Wheel stud conversion

snipersix · 11-23-2017, 08:20 AM

I am doing a wheel stud conversion for my car mainly for me to be able to install 15mm spacers infront and for me to have an easier time changing rims.

So i have to ways of achieving this:
1. Is to do a wheel stud conversion, meaning installing long studs to the hub , puting on the 15mm spacer and using lug nuts to hold the rims.

Or

2. Get a set of h&r 15mm hub adapters that are bolted to the hub and then installing the extended studs on the adapter where in I would mount the rims on and lock them in with lug knuts.

The question is which is the better way to go in terms of safety. Cause i have quite a number of shops refusing to do method 1 because of safety issues

snipersix · 11-23-2017, 05:41 PM

Anyone?

gsrbri · 11-24-2017, 11:22 AM

#1 - racing wheel studs remove the compromise that the factory makes for production, cost, and serviceability reasons. Racing studs are stronger, provide a better inherent torque/load configuration, and make tire changes much easier. I believe that normal retail tire places don't want to work on cars equipped with racing studs, just for liability reasons. They need to be installed correctly By someone that understands how to properly install them and seat the studs

snipersix · 11-26-2017, 08:17 AM

I guess I will need to find someone who knows how to do it. Thanks for the input.

ags28 · 02-19-2018, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsrbri

#1 - racing wheel studs remove the compromise that the factory makes for production, cost, and serviceability reasons. Racing studs are stronger, provide a better inherent torque/load configuration, and make tire changes much easier. I believe that normal retail tire places don't want to work on cars equipped with racing studs, just for liability reasons. They need to be installed correctly By someone that understands how to properly install them and seat the studs

What's the secret (if any) to this? Don't you have to back the studs all the way in, tighten them (torque wrench?) and Loctite them? I was going to do this myself, but if there is some secret that I am missing, please let me know. I don't want a wheel coming off at speed!

Thanks

gsrbri · 02-19-2018, 10:00 PM

What sort of Studs did you buy? Some have a flat in the center that you can get a wrench on. Usually it's around 25 foot pounds to seat them properly with Loctite. In my case, it was just a round stud, so you had to double nut the stud until you feel it seat...And it felt right around 25 to 30 pounds by my wrist calibration. The most important part is to feel them seat and almost bottom out without overtorquing. If you haven't done it before, you may just want to get some help.

ags28 · 02-20-2018, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsrbri

What sort of Studs did you buy? Some have a flat in the center that you can get a wrench on. Usually it's around 25 foot pounds to seat them properly with Loctite. In my case, it was just a round stud, so you had to double nut the stud until you feel it seat...And it felt right around 25 to 30 pounds by my wrist calibration. The most important part is to feel them seat and almost bottom out without overtorquing. If you haven't done it before, you may just want to get some help.

Thanks for the tip. Haven't bought 'em yet. Am looking at the ones with the allen fitting in the end. Watched a few installation tutorials, and I think I'm up to the task. Anyone know a particular brand that is of good quality?

Gimmethecash · 02-20-2018, 01:24 PM

I used Macht Schnell on my last BMW, and I was happy with them. This time I've ordered an MRG titanium kit.

David@ActiveAutowerke · 02-21-2018, 01:17 PM

We use Motorsport Hardware conversion studs on our M2. One end of the stud has the M14x1.25 thread that threads in to the OEM hub, and the wheel side has M14x1.5 threads to prevent stripping when removing wheels over and over again. The studs also have allen fittings in the end to install them. We've used them on track with 15mm spacers without no problems!

https://store.activeautowerke.com/co...-nose-stud-kit

atlas · 10-31-2018, 04:39 PM

I'm think about doing this too. Is it easy enough to remove studs and go back to OEM later?

LeeInCT · 11-11-2018, 02:30 PM

Hey everyone, revisiting an old topic..I am going to use the apex racing stud conversion kit. the torque recommendation for the torque for the M2 nut bolt of BMW factory vs the nut for apex kit is different. 105 ft pound vs 85-90 ft pound to be exact. Any suggestions for this? Thanks!

