[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Telluride

Smart by them... tough for us. Their bracket is gold.

Exactly.

Originally Posted by Telluride

Appreciate your posting larger pics of wheels/rotors. Exactly what I was searching for... trying to get a better view of them.

I'll be posting a lot more very soon.

[Vojta89]

Originally Posted by Telluride

Smart by them... tough for us. Their bracket is gold.

Appreciate your posting larger pics of wheels/rotors. Exactly what I was searching for... trying to get a better view of them.

I have them and dont need the because I went for AP racing, can measure what you want or can sell the set with broken rotors (buyer have to buy new set of rotors)

[Vojta89]

Here is extreme situation what can happen, my friend probably catched metal piece (like a nut or bolt or so), it happened on track + loud exhaust -> crash to the barrier

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Vojta89

I have them and dont need the because I went for AP racing, can measure what you want or can sell the set with broken rotors (buyer have to buy new set of rotors)

Oh damn! I'd love to have the brackets!!!! If not, maybe you could do precise measurements so we could make more? But if you sell the, I want them!!!

[///MPhatic]

This post is just for future reference.

Vojta89 was kind enough to send me some pictures of the Racing Brake rotor, and it's clear that the stock 380/30 rotor could be made to work, but it'd take custom brackets, custom brake pad shims, and machining down the pad material of the 2NH pad.

[Vojta89]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

This post is just for future reference.

Vojta89 was kind enough to send me some pictures of the Racing Brake rotor, and it's clear that the stock 380/30 rotor could be made to work, but it'd take custom brackets, custom brake pad shims, and machining down the pad material of the 2NH pad.

If anyone want to buy my set (it needs new rotors for about 1k USD) it's for sale… 900 EUR + shipping or 960 USD + shipping

https://racingbrake.com/d602-03/

[speedsnice]

Originally Posted by Telluride

Speedsnice - did you end up doing rear rotors too? I too am ocd... and now wondering what it would cost for your solution? Do you happen to have links to the f/r rotors and brackets you purchased?

I cannot find the setup you have on Racing Brake's website. Trying to find the right pieces for a cost estimate. Thank you!

Yes I purchased the rear set as well, my OCD would not allow me to run only the fronts.

Here is a link to the kit

https://racingbrake.com/bmw-irp-04/

[Vojta89]

Originally Posted by Vojta89

If anyone want to buy my set (it needs new rotors for about 1k USD) it's for sale… 900 EUR + shipping or 960 USD + shipping

https://racingbrake.com/d602-03/

Just found out that price of front set went much lower than I bought it in 2019…. So asking 500 EUR or 530 USD for front center bells and adaptors… DM me if anyone interested

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Vojta89

Just found out that price of front set went much lower than I bought it in 2019…. So asking 500 EUR or 530 USD for front center bells and adaptors… DM me if anyone interested

If I could use those adapters with the OEM 380mm blue-brake rotors I'd buy them at $500 USD and just machine off the extra pad overhang the 2NH pad would have. However, I'm not sure about the offset. I know 6mm worth of shims would be required, just not sure if it'd be 6/0, 5/1, 4/2 or 3/3. Just not sure it'd work because I'm not a brake expert.

[Vojta89]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

If I could use those adapters with the OEM 380mm blue-brake rotors I'd buy them at $500 USD and just machine off the extra pad overhang the 2NH pad would have. However, I'm not sure about the offset. I know 6mm worth of shims would be required, just not sure if it'd be 6/0, 5/1, 4/2 or 3/3. Just not sure it'd work because I'm not a brake expert.

I have no clue if it will work or not.

If you have 380x30 rotors you can measure their offset and I can measure offset of the RB rotors…

BUT my opinion on this solution:
When you put 2NH calipers, that were designed for 36mm rotors, on 30mm rotors and just put there "spacers" under your pads, you will drive down the pads and they can fall off even when there is still enough pad material…

You will drive down the pads to minimum thickness, your pistons won't fall off but your pad back plate will be out of caliper body and only the spacers will be in the caliper body.

So when pad material leaves, pads will be fixed in place only by the guide pins and that is not designed for holding pads in rotation direction but only in perpendicular direction to rotation direction.

Plates in red squares hold the pad in place in rotation direction, green double side arrow is maximum rotor thickness plus some reserve, lets say 1-1,5mm to each side. And yellow line is where guide pins are and they should hold the pad only in perpendicular direction to rotation direction.

Hope you understand what I mean, my english is not perfect.

My conclusion - do not do it!

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Vojta89

I have no clue if it will work or not.

If you have 380x30 rotors you can measure their offset and I can measure offset of the RB rotors…

BUT my opinion on this solution:
When you put 2NH calipers, that were designed for 36mm rotors, on 30mm rotors and just put there "spacers" under your pads, you will drive down the pads and they can fall off even when there is still enough pad material…

You will drive down the pads to minimum thickness, your pistons won't fall off but your pad back plate will be out of caliper body and only the spacers will be in the caliper body.

So when pad material leaves, pads will be fixed in place only by the guide pins and that is not designed for holding pads in rotation direction but only in perpendicular direction to rotation direction.

Plates in red squares hold the pad in place in rotation direction, green double side arrow is maximum rotor thickness plus some reserve, lets say 1-1,5mm to each side. And yellow line is where guide pins are and they should hold the pad only in perpendicular direction to rotation direction.

Hope you understand what I mean, my english is not perfect.

My conclusion - do not do it!

Thanks for that!

