04-11-2018, 05:43 PM | #1 |
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Autocross Cone Marks
During the last event I decided to have co-pilot for my M2. My friend managed to hit a couple cones with the M2's broad hips and, to my surprise, the factory paint protection patch doesn't like it when it is being hit by a cone. If you look closely you can see smudge marks on the film that can't be rubbed out.
Has anybody here had a similar problem and know how to remove it? When I hit cones it is usually with my front fenders and they don't leave any permanent marks. I know I could just replace the patch, but then I'd run the risk of rock chips. If anybody knows of a more durable product, then please let me know. It's not super obvious on my BSM paint, so if I can't find an improved product I will just leave it as is. |
04-11-2018, 08:50 PM | #3 |
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I have used Novus plastic polish on a lower area of my front bumper after something left a black scuff on the Suntek Ultra PPF and it came out looking perfect. Novus is a 3-step system so I stayed away from the most aggressive Level 3 polish as that is more for scratches. Used a little of the Level 2 and then the Level 1 Cleaner/Protection layer to finish up. I figure the OEM rear quarter protectors would clean up nicely using this.
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04-12-2018, 03:07 PM | #4 | ||
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04-16-2018, 05:38 PM | #5 |
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It works great on the paint but practically useless on the rear fender protection. It's only marginally more effective on the other PPF I have. I'm still searching for something that will remove cone-marks from PPF.
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04-16-2018, 05:40 PM | #6 |
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When you get around to the Novus, let us know if it works. (I found the Monther's to be ineffective)
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04-17-2018, 09:11 PM | #7 | |
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04-17-2018, 09:44 PM | #8 |
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Collinite 850 Pre-Wax cleaner works really well on tire marks, presuming it would also work well on cone marks. They come off with no elbow grease requirement, just a little water, collinite and a light touch.
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04-17-2018, 09:47 PM | #9 |
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Agreed Mother's R3 for cleaning anything. But for rub marks on PPF you should try xpel's product. Can't remember the name but easy to find online
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04-17-2018, 11:57 PM | #10 |
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The BMW film is pretty thin, and the area it covers is too small. I replaced mine with a larger piece of Xpel.
The XPEL maintenance products are Paint Protection Film Cleaner (removes the gunk) and Film Sealant (protects the film and makes the area slipperier and easier to clean the next time). Works great on Xpel PPF and, Xpel says, on other polyurethane films. You can get them from a local Xpel installer or http://www.xpel.com/aftercare-products-tools/. Xpel also says you can use some pretty aggressive chemicals like acetone or lacquer thinner: http://www.xpel.com/faqs. Just don’t use anything with even a mild abrasive, or you could permanently cloud the film. |
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04-21-2018, 11:08 PM | #11 | |
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04-23-2018, 11:07 PM | #12 | |
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05-16-2018, 12:50 PM | #13 |
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You guys were absolutely correct about the mother's product. It didn't do much to anything. I've decided that the best course of action will be what most of you guys suggested, which is to replace the small patch with a better product and buy the appropriate care products along with it.
Thanks again for your comments! |
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07-14-2018, 05:51 AM | #14 |
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I've been using this and it works great on the film, as well as other areas. https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...ks&from=fn
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07-14-2018, 09:49 AM | #16 | |
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07-14-2018, 11:37 AM | #17 |
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07-14-2018, 04:40 PM | #18 |
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I’ve found that to be true with Griot’s Bug & Smudge remover, which is my go-to product for cone marks. Great on paint; on the rear fender protection, not so much.
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07-14-2018, 09:05 PM | #19 |
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Even though I tested the Novus plastic polish I haven't used it on my Suntek Ultra. I have had some really heavy cone marks and clay bar takes it right out, sucks that the XPEL seems to be harder to restore.
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07-16-2018, 07:23 PM | #20 |
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I loaned my car to guy who hit a cone, left marks all along my front PPF and the OEM patch in the rear that also weren’t responding to Griot’s Track Spray, or anything else. Carefully hitting it with polishing compound using a rotary, not orbital, buffer cleaned it right up. I was told by the guy that gave me the idea that a random orbital just wouldn’t generate enough heat to do the job, but it might be worth a shot.
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