow may or may not get into the OFH. I have seen guys on facebook be unsucessful in getting oil into their OFH because they didn't pull the spark plugs. But this also depends on your battery health and your starter motor health of course.

[ZM2]

Does this need to be done when doing a regular oil change, but when replacing the oil cooler at the same time?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Does this need to be done when doing a regular oil change, but when replacing the oil cooler at the same time?

No, only when you disrupt the oil supply. so when replacing the oil cooler.

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by F87source

you should pull the spark plugs, if they're still in then the engine is building compression and that makes it harder for the starter motor to crank at a high rate of speed. The result is lower oil pressure, and the oil flow may or may not get into the OFH. I have seen guys on facebook be unsucessful in getting oil into their OFH because they didn't pull the spark plugs. But this also depends on your battery health and your starter motor health of course.

Do you have any data regarding the RPMs with and without spark plugs using this method? Also, do you have any data regarding the oil pressure with and without plugs using this method? If not, the next time I do it (or feel like it), I can try to get some real information.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by M2guru

Do you have any data regarding the RPMs with and without spark plugs using this method? Also, do you have any data regarding the oil pressure with and without plugs using this method? If not, the next time I do it (or feel like it), I can try to get some real information.

No, just some guys on facebook showing before and afters of the oil filter housing and if oil reaches it, with and without spark plugs. In the cases with spark plugs still installed the oil doesn't always make it up to the oil filter housing, and only makes it when the spark plugs are out.

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by F87source

No, just some guys on facebook showing before and afters of the oil filter housing and if oil reaches it, with and without spark plugs. In the cases with spark plugs still installed the oil doesn't always make it up to the oil filter housing, and only makes it when the spark plugs are out.

I just upgraded to the CSF the oil cooler and switched to the Mossleman oil thermostat this weekend, so I am not likely to need to do those things again any time soon, but may get enough time to do some testing shortly. Would simply removing and reinstalling the oil thermostat be enough for a good test or should I drain a bit of oil out of the cooler (or both)? I plan to use bm3 for datalogging to gather RPM and oil pressure. Not sure where the oil pressure reading comes from to know if it's a good source for pressure to use for this test.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by M2guru

I just upgraded to the CSF the oil cooler and switched to the Mossleman oil thermostat this weekend, so I am not likely to need to do those things again any time soon, but may get enough time to do some testing shortly. Would simply removing and reinstalling the oil thermostat be enough for a good test or should I drain a bit of oil out of the cooler (or both)? I plan to use bm3 for datalogging to gather RPM and oil pressure. Not sure where the oil pressure reading comes from to know if it's a good source for pressure to use for this test.

You'd probably have to drain the oil cooler.

The oil pressure reading comes from the oil pressure sensor on the OFH.

[samsamdar]

When pulling the spark plugs, are you leaving everything open or do you place the ignition coils back in too?

And how many times are we supposed to crank it?

I'm about to do oil cooler, OFHG, and HPFP so I wanna be prepared lol

[F87source]

Originally Posted by samsamdar

When pulling the spark plugs, are you leaving everything open or do you place the ignition coils back in too?

And how many times are we supposed to crank it?

I'm about to do oil cooler, OFHG, and HPFP so I wanna be prepared lol

You should leave it fully open, use compressed air to clean out the spark plug wells extremely carefully before leaving everything fully open. Also clean around that area as well.


Here's the guide: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...25106-9999.pdf

[samsamdar]

Originally Posted by F87source

You should leave it fully open, use compressed air to clean out the spark plug wells extremely carefully before leaving everything fully open. Also clean around that area as well.


Here's the guide: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...25106-9999.pdf

Thank you as always 🙏🏽