Your English is great, I just don't quite understand, but I'll certainly have a closer look!

[Vojta89]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

Thanks for that!

Your English is great, I just don't quite understand, but I'll certainly have a closer look!

Hope this will be more illustrative
First picture - with new pads and 30mm rotors
Second picture - with used pads and 30mm rotors
Last picture - situation with used pads and 36mm rotors

White - edge od caliper body that actually holds brake pad in place in rotation direction
Red - brake pad spacer you would fit
Green - brake pad back plate
Yellow - brake pad material
Blue - 30mm rotor (minimum thickness about 28,4mm)
Violet - 36mm rotor (minimum thickness about 34,4 mm)

Sorry for quality of my drawing, just did it fast on my phone.

And thanks for appreciation of my english

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Vojta89

Hope this will be more illustrative
First picture - with new pads and 30mm rotors
Second picture - with used pads and 30mm rotors
Last picture - situation with used pads and 36mm rotors

White - edge od caliper body that actually holds brake pad in place in rotation direction
Red - brake pad spacer you would fit
Green - brake pad back plate
Yellow - brake pad material
Blue - 30mm rotor (minimum thickness about 28,4mm)
Violet - 36mm rotor (minimum thickness about 34,4 mm)

Sorry for quality of my drawing, just did it fast on my phone.

And thanks for appreciation of my english

You did that on your phone??? Wow!

I think I see what you're saying now. The spacer wouldn't really help because the pad itself, as it got worn, would move forward enough to not be held in properly.

I guess it'd have to be longer pistons then, or just replace pads more frequently. Since I don't race my car I'm thinking my pads will last forever.

[Vojta89]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

You did that on your phone??? Wow!

I think I see what you're saying now. The spacer wouldn't really help because the pad itself, as it got worn, would move forward enough to not be held in properly.

I guess it'd have to be longer pistons then, or just replace pads more frequently. Since I don't race my car I'm thinking my pads will last forever.

Longer pistons will only solve same thing like pad spacers, that pistons won't fall off, but the back plate of pads will be still the same, so in some moment of pad wear it can go away….

Only chance is to change pads often and chech them often. Plus remember that outter and inner pads can wear different!

Using 380x30 mm rotors with 2NH calipers is for sure very unconvinient solution

Still dont see the point why you dont want to use RB rotors and want to drive on that thin 30mm OEM rotors… OEM 380x30 are about 800-900 USD for a set or am I wrong?

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Vojta89

Longer pistons will only solve same thing like pad spacers, that pistons won't fall off, but the back plate of pads will be still the same, so in some moment of pad wear it can go away….

Only chance is to change pads often and chech them often. Plus remember that outter and inner pads can wear different!

I understand. The pads I chose are very long-wearing (CarboTech 1521), as I never race my car (I have another car for that).

Originally Posted by Vojta89

Using 380x30 mm rotors with 2NH calipers is for sure very unconvinient solution

It's looking that way, unfortunately.

Originally Posted by Vojta89

Still dont see the point why you dont want to use RB rotors and want to drive on that thin 30mm OEM rotors… OEM 380x30 are about 800-900 USD for a set or am I wrong?

OEM 380 rotors are $522 shipped, and they match the rears. Just as your modifications are done with racing in mind, mine are done with aesthetics in mind.

[Vojta89]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

I understand. The pads I chose are very long-wearing (CarboTech 1521), as I never race my car (I have another car for that).

It's looking that way, unfortunately.

OEM 380 rotors are $522 shipped, and they match the rears. Just as your modifications are done with racing in mind, mine are done with aesthetics in mind.

Yeah, for me it's always function before estetics

[Telluride]

Definitely not a fan of this videographer... but he installed and experienced bbk wheel gouge on his RI-D's. Attaching instagram link and youtube video. Watch youtube video at 33:50 mark.

I think what he's calling the "center of the hub" is really what we would call the barrel of the wheel. However who knows... he says it's not rocks but actually "deflection of the wheel" causing it to come in contact with the caliper. At least... my best guess at deciphering what he's saying. I didn't see him respond on instagram.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Telluride

Definitely not a fan of this videographer... but he installed and experienced bbk wheel gouge on his RI-D's. He says it's not rocks but actually "deflection of the wheel" causing it to come in contact with the caliper.

He's wrong. This guy talks out of his ass constantly. I don't think it's malicious, he just doesn't know any better, and in the absence of that knowledge he's making stuff up.

It's an old and common problem with all BBK's, and many have had the issue at super slow speeds, stopped, backed up and pulled the rock out.

Also, if it were deflection you'd have the same parts of the calipers getting damaged over and over, but that's not what we see. It's all over the place, from front to side to rear, to deep, to shallow, to happening at a crawl, to happening at speed.

[Telluride]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

He's wrong. This guy talks out of his ass constantly. I don't think it's malicious, he just doesn't know any better, and in the absence of that knowledge he's making stuff up.

Ha! Right?! I was trying to take the high road. Only watched two of his videos... I couldn't take anymore. Constant babbling about what he thinks or what he knows.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Telluride

Ha! Right?! I was trying to take the high road. Only watched two of his videos... I couldn't take anymore. Constant babbling about what he thinks or what he knows.

Same. I hate to speak bad of people, but he's really pretty clueless on a lot of stuff. He was recently trying to sell his used CS brakes for $5000 when they are $4500 new from the dealer. Seems like a nice guy though.

[MooMooM2]

he is alright, a bit of a know it all. he does sell some good products though