[Bimmer28312]

Nothing to say at this point until I have some concrete numbers or bring it into Thier shop

[switlikbob]

Originally Posted by Bimmer28312

Nothing to say at this point until I have some concrete numbers or bring it into Thier shop

I really respect the guys on this particular forum because of responses like yours. Things might not be as entertaining, but the lack of drama and desire to generate usable facts is excellent IMHO. Thank you

[Bimmer28312]

Originally Posted by switlikbob

I really respect the guys on this particular forum because of responses like yours. Things might not be as entertaining, but the lack of drama and desire to generate usable facts is excellent IMHO. Thank you

Yeah I really see no point in giving an opinion based on little to no facts. I didn't get a chance this weekend to hit the dyno but as soon as I do it'll be posted here. The dyno shop didn't have any available slots so I'm thinking of doing a dyno at Dinan but they don't use the traditional dyno machine.

[BruceM]

Originally Posted by Bimmer28312

Yeah I really see no point in giving an opinion based on little to no facts. I didn't get a chance this weekend to hit the dyno but as soon as I do it'll be posted here. The dyno shop didn't have any available slots so I'm thinking of doing a dyno at Dinan but they don't use the traditional dyno machine.

I would think Dinan would be eager to lend you their dyno. It's their system at issue, and I'm sure they'd want an opportunity to make it right, if it isn't right now. What sort of dyno do they have?

[Bimmer28312]

Originally Posted by BruceM

I would think Dinan would be eager to lend you their dyno. It's their system at issue, and I'm sure they'd want an opportunity to make it right, if it isn't right now. What sort of dyno do they have?

You would think but I'm getting the run around from Dinan. All they say is take it back k to the installer shop. This is straight from Dinan headquarters in Morgan Hill smh

[Dinan_Engineering]

Originally Posted by Bimmer28312

You would think but I'm getting the run around from Dinan. All they say is take it back k to the installer shop. This is straight from Dinan headquarters in Morgan Hill smh

If there is a problem ultimately the installing dealer would be responsible for any installation issues hence the request to take it back to the installing dealer. The guys at P-Tech (from my understanding that was the installing dealer) will most certainly accommodate the testing and have been one of the best Dinan shops in the bay area for many many years.

From what I have gathered from warranty they want it back to the shop so that a mechanical boost gauge can be put on the car to test what the readings are and potentially troubleshoot if necessary. Without any error codes being thrown or drivability concerns being present that would be the first step to see if power is being delivered or not since there is no other indication anything is amiss. A dyno would help in this case as well but there are a lot of variables at play that could influence a dyno reading whereas a mechanical boost gauge is definitive and can't be manipulated by outside variables. If it was at a shop already as well the troubleshooting could begin right then and there.

As far as the dyno goes... we do not give access to the dyno to the public I am afraid. The reason is simple... it is constantly being used for various development. We have a rigid development schedule that is scheduled out 2 months in advance (customer and shop development cars alike) so shifting a random car, even for a day, in to that schedule is a monumental task that requires everything else to be moved around. Not a small endeavor by any means.

Regardless, we want you to be enamored with your M2 just as much as we are with ours and will do what we can to figure out where the power may be hiding at, or not.

On a personal note, I'm no tech but if no codes are being thrown my guess would be it may be a small boost leak. Just a guess on my part but given what I have heard that seems the most logical culprit.

[Bimmer28312]

Got it thanks

[njw]

Originally Posted by Bimmer28312

Got it thanks

@Bimmer28312 any updates?

[Bimmer28312]

Originally Posted by njw

@Bimmer28312 any updates?

I'm actually having a hard time getting on the dyno. I'm finally bringing it in on Monday to see if I have any loose ends like a leak etc

[switlikbob]

Originally Posted by Bimmer28312

I'm finally bringing it in on Monday to see if I have any loose ends like a leak etc

Boost leaks can wreak havoc. I'm surprised that more folks aren't installing boost gauges.

[Bimmer28312]

Yeah I honestly don't think it's a boost link. I'm coming to terms that this is just not the major change in power that I thought I would feel/have. But again diagnostic findings and a dyno chart will paint a clear pic for me.
In the end I either stay happy with what I have or rip the dinantronics and go with BM3

[switlikbob]

I'm pretty confident that with BM3 and a proper ECU tune combined with the Dinan P2 hardware you'll be very pleased.

I used Jordan from RKtunes for my e36 turbo, and I was extremely satisfied.

