08-23-2016, 11:15 AM | #23 | |
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08-24-2016, 01:17 PM | #24 |
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He has 35d but also he used it on his old E46 M3.
Not a single engine issue. Anyway we tested it today, and huge difference is there believe it or not. As be both have manuals, first gear is always bit clunky until you push it into sport+ mode, but now it's bloody smooth like warm butter. We took some time and monitored oil temperature over secret menu, until it reached around 220F and then we started to push it up to 120 mph several times. The temperate stayed same even it dropped due to nice M2 cooling, but we can't tell. But what surprised us most us is that there isn't that annoying peach when on cruse control at going from 2.5k RPM up to 4k. To put it simple the engine is way quiet.... There might me some mpg improvement but we really didn't bother with that. Also previous oil that was in there was super clean! |
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09-03-2016, 01:05 PM | #26 |
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It matters for those that keep their cars and there are some. Since you appear to be one of the juveniles that doesn't care and just trades in all the time then please find a juvenile thread to crap on and not contribute one iota of information but just take a crap on it for no reason. Try sesame street.org. My 5 year old loves it!
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11-06-2016, 06:16 PM | #27 |
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Love this thread! Reminds me of my time spent back on the subbie STi forums. Man did we get into oil issues and nachob you would fit right in there- in a good way my friend. Using the right oil and changing it frequently does matter. Guy who tuned my STi gave me one piece of advice and that was to choose a high quality brand and change it frequently - every 3000-3500 miles at most which is what I have done with my STi using Motul only. Difference between 0 and 5W won't hurt you nearly as much as if you just leave it and pretend it's all gonna last forever. It won't.
What is BmW recommending for oil change intervals on the M2? |
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11-06-2016, 07:33 PM | #28 | |
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I never said don't change the oil. I believe the oil change is the cheapest insurance policy. I just don't believe it matters on the brand and where it came from and ... so long as it is LL01 and you change it frequently enough. So let the debate continue and go flame someone else. BTW my 330i which I bought new in 2005 and now has 110k has had over 25 changes. Also, btw I just changed the trans fluid for the third time on it last week. Also the lsd diff fluid for the 4th time. Before you tell me it doesn't have an LSD, I had a custom lsd built for it at about 15k. Look it up on e90post. My 99 M3 is on its second oil change since I bought it 4000 miles ago. It too has had two trans fluid changes and a diff fluid change since I bought it at 70000.
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Last edited by Pyrat 2; 11-06-2016 at 07:40 PM.. |
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11-06-2016, 07:41 PM | #29 | |
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http://www.rennology.com/site/files/...service-schedu I have no reason to believe the Condition Based Service system is insufficient. If it's non-optimal, how would person's judgement be any better? There are many Blackstone Labs reports verifying drained oil quality is good. Synthetic oil is amazing stuff. |
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11-07-2016, 11:00 AM | #30 |
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Ok, Let me explain the conclusion and add some context. I began to research oils for those that care about their cars as much as I do. I spent a lot of time studying certifications, looking for documentation. I called Shell oil since they are the new approved supplier of oil for M2 and 1M. Also BMW has released new oils. I spent time speaking with an engineer at Shell. Despite not having an M2, I have a 1M, I decided that we are the same community with the same concerns and decided to post some of what I learned on this forum. There were people with different opinions and I respect that and spent time answering their concerns. So the sole purpose of of this thread was to share good information. People added their experiences and thoughts on oils furthering the discussion. Some liked 0 weight, some didn't, etc etc. It was an honest fruitful discussion furthering the exchange of ideas.