11-23-2017, 08:20 AM	#1
snipersix Brigadier General 228 Rep 3,807 Posts Drives: Retired 2017 F87 M2 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Burnaby iTrader: (3) Garage List 2017 BMW M2 [0.00]	Wheel stud conversion I am doing a wheel stud conversion for my car mainly for me to be able to install 15mm spacers infront and for me to have an easier time changing rims. So i have to ways of achieving this: 1. Is to do a wheel stud conversion, meaning installing long studs to the hub , puting on the 15mm spacer and using lug nuts to hold the rims. Or 2. Get a set of h&r 15mm hub adapters that are bolted to the hub and then installing the extended studs on the adapter where in I would mount the rims on and lock them in with lug knuts. The question is which is the better way to go in terms of safety. Cause i have quite a number of shops refusing to do method 1 because of safety issues __________________ 2017 M2 Coupe:\|Black Sapphire Metallic\|DCT\|Nav/Idrive\|M Performance CF Spoiler\|M Performance CF DCT Interior\| M Performance Gloss Black Kidney Grills\| M Performance Steel Pedals \| Eventuri CF CAI \| 19" Brixton Rims \| KW V3 Clubsport \| Retired: \|2008 328i Sedan\|Montego Blue\|
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11-23-2017, 05:41 PM	#2
snipersix Brigadier General 228 Rep 3,807 Posts Drives: Retired 2017 F87 M2 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Burnaby iTrader: (3) Garage List 2017 BMW M2 [0.00]	Anyone? __________________ 2017 M2 Coupe:\|Black Sapphire Metallic\|DCT\|Nav/Idrive\|M Performance CF Spoiler\|M Performance CF DCT Interior\| M Performance Gloss Black Kidney Grills\| M Performance Steel Pedals \| Eventuri CF CAI \| 19" Brixton Rims \| KW V3 Clubsport \| Retired: \|2008 328i Sedan\|Montego Blue\|
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11-24-2017, 11:22 AM	#3
gsrbri Lieutenant 560 Rep 570 Posts Drives: F87 6MT Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Boston, MA iTrader: (0)	#1 - racing wheel studs remove the compromise that the factory makes for production, cost, and serviceability reasons. Racing studs are stronger, provide a better inherent torque/load configuration, and make tire changes much easier. I believe that normal retail tire places don't want to work on cars equipped with racing studs, just for liability reasons. They need to be installed correctly By someone that understands how to properly install them and seat the studs
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11-26-2017, 08:17 AM	#4
snipersix Brigadier General 228 Rep 3,807 Posts Drives: Retired 2017 F87 M2 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Burnaby iTrader: (3) Garage List 2017 BMW M2 [0.00]	I guess I will need to find someone who knows how to do it. Thanks for the input. __________________ 2017 M2 Coupe:\|Black Sapphire Metallic\|DCT\|Nav/Idrive\|M Performance CF Spoiler\|M Performance CF DCT Interior\| M Performance Gloss Black Kidney Grills\| M Performance Steel Pedals \| Eventuri CF CAI \| 19" Brixton Rims \| KW V3 Clubsport \| Retired: \|2008 328i Sedan\|Montego Blue\|
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02-19-2018, 10:00 PM	#6
gsrbri Lieutenant 560 Rep 570 Posts Drives: F87 6MT Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Boston, MA iTrader: (0)	What sort of Studs did you buy? Some have a flat in the center that you can get a wrench on. Usually it's around 25 foot pounds to seat them properly with Loctite. In my case, it was just a round stud, so you had to double nut the stud until you feel it seat...And it felt right around 25 to 30 pounds by my wrist calibration. The most important part is to feel them seat and almost bottom out without overtorquing. If you haven't done it before, you may just want to get some help.
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02-20-2018, 01:24 PM	#8
Gimmethecash Lieutenant 150 Rep 485 Posts Drives: F90 M5 Comp Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Pasadena iTrader: (1)	I used Macht Schnell on my last BMW, and I was happy with them. This time I've ordered an MRG titanium kit.
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02-21-2018, 01:17 PM	#9
David@ActiveAutowerke BimmerPost Supporting Vendor 813 Rep 526 Posts Drives: M2 Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Miami, FL iTrader: (0)	We use Motorsport Hardware conversion studs on our M2. One end of the stud has the M14x1.25 thread that threads in to the OEM hub, and the wheel side has M14x1.5 threads to prevent stripping when removing wheels over and over again. The studs also have allen fittings in the end to install them. We've used them on track with 15mm spacers without no problems! https://store.activeautowerke.com/co...-nose-stud-kit
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10-31-2018, 04:39 PM	#10
atlas Lieutenant 383 Rep 583 Posts Drives: F10 535i, M2 LCI, G05 X5 40i Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Melbourne, Australia iTrader: (0)	I'm think about doing this too. Is it easy enough to remove studs and go back to OEM later?
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11-11-2018, 02:30 PM	#11
LeeInCT Private First Class 85 Rep 168 Posts Drives: F87 m2, iX D50 Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: CT iTrader: (0)	Hey everyone, revisiting an old topic..I am going to use the apex racing stud conversion kit. the torque recommendation for the torque for the M2 nut bolt of BMW factory vs the nut for apex kit is different. 105 ft pound vs 85-90 ft pound to be exact. Any suggestions for this? Thanks!
	Appreciate 0 Quote