[CosmosMpower]

I use HAWK DTC 70 for slicks and DTC60 for NT01. They have really high heat ranges, good modulation and pedal feel, just enough initial bite and are a great value. I get about 8-10 days.

[bartman32]

Originally Posted by kaosHunter

My experience with the OEM pads is they overheat and drop uneven pad deposits on the disk causing shuddering. This only gets worse overtime and eventually a new disk is needed.

+1 - Did Buttonwillow without a problem but took it to Laguna Seca (Hard on brakes anyway) and torched the pads and rotors with overheating and uneven pad deposits. LOTS of shuddering. 6K miles and new pads/rotors!

[M2guru]

YMMV but just to throw my experience in this thread...I too had stock pads/rotors and after an event I got the shuddering and deposits that others speak of, but that went away after <1,000miles of driving.

[10011012]

Anyone run Hawk HPs?

Got deposits yesterday at Calabogie with the stock pads. Are they aggressive enough to clean the rotors? I use the car only for summer fun (i.e., spirited drives and track) so not too worried about noise, stop and go, winter, etc.

They're available through my favourite shop and cheap, so I thought I'd ask before going with the Pagids...

Cheers!

[Dean_Clevername]

I was talked out of the HPS by someone who knows a lot about this stuff. Said they are harder on rotors than other equivalent pads. I was never impressed with my HP Plus for Autox use, so I wasn't in a hurry to try HPS any how.

The m2 is heavy enough that I think a dedicated track pad is worthwhile. I find the stock pads to be inadequate on track. Swapped to Ferodo DS1.11 and AP R4 fluid and was really happy. But I would not use those pads on the street other than to/from the track. You might want to look at DS2500. Better than stock, but not a full track pad that will need heat to work. I found the DC2500 to work great year round even at 25-30deg F track cross events.

Regardless, you should clear the pad deposits before you swap to another pad. Essex has some great videos on this. Basically you need to nearly do a bedding procedure, but not allow the pads to come up to temp to the point of leaving a new transfer layer. Essentially you just want to scrape the old layer/deposits off. Then you can swap to new pads and bed those in. You can even use that procedure to clean and then re-bed your brakes with a fresh transfer layer before events or if they develop a judder from unevenness in the existing transfer layer.

https://www.essexparts.com/support/learning-center--faq

[iWayne]

I ran pagid RS29Ls/Castrol SRF fluid on the stock M2C brakes and they felt good. Only issue was pad knock back, especially after chicanes that required a quick tap before really getting on the brakes for full power. Annoying...

[DrKevM5]

Pagid RS29s. Hard to source right now, but they stop like the hand of God.

[aw1473]

Are people having the same issues with stock pads and the 2NH / M2C brake setup?

Also, are most people running stock pads on the rear?

Thanks

[NISFAN]

Originally Posted by aw1473

Are people having the same issues with stock pads and the 2NH / M2C brake setup?

Also, are most people running stock pads on the rear?

Thanks

Always a bad idea to mix pads unless you know what you are doing and need to correct a particular problem. Dedicated track pads have higher COF and also COF temperature curves.

[tux2005]

And temp curves for the rear brakes will be really critical if you're not running with TC fully off.

[RSXDC5]

You need the EBC RP-X race pad. High coefficient of friction, very high temp range, no squealing, slow wear rate, nice on rotors. Pairs VERY well with Girodisc 2-piece rotors

[richard in NC]

I did the Ferodo DS 2500 pads front and rear. Expensive but worked well at Barber. Also decent on street and no more noise than stock pads.

Although the real test will be Carolina Motorsport Park, which is hard on brakes.

[5.M0NSTER]

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

I use HAWK DTC 70 for slicks and DTC60 for NT01. They have really high heat ranges, good modulation and pedal feel, just enough initial bite and are a great value. I get about 8-10 days.

Have you tried DTC60s with a 200ish thread wear tire?

Thinking about using DTC60s with 285/305 Goodyear F1 Supercar 3 tires. (on a Camaro 1LE)

[Fabb]

Originally Posted by richard in NC

I did the Ferodo DS 2500 pads front and rear. Expensive but worked well at Barber. Also decent on street and no more noise than stock pads.

Although the real test will be Carolina Motorsport Park, which is hard on brakes.

I recommend against using DS2500 for brake heavy track. I melt half of my pad material after one day at laguna and it was getting really soft when heated.

Try DS1.11 or some more aggressive pads for track duty.

[Fabb]

I had good experience with DS1.11 but they were too expensive to run. I recently switched to Gloc R18 and R12 combo and had very good experience on my laguna seca track day (very brake heavy track).

[5.M0NSTER]

Originally Posted by Fabb

I had good experience with DS1.11 but they were too expensive to run. I recently switched to Gloc R18 and R12 combo and had very good experience on my laguna seca track day (very brake heavy track).

Gloc/Carbotechs are good. They don't leave uneven deposits, and have great fade resistance. But at least the R12 disappears in 4 track days when up front. Never used the 18. Curious how long they last for you.

[ABenLauda]

PFC11.

[SEAT TIME RULES]

Ferodo DS3.12's

Great feel, rotor friendly, and now my go to pad after running Carbotech's & Porterfield R4's for over 20 years. Stunning stopping power and linear thru the entire heat range...

I swap out to the 2500's for street use.

[Fabb]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

Gloc/Carbotechs are good. They don't leave uneven deposits, and have great fade resistance. But at least the R12 disappears in 4 track days when up front. Never used the 18. Curious how long they last for you.

Will report back. Only one day from that set, but r18 is supposed to have better wear and high temperature band than r12. For half price of the ds1.11, they can last 4 days only and I'm still happy about it.

[5.M0NSTER]

Originally Posted by Fabb

Will report back. Only one day from that set, but r18 is supposed to have better wear and high temperature band than r12. For half price of the ds1.11, they can last 4 days only and I'm still happy about it.

I hear ya. I ran PFC 08 and was very happy with it. After 7 days they had 60% pad remaining. And the pad never faded, was very controllable and played nice when swapping to OEM pads. PFC 11 is also a good choice with higher bite.

That said I just ordered a set of Hawk DCT60 for the Camaro. Less that $500 a set, and supposed to last 6-8 days from what I hear.

[Fabb]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

I hear ya. I ran PFC 08 and was very happy with it. After 7 days they had 60% pad remaining. And the pad never faded, was very controllable and played nice when swapping to OEM pads. PFC 11 is also a good choice with higher bite.

That said I just ordered a set of Hawk DCT60 for the Camaro. Less that $500 a set, and supposed to last 6-8 days from what I hear.

Unfortunate PFC never made anything for 2NH options. I have to work with limited choices on this one

[F87source]

Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES

Ferodo DS3.12's

Great feel, rotor friendly, and now my go to pad after running Carbotech's & Porterfield R4's for over 20 years. Stunning stopping power and linear thru the entire heat range...

I swap out to the 2500's for street use.

From what I hear those are really bitey because their coefficent of friction is so high, but yes they have fantastic linear performance throughout their heat range. It might not be the best for everyone because of how aggressive they are, so maybe a DS1.11 or DSUNO would be better, lower coefficent of friction so they don't bite as hard and offer better modulation - again good on rotors, and linear throughout their heat range.


But yeah I liked using Ferodo in the past too, really good stuff.