Then you posted this: "Yep. All this back and forth on which is best doesn't make sense when the average person on this forum will dump their car in 3-5 years when the next new better car comes out or when their lease ends." You were not adding anything in good faith to the discussion. You were simply stating this whole thread is worthless and a waste of time because people don't keep their cars more than 3-5 years. You basically just took a dump on the thread and moved on. Now you post all of this stuff to prove that you do care about your car but all I had to base my response was this one act of poor judgment or incivility or whatever you want to call it that appears immature. So you might in fact really care about your car or you might be a nice person but what you did on the thread was lame in my opinion. If you want to contribute something to the discussion of oils for those of us that keep our cars more than 5 years, which my 1M is 5 years old now, you are welcome to contribute. But just saying this thread is worthless is not just lame but fails to understand others points of view that they do want to keep their cars. So I am sorry you don't understand why you got that response, I hope this helps clarify it. Best wishes. Now on to real discussion. You state again that oil doesn't matter as long as certifications are there. What you missed from the thread is that Shell is using different technology than other oils. They are making this from Natural Gas stock not petroleum stock so it is in fact different than other oils. BMW has tested Shell oils and certified them not just "OK to Use." Furthermore, they are certified for Ferrari and Maserati too. |
11-07-2016, 11:36 AM | #31 | |
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I'll let you all continue to debate the merit of this type of stuff - location, used by Ferrari... My recommendation to all on this thread remains to change frequently with approved LL01 oil as per my owners manual. It's cheap insurance. Last edited by Pyrat 2; 11-07-2016 at 02:49 PM.. |
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11-09-2016, 11:00 AM | #32 | |
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The discussion was around the merits of 0 Weights, BMW branded vs Shell, etc. All of which are approved options by BMW and for those that want a 5W-40 still made using the exact same process as BMW oil, the Penzoil Euro 5W-40. Yes, if you don't see any value in the thread LEAVE US ALONE! Why are you trolling it for no reason. That's what seems juvenile and you don't understand the discussion. Read the manual again. Let me repeat. We are evaluating all the three BMW approved and branded oil options for M2 as well as one branded differently but made by the same company in the same way. We are trying to adhere to BMWs recommendations of using their branded oil or at least one made the same way. Since there are 4 choices, hence a discussion. So please, if you don't see value, go away. We are not harming you by discussing this! |
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01-11-2017, 01:49 AM | #35 |
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Just got my break in service done. I'm in Southern California for what its worth. 5w-30.
In the summer and as all the tracks around here are in the desert, I will put in some 5w-40 myself. |
02-05-2017, 06:25 PM | #36 | ||
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OP, thank you for the insight.
Can you confirm my understanding of your message that 0w30 can be thinner than 5w30 even at its operating temperature despite of them both rated as 30, which leads to 1)less protection, 2) excessive oil consumption and 3) blow-by? If that's true, isn't 0w40 a better option (than 5w30) in both world? Quote:
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02-06-2017, 12:05 AM | #37 | ||
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Also, while both meet the minimum 30W viscocity it takes quite a bit of time for our cars to get up to operating temperature. Before they achieve the operating temperature, the OW oil is thinner. During this time you could be increasing consumption and blow-by. If you live in cold climates the benefits of 0W probably offset the negatives of a little more consumption and/or blow-by but for me in San Diego where it never gets cold, there is no real benefit to 0W and only the possible dowside of blow-by before it achieves operating temperature. Now as a matter of strictly conjecture and opinion, I do think the 0W is probably thinner overall than a 5W-30 or 10W-30 but I would defer to the oil specialists on that. Quote:
That is really what I am trying to say. 0W weights are there to increase mileage and to work in cold climates. It's a great jack-of-all-trades oil that it's hard to go wrongbut with a healthy does of skepticism look at how you drive. If you live in a hot climate and drive hard during hot days, then 0W-40 seems like the smarter choice. For me, I went with 5W-40 because it gets warm here year round and 0W only brings some possible downsides and little upside for me. Watch the Redline video, I was surprised about the part where they find some 30W oils that perform below 30W at some temperature and I believe that temperature was 10-20 degrees celcius below what my 1M registers at operating temperature. I hope it makes sense. Thank you. Last edited by nachob; 02-06-2017 at 12:10 AM.. |
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02-06-2017, 08:19 AM | #38 | |
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Thank you Nachob for the reply. I like the idea of choosing what fits best over the great jack of all trades.
However, my understanding is that 0W oil is not going to increase consumption and blow-by during warming up time because obviously that's when it's even thicker than it is at its operating temperature. I did some reading and found a point that 5w is less reliant than 0w on viscosity index improver to achieve any given operating viscosity rating, and thus is more resistant to shear damage, the culprit of permanent loss of viscosity, which is why it gives more protection in the long term. Quote:
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02-06-2017, 08:52 AM | #39 | |
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02-06-2017, 09:13 PM | #40 | ||
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This should cover basics, including the fact that motor oil always get thinner when temperature rises. Despite of being very thin, 0W is thickest at cold startup. Therefore, if oil consumption increase and blow-by ever happen, they happen at operating or higher temperature when thinned out.
http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto..._explained.htm Also see this link, great discussion on oil shear, which leads me to the theory - 5W30 is only superior to 0W30 at operating temperature because of its less reliance on VII and thus the greater resistance to shear damage. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...t&Number=83298 I quote two very informative posts from that thread as below: Quote:
Quote:
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02-10-2017, 06:39 PM | #41 |
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Belgian Castrol?
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02-11-2017, 02:56 AM | #42 |
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02-11-2017, 05:23 AM | #43 |
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Here in Europe they put this (part 83212365925):
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04-13-2017, 08:11 AM | #44 |
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First break in
At dealer now for first break in was told 0W-30. Interesting enough is that they don't have liter bottles of the 0-30 so they sold me the 5W-30 .....
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