[BruceM]

So...it dried out enough here in Seattle for me to give this thing a serious spin. Temps were about 45 F, track was dry.

To recap briefly, the power mods are the Stage 4 kit without the exhaust, a Fabspeed catted DP and Pure Inlet. Tires are Conti 3s which, as will follow, are not up to the task.

Also, I should say that my two other high hp cars each make about 500 to the wheels. The Jag does it with a supercharged V-8 and a 6th generation Eaton supercharger. The Porsche does it with a big ol' turbo, and a twin-plugged, Motec-managed, stroked and bored, crank-up rebuilt 930 engine. The Jag weighs 3900+ pounds, the Porsche is around 3000. They are completely different in driving characteristics, but I know what torque and hp feel like on hopped up street/track cars.

As I have said in other posts, with the Dinan kit, off-boost performance is basically identical to stock. If anything throttle response is a hair better, maybe because of the DP. But, to cut to the chase, there is NO doubt in my mind that there is a significant power boost to this car. Before the install, I could floor the throttle in second and third gears and get little or no wheelspin on a dry track. Nice acceleration, but no real problem getting the power down. Post install, I am fighting for traction from about 4500 to 5000 rpm on up. Dash is blinking violently as the tires struggle to grip. At this power level, whatever it is, this car is going to need more tire, and a more measured throttle.

This isn't a "maybe I feel more in the midrange" type thing. In fact, the midrange feels good, but the 4500 to 6500 band at full throttle is unmistakably a different animal, at least in my car.

So, as I said, now the focus changes to getting this power down. I look forward to practicing that

[switlikbob]

Thanks for your honest review

[gavinsan]

Originally Posted by BruceM

So...it dried out enough here in Seattle for me to give this thing a serious spin. Temps were about 45 F, track was dry.

To recap briefly, the power mods are the Stage 4 kit without the exhaust, a Fabspeed catted DP and Pure Inlet. Tires are Conti 3s which, as will follow, are not up to the task.

Also, I should say that my two other high hp cars each make about 500 to the wheels. The Jag does it with a supercharged V-8 and a 6th generation Eaton supercharger. The Porsche does it with a big ol' turbo, and a twin-plugged, Motec-managed, stroked and bored, crank-up rebuilt 930 engine. The Jag weighs 3900+ pounds, the Porsche is around 3000. They are completely different in driving characteristics, but I know what torque and hp feel like on hopped up street/track cars.

As I have said in other posts, with the Dinan kit, off-boost performance is basically identical to stock. If anything throttle response is a hair better, maybe because of the DP. But, to cut to the chase, there is NO doubt in my mind that there is a significant power boost to this car. Before the install, I could floor the throttle in second and third gears and get little or no wheelspin on a dry track. Nice acceleration, but no real problem getting the power down. Post install, I am fighting for traction from about 4500 to 5000 rpm on up. Dash is blinking violently as the tires struggle to grip. At this power level, whatever it is, this car is going to need more tire, and a more measured throttle.

This isn't a "maybe I feel more in the midrange" type thing. In fact, the midrange feels good, but the 4500 to 6500 band at full throttle is unmistakably a different animal, at least in my car.

So, as I said, now the focus changes to getting this power down. I look forward to practicing that

As i suspected as you take the power up to M4 territory you get the same issues with traction ( that spoil the balance of the M4 ) and detract from the appeal of the M2 as the best balanced M car in the range

[BruceM]

Originally Posted by gavinsan

As i suspected as you take the power up to M4 territory you get the same issues with traction ( that spoil the balance of the M4 ) and detract from the appeal of the M2 as the best balanced M car in the range

Congratulations on your clairvoyance. But the M2 is still a better balanced car than the M4. Traction is not the only problem with the M4's balance. I am confident that a few track days and some decent tires will teach how to modulate the throttle and maximize power to the ground at 10/10ths. Plus, these cars are rarely driven at 10/10ths. Anything below that and even boosted M2s will still be more fun and easy cars to handle.

[No Boost]

It wouldn't surprise me if a 500 hp M2 is more balanced and predictable than a stock M4.

[Bimmer28312]

Originally Posted by BruceM

So...it dried out enough here in Seattle for me to give this thing a serious spin. Temps were about 45 F, track was dry.

To recap briefly, the power mods are the Stage 4 kit without the exhaust, a Fabspeed catted DP and Pure Inlet. Tires are Conti 3s which, as will follow, are not up to the task.

