08-18-2016, 04:19 PM | #1 |
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Installed the BMW M Performance brake and throttle pedals / covers
Today Manhart Performance installed the M Performance brake and throttle pedals / covers. The aluminum pedals /covers are available as a set for manual and automatic cars, but the automatic kit does not fit on the BMW M2. The brake pedal / cover which is in the kit is too big!
So instead you buy the kit for the manual gearbox and do not use the pedal / cover for the clutch, since of course there is no clutch. The installation is not that hard. You need to drill three holes in the brake pedal to attach the cover on that pedal. There is a rubber patch followed by an aluminum cover over the rubber patch. No difficulties there. The throttle pedal is glued to the existing pedal and two screws hold it in place even further. Total time required, maximum 20 minutes nothing more. Final result can be seen on the photo. It took a while to find the correct part number and the correct set up, but in the end it was all installed easily and it looks wonderful. Much better than stock, and it feels complete now. MR |
08-18-2016, 04:45 PM | #2 |
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Agree that it looks nice but I do not understand why you would want slippery-when-wet pedals. Am I missing something?
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08-18-2016, 07:43 PM | #3 | |
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08-18-2016, 08:39 PM | #4 | |
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08-19-2016, 10:40 AM | #6 | |
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08-30-2016, 04:21 PM | #8 |
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12-19-2016, 09:10 AM | #9 | |
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Drilling is not my forte tbh... |
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12-19-2016, 11:05 AM | #11 |
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12-21-2016, 03:33 PM | #12 |
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The fact that the black areas are raised rubber does give good "traction" for the foot when it's on the pedal. My RX-8 had the stock "fake" drilled aluminum pedals, but I think the ridges on these pedals feel like they give better traction than the raised rubber bumps the RX-8 pedals had. These certainly provide better traction than the stock pedals my 135 had.
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12-23-2016, 04:41 PM | #14 |
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01-08-2017, 06:01 PM | #17 | |
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1. Remove OEM rubber covers 2. Put on SS pedal rubber covers. 3. Drill pilot holes into the pedals (brake pedal probably needs a nice Ti drill bit since it's steel). Take rubber cap off again. 4. Brake/clutch: Start with 1/8 and finish at 5/32 drill bit...you can add another intermediate size in between if you like. 5. File the backs of the holes to smooth things out. 6. Put on the rubber cover, then steel one, then tighten it with the provided torx hardware. 7. Go pedal: clean it up to prep for the 3M adhesive backing on the steel pedal. 8. Stick it on and drill 3/32 holes in the plastic. 9. Tighten the gas pedal bolts in (no nuts for this one). Don't over tighten this since it's plastic. 10. Vacuum and clean up. |
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01-08-2017, 10:27 PM | #18 | |
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http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=833321 Hope it helps! |
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01-09-2017, 08:21 AM | #19 | |
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What I found most interesting, though, is that my brake pedal wasn't at all like all the ones I've seen pictured. They all appear to be thick, flat, hardened steel, which everyone says is fairly hard to drill through. Mine was a relatively thin steel, but it was ridged, almost corrugated, for strength. It was actually easy to drill through, and it just happened that all of the bolt holes were in the "valleys", which made it easy to get the nuts attached on the back. Not sure it would have been possible if they'd been in the "ridges". I wish I'd taken a picture when I had the cover off, since it's a pretty interesting difference. Just something to keep in mind. |
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01-12-2017, 10:00 PM | #20 |
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Anyone have straight on pictures from the seat bottom of a 6mt set installed? I installed mine and they seem to be a bit crooked? Can't see how that's possible since the rubber mold goes on snug and doesn't seem to have much ability to twist.....
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01-12-2017, 10:28 PM | #21 |
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01-13-2017, 08:14 AM | #22 |
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I thought the same thing, but looking at it further I think it's just a trick of how the curved lines of the grooves draw your eye. I think you're right in that it would be pretty hard to actually install them crooked. Don't have a pic on me now but will try to remember to take one when I get back to my car.
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