Also, I should say that my two other high hp cars each make about 500 to the wheels. The Jag does it with a supercharged V-8 and a 6th generation Eaton supercharger. The Porsche does it with a big ol' turbo, and a twin-plugged, Motec-managed, stroked and bored, crank-up rebuilt 930 engine. The Jag weighs 3900+ pounds, the Porsche is around 3000. They are completely different in driving characteristics, but I know what torque and hp feel like on hopped up street/track cars.

As I have said in other posts, with the Dinan kit, off-boost performance is basically identical to stock. If anything throttle response is a hair better, maybe because of the DP. But, to cut to the chase, there is NO doubt in my mind that there is a significant power boost to this car. Before the install, I could floor the throttle in second and third gears and get little or no wheelspin on a dry track. Nice acceleration, but no real problem getting the power down. Post install, I am fighting for traction from about 4500 to 5000 rpm on up. Dash is blinking violently as the tires struggle to grip. At this power level, whatever it is, this car is going to need more tire, and a more measured throttle.

This isn't a "maybe I feel more in the midrange" type thing. In fact, the midrange feels good, but the 4500 to 6500 band at full throttle is unmistakably a different animal, at least in my car.

So, as I said, now the focus changes to getting this power down. I look forward to practicing that

Well this gives me hope that my M2 needs to be looked at and dialed in. For me personally I can feel the extra punchiness I. The upper rpms but like I expressed before it's not night and day with traction only becoming a major issue in 1st and 2nd. I'm really looking forward to Monday now. I'll keep everyone posted on my findings.

[BruceM]

Originally Posted by Bimmer28312

Well this gives me hope that my M2 needs to be looked at and dialed in. For me personally I can feel the extra punchiness I. The upper rpms but like I expressed before it's not night and day with traction only becoming a major issue in 1st and 2nd. I'm really looking forward to Monday now. I'll keep everyone posted on my findings.

Give it a shot. My traction light was blinking off an on all the way up through 3rd. Was not in a place I could try it with the same intensity in 4th, but my guess is that it will calm down a bit.

I do think this car now needs more and stickier rubber, though. That will help.

But even with traction challenges, this will be a hoot at the track. That's because "balance" isn't mostly, or even primarily, about whether you can keep traction all the time. It's more about what happens when you lose it. What does the car do? Does the back end wash out progressively? Can you get it back in line easily by lifting and/or counter-steering, etc.? Or does it want to swap ends with snap oversteer, for example? My 930 has 315s in the rear, and is sticky as hell in the corners, but when it finally loses traction--because of lifting too soon or just too much speed (or, usually, both)--it really loses it. It is very difficult to countersteer out of a spin at speed when that happens. By all accounts, the M2 won't do that at the track. So far, when I have gotten the back end a little loose on roads it tucks right back in on command--way less drama. I bet the same holds true at the track.

[switlikbob]

BruceM Have you tried driving with the traction control off completely? If so, how is it?

My car is is stock right now, except for a K&N filter, and with traction control off, I can get some wheel spin shifting into 3rd gear. I'm running Michelin PS All Season 3 tires and it's in the 30's now.

[BruceM]

Originally Posted by switlikbob

BruceM Have you tried driving with the traction control off completely? If so, how is it?

My car is is stock right now, except for a K&N filter, and with traction control off, I can get some wheel spin shifting into 3rd gear. I'm running Michelin PS All Season 3 tires and it's in the 30's now.

No sir. That's for the track for me. To truly take advantage of that setting, I would have to drive too irresponsibly for public roads. Which I very much look forward to doing in another setting

As I said above, I was getting wheel spin off and on all the way through 2nd and 3rd with traction control on. I also look forward to comparing performance with it off, for sure. Seems to me that all else being equal, wheel spin would increase when the ecu isn't sensing spin and cutting power...

[No Boost]

Originally Posted by BruceM

No sir. That's for the track for me. To truly take advantage of that setting, I would have to drive too irresponsibly for public roads. Which I very much look forward to doing in another setting

As I said above, I was getting wheel spin off and on all the way through 2nd and 3rd with traction control on. I also look forward to comparing performance with it off, for sure. Seems to me that all else being equal, wheel spin would increase when the ecu isn't sensing spin and cutting power...

I think a 50 (near top of 2nd gear) to 100 run would be a nice indicator of pulling power if you can find a safe stretch. Love to hear your impressions on that.

Edit: you're getting wheel spin through 3rd, never mind